Author Topic: 1973 CB350F Build Log -- First Bike -- FINALLY FINISHED!!! (Read 16920 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #50 on:** June 10, 2015, 10:05:42 am »

The matte paint on the frame is nice. That shock is shot. I would just buy a set of Hagons for it.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #51 on:** June 10, 2015, 11:33:29 am »

Would these work?

http://4into1.com/emgo-all-black-shorty-shocks-eye-to-clevis-290mm-11-4/?page_context=search&faceted_search=0 They are an inch shorter than stock.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #52 on:** June 10, 2015, 12:14:24 pm »

Quote from: GizmoDuck on June 10, 2015, 11:33:29 am

Would these work? They are an inch shorter than stock.

For unknown reasons, you picture is not coming through on my browser. The image link is for an Emgo shorty shock. The Emgo stuff is cheap but I would not use their shocks. If you have stringent budget issues, look at the Hagons or even the Progressive shocks. A shorty shock will also disturb the handling of the bike.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #53 on:** June 10, 2015, 01:16:59 pm »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 10, 2015, 12:14:24 pm

The Emgo stuff is cheap but I would not use their shocks. If you have stringent budget issues, look at the Hagons or even the Progressive shocks. A shorty shock will also disturb the handling of the bike.

Thanks! Where would you recommend buying Hagons from?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #54 on:** June 10, 2015, 02:46:02 pm »

You can buy them direct from Hagon. They are located in San Diego, CA. 760-798-8015
http://hagonshocksusa.com/

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #55 on:** June 13, 2015, 01:54:44 pm »

Got almost all of my new parts, still need brake lines and throttle cables, and going to start putting it back together. Planning to lay my engine sideways and slide the frame over it bot it on, put forks on, pop the center standout the swing arm and wheel on. Then everything else. Anyone got a better way of putting a motor in a newly painted frame that will reduce the risk of scratches and be kind to my back.

calj737 · « **Reply #56 on:** June 13, 2015, 02:38:18 pm »

Hire 3 burly men? I think your method works like a charm, actually. Apply some blue painters tape to the frame while you wriggle the motor in to protect the paint.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #57 on:** June 16, 2015, 12:14:10 pm »

Painted almost everything that needed it

Motor back in the frame

Now to buy a few more pieces and put it all back together.

calj737 · « **Reply #58 on:** June 16, 2015, 12:17:55 pm »

before you strap all that back together, make sure you have bare metal or the battery ground to the frame, and between the motor and the frame. It does make a difference in your electrical system and charging.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #59 on:** June 16, 2015, 12:34:29 pm »

At every bolt or just a few?

calj737 · « **Reply #60 on:** June 16, 2015, 03:54:49 pm »

Just for the NEG strap. On the 550/750 the NEG gets pinched between the mount, frame and motor. Not 100% on yours, but if so, clean to bare metal that lug on the motor, and the mount.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #61 on:** June 17, 2015, 06:49:06 am »

Yeah it is the same setup. Thanks for the reminder I would have missed that.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #62 on:** June 19, 2015, 04:52:11 pm »

Gas tank stripped and coated in rust neutralizer

All cleaned up

Caswell liner curing

New All Balls roller bearing races installed

Installing bearings

Put old bearing race on the new bearings, placed a 1 1/4" galvanized pipe on top of that and hammered away on a piece of oak to press new bearings into place

Removed logos to sand and paint side covers. Found CB350F shocks on eBay for $20, cut down spring guard, and painted the springs. Should have plastic dipped them but I didn't want to drive to the hardware store.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #63 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:47:09 am »

Pic updates

Cleaning rust off wheels

Cleaned out

Primed and painted

Tires

Sanding everything down for paint

New drum brakes

Replacing sprocket

Were these supposed to come out with sprocket?

Next up: wheel bearings, front brakes, swingarm, shocks, then putting wheels back on.

calj737 · « **Reply #64 on:** June 30, 2015, 09:52:20 am »

Spokes look a little battered up from rust. No plan to replace them?

Also, be sure to leave a bare metal "ring" around the top of the filler cap. That prevents the fuel from seeping under the paint and lifting it off as it comes down the filler neck. I generally tape off about 1/4" from the top, then sand it to fully bare. Spray from there down to the tank body.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #65 on:** June 30, 2015, 10:27:19 am »

If you are not going to replace the spokes, you may want to remove the oxidation with scotchbrite pads and steel wool, and then clear coat them for protection. This assumes that the oxidation is only superficial.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #66 on:** July 02, 2015, 10:26:57 am »

Thanks guys! I am planning on keeping the spokes for now. Will scrub them down and clear them!

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #67 on:** July 04, 2015, 08:37:04 pm »

Replaced the wheel bearings and almost finished up with the wheels

Removed the bearings out using a concrete anchor

Front wheel bearings removed wedging two screwdrivers and the bolt from the anchor I used to do the rear wheel

Improvised tool for retainer ring

This works too but resulted in some blood blisters when it slipped

Front done

Rear bearings out

Done

Now to rebuild the front brake, fork seals, shocks, swing arm, and put the wheels back on

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #68 on:** July 09, 2015, 01:46:53 pm »

Rear wheel done

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #69 on:** July 14, 2015, 10:05:36 am »

Finally Got the forks apart. After several recommendations I went and got a $20 torch and had those stuck bolts out in no time. Had to get them fairly hot but it worked!

One more coat of primer needed before final wet sand and topcoat

calj737 · « **Reply #70 on:** July 14, 2015, 10:41:17 am »

Make sure to re-anneal the washer before reinstalling that bottom bolt. It is required to prevent leakage

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #71 on:** July 14, 2015, 11:07:35 am »

How did that old fork oil smell? Probably the nastiest smell ever out of my motorcycle.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #72 on:** July 15, 2015, 09:43:33 am »

Quote from: calj737 on July 14, 2015, 10:41:17 am

Make sure to re-anneal the washer before reinstalling that bottom bolt. It is required to prevent leakage

So heat it up and cool it down in water?

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on July 14, 2015, 11:07:35 am

How did that old fork oil smell? Probably the nastiest smell ever out of my motorcycle.

HA! With my allergies I couldn't smell a thing but my kids both said "that smells like poop" dropped their screwdrivers and ran inside LOL

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #73 on:** July 15, 2015, 11:49:23 am »

That's about right. It's weird how oil can take on that smell.

GizmoDuck · « **Reply #74 on:** July 20, 2015, 03:20:47 pm »

Painted side covers and tank. First, is a good shot of the tanks lines and second is a shot that shows off the metal flake.

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Author Topic: 1973 CB350F Build Log -- First Bike -- FINALLY FINISHED!!! (Read 16920 times)