Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 64564 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #350 on:** March 23, 2017, 05:53:48 PM »

I think you can even polish the spokes on the steel and then clear coat them. I believe Larry Cargill on the CX/GL forum has done so. I know he has polished the lips to mirror brilliance and the edges of reverse comstars and then protected from rust with a clear coat. I will have to try and search for that or ask Larry to direct me to a thread where he shows that. Polished steel can look pretty good too. Vapor blasting is another means but I have some rust on the spokes of mine, or orange dirt between...not sure but I was thinking it was a steel spoke, not aluminum. Would make far more sense to be aluminum for weight concerns....not that they are light wheels.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #351 on:** March 24, 2017, 04:26:29 AM »

I polished the lips on mine (wow that sound weird). They are steel spokes, well at least mine are. I think in later years they made some in aluminum. I wish mine were aluminum because yes they are heavy, surprisingly so.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #352 on:** March 24, 2017, 10:08:36 AM »

A shop in Tucson where I had my cx500 tires mounted and balanced had some unique comstars with snowflake rib spokes and were said to be racing mods popular back in the day. They were ultra light.
I never looked into it
There are a few mods now for comstar for spoked wheels when dealing with shaft drive.
We complain our choices are limited! Nothing like a shaft drive comstar is...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #353 on:** March 24, 2017, 10:32:40 AM »

Quote from: RAF122S on March 24, 2017, 10:08:36 AM

A shop in Tucson where I had my cx500 tires mounted and balanced had some unique comstars with snowflake rib spokes and were said to be racing mods popular back in the day. They were ultra light.
I never looked into it
There are a few mods now for comstar for spoked wheels when dealing with shaft drive.
We complain our choices are limited! Nothing like a shaft drive comstar is...

I've seen snowflake wheels and Henry Abe's but I haven't seen Comstars modified to accept snowflake spokes. The ultra light aspect is cool.

Harsh · « **Reply #354 on:** March 25, 2017, 09:57:23 AM »

Picked up my wheels this morning. Then I had to attach the kickstand and figure out how to get the bike off of the work bench. Lifting it off was out of the question, at least with the wife helping. So I engineered a solution. Hooked my chain fall to the rafters and hoisted it up, swung it out, and set it on my chair. From there I put the wheels on.

They see me rollin, they see me hatin...

540nova · « **Reply #355 on:** March 25, 2017, 10:02:30 AM »

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #356 on:** March 25, 2017, 06:25:53 PM »

Looking excellent.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #357 on:** March 26, 2017, 02:05:50 AM »

Nice! I like the look.

That is some meat on that back tire. How is the clearance in the rear? I hope it stays on the positive side after adding weight of seat, other gear and rider.

Looking forward to the reveal of the tank and what you and she decided on that front.

I should have suggested you look at the legshield badge on a C70 Passport. There is one that has Honda Wing with circle but it is not a circle medallion as the circle is interrupted on both sides with Honda... the wing is either silver or gold as is the letters, don't recall without looking it up again. Or, it could be done by a vinyl sign shop for putting beneath the clearcoat, which I hope is a urethane for gas resistance/longevity. I know an artist/vinyl sign specialist near Albuquerque how does fabulous work and paint masks or the decals in thin 3M vinyl or other appropriate uv stable outdoor vinyl would probably be around $20 and shipping. Callie Graphics, Callie does fantastic work and she is very quick.
David

with some work to mirror the wing this could be done in paint or could

RAFster122s · « **Reply #358 on:** March 27, 2017, 02:11:31 AM »

The 78CX used Steel Spokes, they are the std Comstar and the '79 started using the reverse Comstar wheels. Larry mentions in this How to Polish Aluminum tutorial (EXCELLENT how too with some great techniques and tips... Like how to strip the anodized finish off your controls to polish them. Super Clean, by Castrol does the job...then buff the black/grey dull coat to bring them up to high luster as shown in the link below. Larry has a great tip on how to get into narrow grooves too!)

Harsh · « **Reply #359 on:** March 27, 2017, 04:52:03 AM »

It is pretty much a stock size rear tire. Well as close as you can get converting to metric sizing. There is a lot of clearance. I was worried a bit once I put the tail light assembly on which holds the license plate. It looked like it might be a bit close. However, I hopped up and down with everything I had to compress the rear end and the plate never gets closer than 2" inches to the rear tire. Add in that I have the shocks at their lowest setting so when I adjust them to raise the back end some I will gain a little more clearance. This is without a doubt the smoothest rolling bike I have. When pushing it around it feels like it just floats.

However, I ran into a huge issue yesterday. I started hooking up all of the wiring yesterday and adapting the controls I am going to use to attach to the stock wiring. I was mostly done when I came to a show stopper. When I dropped in the battery I noticed the problem. I can't get the seat on with the battery in. The bracket I welded in to anchor the front of the seat sits just in front of the battery. With the battery installed I need about an inch of clearance for the seat to be able to slide in. After a lot of thought I think I can get a smaller than stock size battery. I currently have a Scorpion YT12C (180cca, 12a/h). I looked at the lithium batteries, but great googly moogly are they expensive. So I started looking for a smaller dimensioned AGM battery. I found a Scorpion YT9C (130cca, 9 a/h) that should give me 1/16" of clearance at the top. I will have to cut off the upper front piece of the battery box so that I can attach the ground wire to the battery, but I can live with that. I will be running an LED headlight that uses 19 amps less than the stocker, no turn signals, and all other lighting is LED so I think I should be good with the a/h rating.

The icing on the cake yesterday was that none of the wiring works. I have power at the connector in the headlight bucket, but nothing turns on. Not a light, horn...nothing. So I think I have a ground issue somewhere.

calj737 · « **Reply #360 on:** March 27, 2017, 05:12:06 AM »

Make sure your ground wires hit bare metal, Harsh. If necessary, use some rivet nut inserts into the backbone to get a solid bare metal contact that won't rust. You can buy aluminum inserts and use steel/stainless screws for great results.

Harsh · « **Reply #361 on:** March 27, 2017, 05:18:04 AM »

Yah I know. I just need to go back through everything and see what/where it is missing. I am just starting to feel the pressure of getting it done so I can take it with me to Deal's Gap the first week in June.

calj737 · « **Reply #362 on:** March 27, 2017, 07:20:10 AM »

Plenty of time

Harsh · « **Reply #363 on:** March 27, 2017, 01:19:18 PM »

One step closer. Found a ground that wasn't connected. Only one tiny light came on though so it looks like I still have some work ahead of me. I think I am going to disconnect everything and hook them up one at a time to see what is going on. I have a feeling something in the right control pod isn't correct.

540nova · « **Reply #364 on:** March 27, 2017, 03:38:10 PM »

If you do not go the rivnut way, just grind away some paint around your ground and slather liberally with conductive grease.

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Harsh · « **Reply #365 on:** March 27, 2017, 04:57:15 PM »

Yah I got the remove the paint stuff. My issue was I didn't connect the ground wire that runs from the center of the frame to the headlight bucket.

Decided to disconnect everything and go through the complete hook up again vice one part at a time. Finding the missing ground had a lot to do with the decision. This time the headlight came on and so did the speedo gauge light, but that was it. Noticed a couple of wires (brown and brown with a white tracer) that weren't hooked up. The brown needs a jumper to power to turn on the tail light. The brown with white tracer needs a jumper to power to turn on the tach gauge light.

A quick thumb of the starter button only caused the headlight to dim.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #366 on:** March 27, 2017, 09:43:19 PM »

Bench test the solenoid with a 12V battery. The C70 Passport (70CC step-through Honda MC) has instructions on disassembly, clean, and reassembly and they never have a problem again. Often bench testing or operating the solenoid can get them working properly after having sat for a while.

Have you looked at your ignition switch to test the black coming out of the switch to see your battery voltage is not dropping more than an acceptable amount through the switch? They can be a pita.

Have you disassembled and serviced the controls yet? (Disassemble in a large clear plastic bag that is taped closed around your wrists... It can save you searching and never finding a spring or tiny ball bearing used by the switch. )

You almost need a large plastic box like a blast cabinet to catch parts like this...with a set of gloves that give you a little tactile feel or you could have cloth sleeves on the container that you tape to a pair of latex disposable gloves you slipped on or cut the fingers off after putting on or before putting on. Or just a good set of elastic cuffs on the cloth sleeves to allow you to have full dexterity with your hands.

I saw a small paint booth or blast booth made from a large plastic storage container where they put a clear glass window in it with a light installed to light the mini "cabinet".
You could fab up something like this. Put it on a tilt so any small parts tend to end up in the bottom corner and you can see through the window easier. The openings for your gloves or cloth sleeves to allow your arms to work inside the container without a lot of difficulty . This can mean using a bigger container than you would think, or larger openings to allow your arms to handle more positions.
For mini blast cabinets you install filtered air openings and fans to move air through the cabinet to clear the dust that accumulates blocking your vision. For the mini blast cabinets you also need to accommodate replacement clear panels, sometimes a sheet of glass is better than plastic because of static electricity.
With your compressor setup you can run a full sized blast cabinet non stop. That is something to envy by many.
Good luck sorting electrical mess out, just like troubleshooting stuff in the Navy, one step at a time and you will isolate it to the problem. Spot blasters are really nice for fixing nicks and scratches for auto body stuff (it is tough to make those repairs blended in but cutting the problem back to bare metal on deep scratches back to the metal.) That would work great for blasting away the powder coat for your grounds. Also, your motor mount bolts will form a ground path for your motor.

Doesn't dielectric grease block air and prevent corrosion but allow the electrical connection to be made where it squeezes out the dielectric grease or wipes away the grease on a electrical disconnect.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #367 on:** March 28, 2017, 05:09:57 AM »

Testing the solenoid, starter motor, and ignition switch are on today agenda. I will look up that link today and see what it shows about taking it apart.

I am not running stock controls. I have a set from a GSXR. I may try and get a set from a Triumph Daytona like I have on my CB750. They seem to have less wires and take up less real estate on the bars.

My grounds are now good.

That is pretty much the premise behind dielectric grease.

Harsh · « **Reply #368 on:** March 28, 2017, 03:06:15 PM »

Well it couldn't be something easy.

With the ignition switch off and the run switch off a subsequent shorting of the solenoid turns the starter motor. Not good.
The switched power wire (black) at the solenoid gets power when the ignition switch is turned on.
With the solenoid disconnected and the black and yellow/red hooked up to a battery the solenoid clicks what I feel is pretty strongly.

I am going to say that the solenoid it good and that I missed wired something when adapting the GSXR controls.

I think it has something to do with yellow/red wire in the bike. In stock form that completes a ground when the starter button is depressed. I am almost positive the GSXR controls use the starter button to route power and not a ground.

Jumpered the yellow/red at the headlight bucket to ground. As soon as the ignition switch is turned to on the bike tries to crank. Which simulated the stock starter button being depressed.

Not sure what else to try other than trying to get a set of Triumph controls since I was able to get those to work on the 750 with virtually no issues. Plus they aren't nearly as bulky so they would look better.

calj737 · « **Reply #369 on:** March 28, 2017, 04:34:34 PM »

Locate the Y/R "entering" the RH control and attach it to a separate ground. Make sure that the Y/R "exiting" the START button then matches to your stock harness.

If you are unsure what wire color on the GSXR controls is the "inbound" side of the START button, use your meter and check continuity between all the pairs. you should only get that TONE when START is pressed.

Make sense?

And by the way, it is something easy, you just haven't found it yet

RAFster122s · « **Reply #370 on:** March 28, 2017, 09:59:39 PM »

At least you don't have magic smoke wafting about...that can get expensive.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #371 on:** March 31, 2017, 06:06:39 AM »

The problem with the GSXR controls is that they jumper the incoming power to a number of the connection points internally of the housing. I have tried everything except opening up the controls and cutting wires to get them to work. So I have decided to ditch the GSXR controls and put on some from a Triumph. I figure I can follow the wiring connections I did on my bike and it should work. If not I am not sure what I will do. I just have to order more bullet connector pins since I used most of mine on the GSXR wires.

The new clutch and throttle cables arrived and they look pretty good. The clutch cable was billed as being 1" shorter than stock. However, it is the same exact length as my stock cable. I think I have to either modify or get a new throttle housing. There is a lip on the inside that prevents it from closing completely around the bar. The bar is your standard 7/8" and that is what the throttle housing is supposed to be for. Completely over torqued there is still a gap on each side of the housing.

All I know is that I am ready to get this thing fired up. It is driving me crazy just having it sit there.

I am having a hell of a time trying to match the color of the powder coat to a color in paint so I can print out the tank emblem/figure. As soon as I get the color matched I can give the parts to the painter. If I can't get the color to match I guess I will have to get him to paint it, which will cost a bit more.

540nova · « **Reply #372 on:** March 31, 2017, 06:46:53 AM »

Harsh, I may be interested in the GSXR controls if you want to sell them.

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palepainter · « **Reply #373 on:** March 31, 2017, 07:32:07 AM »

That bike is looking great. Really like how well the comstars look on it. Being a painter myself. That color would be a breeze to match. Start with white, add Iron Oxide, and some yellow. Small amounts until you get it. Maybe a few drops of trans black. But any painter with a mixing bank should be able to get that with in a half hour time.

Harsh · « **Reply #374 on:** March 31, 2017, 07:40:28 AM »

We can probably work something out nova.

The paint I am referring to is the program. I print my decals on waterslide paper.

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Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 64564 times)