Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter

[Harsh]

My Autozone, Advance, O'reilly's all sell it.  You might try going to their websites and input your zip code and see if they have it in stock before driving around town.  The VHT Universal Aluminum color code is SP127 which is what I have used in the past.  I would do a search for that on their websites and let it tell me what they have or don't have.

[grcamna2]

My Autozone, Advance, O'reilly's all sell it.  You might try going to their websites and input your zip code and see if they have it in stock before driving around town.  The VHT Universal Aluminum color code is SP127 which is what I have used in the past.  I would do a search for that on their websites and let it tell me what they have or don't have.

I'll try the Autozone in the next town over.That VHT #SP127,is it a good(close?) match for the oem Honda silver? Do you have any cans laying around that tell you what working temp it's good for ? I think the area around the exh. fins can get pretty hot..

[Harsh]

Look at the pics I included a couple of posts back.  That is the SP127.  I think it is fairly close to the oem Honda silver.  I do have a can of it at the house I can look and see what it says, but it might not say anything different than what they say online.

[grcamna2]

I think you may be right about the clear being what 'yellows';I found the VHT silver paint at the Autozone(just called to confirm)in Murrysville,PA. and I also looked online and it says "550 degrees" and doesn't mention 500 degrees 'intermittently' like the Duplicolor Engine enamel #DE1615 says on their cans so I would imagine the VHT will withstand up to a true 500+ degrees.
I also looked at your build CB750 'Navy Style' restore and checked out some shots that could have been after a few miles of riding and the black paint on the head around the exh. ports(is that VHT black?)where you nicely polished the ends of each fin does still look good. 
How does that Bosch headlight shine for you? Does it accept a LED H4 headlight bulb ?

[Harsh]

The black on both engines is VHT's GM satin black.  I have seen no color change on either engine and they are both holding up well. 

The Bosch headlight as it sits right now is blah.  I need to go back and do the relay mod to it.  I didn't think about doing it when I built it.  That should bring the light to acceptable standards.  Or I can just put an LED bulb in there and see how that works.  It does accept an H4 bulb.  I have an extra glass since when I bought it there was a buy one get on free deal.

[grcamna2]

The black on both engines is VHT's GM satin black.  I have seen no color change on either engine and they are both holding up well. 

The Bosch headlight as it sits right now is blah.  I need to go back and do the relay mod to it.  I didn't think about doing it when I built it.  That should bring the light to acceptable standards.  Or I can just put an LED bulb in there and see how that works.  It does accept an H4 bulb.  I have an extra glass since when I bought it there was a buy one get on free deal.

That Bosch headlight lense,is that for 'motorcycle' specifically? I bought a Made in India AutoPal headlight lense that is originally designed/refracted for automotive w/ the European type of lense pattern w/ an H4 bulb and it does better on low beam than on high.The quality of it is not as good as a Bosch as far as the glass and the mirror reflective surface.

[Harsh]

It is not a motorcycle lense.  I think I got it from bus depot.

[grcamna2]

It is not a motorcycle lense.  I think I got it from bus depot.

That looks like a quality lense.

[Harsh]

What a mad dash rush of a day.  While the temperature is warm the skies are overcast and threatening of rain.  I felt a couple of sprinkles when I was setting up the table, but nothing afterwards.  Needless to say I was in a rush to get the painting done before the rain moves in.

All primed




And painted

[RAFster122s]

Very nice...now some air dry and then to the oven curing...
congrats on the great results.  We finally have been getting some good rain.  I hope the Gatlinburg area did as well.  Death toll at 4 so far...
David

[Harsh]

Unfortunately Gatlinburg has already been gutted and the death toll...well it simply sucks.

Ahh yah oven curing.  The wife needs to go away for a day or so.

[grcamna2]

That was VHT silver you used ? looks Good 

[Harsh]

Yep, universal silver.

[grcamna2]

Yep, universal silver.

#SP127? has a real good mettalic shine to it too

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

No doubt.  Motor looks pretty, Harsh.

[Harsh]

Stopped by a cerakote shop today.  He wants $70 to do the headers.  I think that is fair.  I was also able to look at some of his powder coat chips and I think the color I was looking at to do the frame in will work nicely.

Spent a little time this afternoon putting the lower half of the engine together.

With the guts in it.




Case halves assembled.

[RAFster122s]

I agree, $70 sounds like a good deal.  Is that inside and out? Paint came out nice. There is a chance in long range forecast for some snow here next Friday...but, that is out there a ways and subject to change.

Are you having and dry film coating work allong with hi temp coatings for piston tops/ skirts and head combustion chamber?

Granted she probably won't have the bike for 20 years but if it is a beneficial thing to do to prolong the life of the build and keep heat in check.  It reduces wear as well...
 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

$70 is a solid deal, if it's for the outside -- and a great deal if it includes coating the inside.

[RAFster122s]

If I recall a figure I think someone had quoted a inside & outside coating job was in the $200 to 250 range .  Problem coating used pipes is cleaning them as the internals gets lots of build up over time.  It can and does pollute the cleaning solution, as a result lots of shops won't touch it.

I think Cal has a guy who does a set for him in the 200 end of the spectrum for inside and out.  Given the cost of $70 I am betting that is Cerakote on outside alone.  Or the guy is former Navy and knows Harsh is retired Navy...

David

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Still not a bad deal if only for the outside, but I think coating the inside is the most important unless the pipes are mild steel (then both).

[Harsh]

Just the outside is getting done.  They are the stock pipes.



Does anyone know if the sleeves in the third picture above of the two outer two cylinder studs are necessary/required for anything?  One of mine has gone missing.  I remember when it came off, but have no idea where I put it.  I don't want to finish assembling the engine only to have an issue later down the road.  I have read that it is just there as a damper, but haven't found anything conclusive.  The front studs do not have any oil going through them.





And I just love complete gasket/seal/o-ring kits that say every thing needed for a complete rebuild.  I decided to go through the rest of the engine and install the seals and o-rings.  I found  10 o-rings that are not in the kit.  Thankfully none of them will hold me up, but it is frustrating none-the-less.


Moving on.  Installed the valves in the head.  What a pain that always is.  My spring compressor is just ever so shy in compressing the springs enough to easily insert the keepers.  I got them in and gave them a few whacks with the rubber mallet to ensure they were fully seated.  I also checked the piston ring gaps, installed the rings, and put the pistons on the connecting rods.

[Harsh]

I received some confirmation that the missing piece on the engine stud is only there to quell some vibrations.  So I set forth last night to assemble more of the engine.  I am changing out the stock cam chain tensioner wheels for a set of picked up from a guy in Poland.  He makes a metal gear wheel to replace the stock smaller rubber wheel.  Somehow when I was futilely attempting to drive out the center rivet I managed to bugger up the whole thing.  So now I am in the hunt for a replacement.  I can still continue to assemble all the stuff that goes on the sides of the engine, but what a disappointment.

[JustDennis]

Following your build. I just got a 73 cb350 four and am interested in changes the front brake and drilling the rotor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[grcamna2]

I received some confirmation that the missing piece on the engine stud is only there to quell some vibrations.  So I set forth last night to assemble more of the engine.  I am changing out the stock cam chain tensioner wheels for a set of picked up from a guy in Poland.  He makes a metal gear wheel to replace the stock smaller rubber wheel.  Somehow when I was futilely attempting to drive out the center rivet I managed to bugger up the whole thing.  So now I am in the hunt for a replacement.  I can still continue to assemble all the stuff that goes on the sides of the engine, but what a disappointment.

I received your PM Harsh and went out this morning took a ride out into the country to my storage to get that one for you that you asked me for,still haven't heard from you. 

[RAFster122s]

Harsh,  I am not familiar with the 350 tensioner system.  Driving the rivet out of the old tensioner you damaged the wheel's carrier?  I am not clear where the rivetwas and am guessing it is part of a tensioner that would hold the new metal gear.

No fun.

Hope it isn't much trouble getting a replacement.

David