Author Topic: '78 750K first project by a car guy... (Read 34409 times)

cbxr750 · « **Reply #100 on:** February 12, 2016, 11:35:55 AM »

Very clean and simple build. Looks great! keep it up!

therobbstory · « **Reply #101 on:** February 12, 2016, 12:48:38 PM »

Stellar thread! I've got the same bike. Wondering if you plan on holding onto that stock seat. If not, I'd like to take it off your hands. Shoot me a PM if you're interested in selling.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #102 on:** February 12, 2016, 03:46:21 PM »

You may want to ditch those black shock guards. It will require some disassembly, but they look much cleaner without them.

RandyBMC · « **Reply #103 on:** February 12, 2016, 05:48:01 PM »

I don't know man, I kinda like them. It makes the chrome springs a little more subtle. I completely dissassembled the stock shocks to see if they could be saved (they couldn't due to rust on the shafts). Maybe down the road I'll pull these apart too and see if I like the cover-less look.

Stev-o · « **Reply #104 on:** February 19, 2016, 09:16:26 PM »

Looking great Randy, excellent update. Best way to clean carbs is will an ultrasonic cleaner.

RandyBMC · « **Reply #105 on:** February 21, 2016, 03:21:41 PM »

Work continues...

I chopped the rear fender liner so I can use it, then mounted it by drilling a hole on each side of the metal bracket on the triangle frame rail and used button head stainless steel allens to retain it. It works well and looks pretty clean I think.

Horn mounted and wired, but that clutch cable is just not going to work. I am ordering a shorter one from 4 into 1.

Grips, controls and brake mounted.

Front wheel, fender, brake mounted up, chain hung, rear brake stay and rod mounted and adjusted. Wiring continues...

I tapped the front bucket so I can do the wiring. I also got HondaMan's start saver relay and fuse block. BEAUTIFUL! Mounting the battery box with the new equipment and the oil tank next. It is a lot of fun seeing it all come together!!

RandyBMC · « **Reply #106 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:55:21 AM »

Battery box is in and all wired. I had to lower the rear of the box a bit by just trimming the metal sleeve in the rubber mount by a couple of millimeters to keep the seat from touching it. Easy.

I also rebuilt the passenger foot pegs and mounted those.

Then I did a little mocking up. Still more wiring to go for the headlight bucket and the rear signals/brake light.

Stev-o · « **Reply #107 on:** February 22, 2016, 08:29:17 AM »

Nothing like nice , clean wiring, great job Randy. I need to convert my K4's fuseblock.

What is the plan for paint?

RandyBMC · « **Reply #108 on:** February 22, 2016, 08:42:44 AM »

Thanks!

I'm leaning toward a Toyota light grey from an FJ Cruiser then the stripe on the tank in either a bright blue or a black. Then pinstripe the super sport style stripe in gold or silver. This is the color for the tank and side covers:

Not my truck, just a Google search for the color. I'm still not positive on which way I'm going to go.

Stev-o · « **Reply #109 on:** February 22, 2016, 09:31:33 PM »

Its very hard picking a color....guess that's why I have 3 blue bikes in the garage!

RandyBMC · « **Reply #110 on:** March 03, 2016, 06:52:18 AM »

I'm trying to finish up the wiring now. I have seen the fix to make the Dime City speedo turn signal indicator work with a two into one diode. I can't find one. I do see diodes, and I will admit my ignorance in not knowing which ones I would need to make a two into one (soldering together at one end).

Here's a page of diodes - any suggestions?

https://www.radioshack.com/apps/search-results#stq=diode&stp=1&facets%5Bshopify%5D%5B%5D=product_type

Thanks!

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #111 on:** March 03, 2016, 11:23:58 AM »

You can use 2 separate diodes without issue. There just a one way "valve" for electricity that only let current go one direction.

RandyBMC · « **Reply #112 on:** March 05, 2016, 08:19:49 AM »

I have two wire turn signal units too. I'm just wondering about the amp and voltage I need for the diode - refer to the link at Radio Shack I posted above.

I got my APE pods and have been working on the vent lines so I can mount the oil tank. I have a '78 manufactured after December '77, so my air separator has an inlet on the side for the valve cover, an outlet on the top to the air box (which I don't have), and an outlet with the clear "L" to the drain line on the bottom. Can I just leave the top line of the separator open to vent to atmosphere? I worry about there not being suction created by the air box. Would it be better just to vent the valve cover to a "draft line" drain at the side of the bike?

I also have a '78 style oil tank, which only has a vent for the tank at the bottom that goes to the crankcase vent barb, so that's pretty straightforward.

Where does the fuel tank vent go? I've looked through the manual and can't see it (and I didn't have one when I got the bike). Just down and out between the swingarm and frame (by the overflow tubes for the carb)?

Thanks for the help!!!

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #113 on:** March 05, 2016, 01:26:59 PM »

You will need at least 3 watt diodes to be safe. I'm an overkill kinda guy and would use 6 watt diodes, there kinda the standard in auto wiring.

My separator has been eliminated and the valve cover and tank vent to a generic aftermarket M/C chrome vent filter. But then it wasn't hooked up when I got it either, it was missing A LOT of parts when I got it and it barely ran...but it had its 4 into 4 pipes! I can tell you that it had a molded vent tube that hooked around the swingarm on the brake side that vented to open air. That was all that was left of my system.

And that's not a tank vent, its a spill tube and I'm not sure where it exactly goes. Just make sure it has an easy path to the ground and away from really hot things incase it gets used.

martin99 · « **Reply #114 on:** March 05, 2016, 04:29:08 PM »

Quote from: RandyBMC on March 03, 2016, 06:52:18 AM

I'm trying to finish up the wiring now. I have seen the fix to make the Dime City speedo turn signal indicator work with a two into one diode. I can't find one. I do see diodes, and I will admit my ignorance in not knowing which ones I would need to make a two into one (soldering together at one end).

Here's a page of diodes - any suggestions?

https://www.radioshack.com/apps/search-results#stq=diode&stp=1&facets%5Bshopify%5D%5B%5D=product_type

Thanks!

I've just done this on my SRX. I used two 3 amp 50v diodes. Actually, the voltage doesn't really matter, as long as it's enough to cope with a 12v system there's no upper limit really.

Easy to do, but if I lived in the US I would have made my life even easier by just springing for this - for the price, just not worth messing about-

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-accessories/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/

RandyBMC · « **Reply #115 on:** March 05, 2016, 08:03:43 PM »

Thanks man - that's perfect!

RandyBMC · « **Reply #116 on:** April 07, 2016, 09:22:34 AM »

I got the Yuasa sealed battery yesterday, and after some yard work for my wife, I plan on finishing up wiring today.

I have a question on the starter solenoid. From the pics above and the one I'm posting on this, do I have it right? I wired it based on what o could figure out from the manual.

Battery hot and wire harness plug to the forward terminal on the solenoid. (Green/red solenoid wire)
Starter cable to the rear side of the terminal. (Yellow/red solenoid wire)

Thanks!

RandyBMC · « **Reply #117 on:** April 12, 2016, 07:11:51 AM »

It is hard to see from the photo, but they are backwards. The harness to the plug for the fuse and the battery hot are on the rear and the starter is on the front post of the solenoid. See the factory diagram below:

SKTP · « **Reply #118 on:** April 12, 2016, 11:08:23 AM »

looks great...I need to update my electronic and fuses

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #119 on:** April 12, 2016, 01:09:01 PM »

If you update to a blade style fuse block, get one with a couple of extra channels, so you can carry some spare fuses.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #120 on:** April 13, 2016, 06:57:44 AM »

Quote from: RandyBMC on February 22, 2016, 07:55:21 AM

Looks rad, but is it just me or is the front tire super close to the fender here?

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #121 on:** April 13, 2016, 09:28:47 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on April 13, 2016, 06:57:44 AM

Quote from: RandyBMC on February 22, 2016, 07:55:21 AM

Looks rad, but is it just me or is the front tire super close to the fender here?

Yes, it is. Be sure to check the brake line bracket. I've had that bracket rub a tire that had a lot more clearance....

martin99 · « **Reply #122 on:** April 13, 2016, 11:21:00 AM »

Now I get the BMC part of your name - you've nicked one of our Minis!

Flared arches, strap holding down the bonnet - guessing there's a nice motor in there?

RandyBMC · « **Reply #123 on:** April 20, 2016, 05:58:29 PM »

Yep - it is a 1275 with a ported head, roller 1.5 ratio rockers, a long branch header, etc. I use it as my mostly daily driver (not the last few days here in Houston - need more of a boat!). I've been a Mini guy for years and years.

I am a little worried about the fender clearance too. At rest just rolling it, there are no issues, but obviously that may change with centripetal force during rotation at higher speeds. Waiting for some testing. The photo does make it look even closer though.

I got some project work done finally (been working a lot, which has interfered with my CB time). I finished up the wiring, including my DCC gauges. I used noob's guide, but I used he Br/W wire instead of black to supply power (stock switched hot from what I read on the wiring diagram). I also finished up all of the stock harness wiring. I am pretty happy with how it all came out. The fuseblock I got from Hondaman does have three extra fuses (one each).

I also got the tank and oil lines all mounted up.

I also decided to go a different way then I originally planned with the license plate/taillight. I welded up a bracket for both. I measured it about six hundred different ways using string and calipers. I am digging the way it turned out.

It has an angle that gives it a bit of a rear fender look, with plenty of clearance.

Now on to the carbs, ugh. Worried about these! I rebuilt triple throat Webers back in the day, so I'm hoping that may give a similar enough skill set to tackle the PD42As...

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #124 on:** April 21, 2016, 07:10:09 AM »

Sweet. Will serve as a fender for you.

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Author Topic: '78 750K first project by a car guy... (Read 34409 times)