Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 63669 times)

Harsh · « **Reply #200 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:05:32 PM »

The gauge overlays were delivered today and I was excited to get home and put them on. They aren't the correct ones. They are for a CB350F not a CB350K.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #201 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:26:44 PM »

If you put the speedo drive against the painted rotor carrier is it going to detract much from the lines given it is at the end of the silver forks? No, go with silver. Fender, depends on your rear fender...Recognize it isn't going to be much given the bobbed tail and seat but part of it will be visible from the sides and I am betting it is going to be green. If so, then paint the front one green as well. The body will be black and green and a ton of silver up front will be distracting unless you want to draw attention to it. The caliper and caliper arm can be silver without drawing attention but an alternative is to do them in black. Just have to be more careful when bleeding as it will lift paint even if wiped off immediately. Have to wash it off with a good soap and water.

Want to make it impervious to brake fluid have them both black teflon coated to yield a matt to low gloss black finish.
My $0.05

David

RAFster122s · « **Reply #202 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:28:34 PM »

How do the 350F differ from the 350K?
David

Harsh · « **Reply #203 on:** December 22, 2016, 02:38:07 PM »

The red space on the tach starts at 10k vice 9.1k, the small lines between 0 and 10 mph aren't on the F gauge, and the MPH is right above the trip meter on the F gauge. All of those things I was willing to not be concerned with. The problem is the slightly different location for the trip meter. The F gauge is 1/8" higher (more towards center) than the K.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #204 on:** December 22, 2016, 06:02:11 PM »

Ugh, hopefully the place you got them from will send you the right ones allowing some delay in return of the other so they ship now...

David

Harsh · « **Reply #205 on:** December 23, 2016, 12:10:19 PM »

Yah not going to happen. They never specified which bike they were for, they just said 71-72 CB350 models. They can get out of it because they stated to look at the parts closely for physical condition. Unfortunately, you can't tell 1/8" difference when looking at a photo. Although, I am not sure if the trip meter is actually in a different location between the models. I think they bought them and found that out then just passed them along to the next schmuck. Not much of a loss though and a new set has been purchased.

Since I had time to spare I decided to try and polish up the jewels a bit. They amber jewel looked really bad...like someone had take sandpaper to it. I tried toothpaste, but it didn't do much of anything. So I tried some Meguire's PlastX. That stuff worked very well. It removed all of the faded crusty look and shined them up pretty well.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #206 on:** December 23, 2016, 11:49:24 PM »

If you ever take a dremel or buffer to plastic you have to go very slow as the heat will quickly distort plastic when it is buffed too fast or too hard... in case you have never messed with power tools and plastic...

Novus Heavy Scratch remover can help but it isn't overly aggressive.
2000 and higher grades of sandpaper can work to flatten it again if you hold it securely. Working in one direction across the direction of the scratch to level initially. Naturally youdon't use your fingers for backing, a block is needed.

Future floor finish can be used after you have cleaned, refinished and polished the crystals to get a nice glossy finish. It can help make some marks disappear unless you are right up on them close.
Plastic modelers will use it often. They will often use very high grades of sandpaper to remove blemishes on clear plastic parts and then restore the luster.

Harsh · « **Reply #207 on:** December 24, 2016, 06:50:46 AM »

Re Future floor finish. Are there any tricks you don't know about? I just did some reading on it and it is impressive. I might brave the last minute Christmas shoppers today and go get some.

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/future-floor-polish

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

RAFster122s · « **Reply #208 on:** December 24, 2016, 09:32:22 AM »

I do a bit of modeling, worked on old Volvos for about 25 years, and lots of other things and have a fabulous memory. It used to be a lot better...

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Festivus, or whatever you celebrate...hope it is a safe and happy time.

David

grcamna2 · « **Reply #209 on:** December 24, 2016, 12:55:38 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on December 24, 2016, 09:32:22 AM

I do a bit of modeling, worked on old Volvos for about 25 years, and lots of other things and have a fabulous memory. It used to be a lot better...

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Festivus, or whatever you celebrate...hope it is a safe and happy time.

David

Merry Christmas to you also David ! drive safe

Harsh · « **Reply #210 on:** December 31, 2016, 01:35:10 PM »

Managed to get the overlays on and cups & needles painted. The wind and cold weather were giving me fits. I ended up using my toaster oven to help dry the paint. For the white I used Rust-Oleom's gloss protective enamel. I used the engine paint for the black. The tips of the needles I used Model Master enamel in red-orange. The place where I am getting the LED's for the back lighting don't have any in stock. They were supposed to come in yesterday, but that has been pushed back to the end of next week. If I had those I would be able to assemble the gauges.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #211 on:** December 31, 2016, 02:51:45 PM »

Dang, Harsh. Those gauges look professional. Outstanding work!!!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #212 on:** December 31, 2016, 03:52:55 PM »

Beautiful.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #213 on:** January 01, 2017, 03:09:33 AM »

Dang Harsh! That is all by hand? You have a very steady hand and consistent. I have an exttra set of Halos, very bright LED halo rings. They are blindingly bright outside the gauge housing. White led...
what are you planning to use?

Harsh · « **Reply #214 on:** January 01, 2017, 08:01:10 AM »

I used halos on my 750. They light up the gauges very well, but I don't really care for the bright spots each LED creates. Plus there are issues wit the halos fitting in the gauges due to the light tubes for the indicators that are in the face of the tach. I am getting the LED's from Super Bright LED's. The set I am going to use are completely encapsulated in rubber. Looking at the pictures it looks like it should eliminate the bright spots allowing for a more even glow.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/side-emitting/waterproof-led-light-bar-33ft-1m-super-flexible-led-bar-with-30-smdsft-5mm-through-hole-led/123/544/

RAFster122s · « **Reply #215 on:** January 01, 2017, 09:38:37 AM »

Hope thos give you what you want...having a toggle switch with in line resistor on voltage source to lower the voltage to them can dim them for you at night.
Often they can be just too bright at night. With the white painted face you should have a more even lighting.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #216 on:** January 12, 2017, 04:10:44 PM »

The weather caused some delays in receiving a few parts, but I finally got them. Back lighting for the gauges is wired up, siliconed in place, and working. I had to hold the housing to eliminate the light leaks, but I think the light is even with no hot spots.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #217 on:** January 12, 2017, 04:20:09 PM »

That's pretty damn bright!

calj737 · « **Reply #218 on:** January 12, 2017, 04:20:33 PM »

Luscious!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #219 on:** January 12, 2017, 07:05:19 PM »

Harsh, that came out really nice. Congrats on a successful install. How are the neutral and oil light jewels lit up with the backlight also lit? It looks very good.

Harsh · « **Reply #220 on:** January 13, 2017, 04:37:28 AM »

Thanks all.

The neutral and oil lights have their own BA9s socket LED's that will light them.

For the backlight I used a Waterproof LED Light Bar - 3'3" Super Flexible LED Bar with 30 SMDs/ft. - 5-mm Through Hole LED from superbrightLEDs. You can cut them to length in 3 LED segments. For this application I used 24 LED's per gauge. I chose the cool 6000K color, but if you like the warmer light they have that as well. You can also get it in a few different colors if that if your thing.

I wired them to a Mating Miniature Bayonet BA9s Base. That allows me to put them on and remove them from the wiring harness easily. I just cut off the connector at the end and soldered the wires from the light strip to the base.

Harsh · « **Reply #221 on:** January 15, 2017, 11:23:59 AM »

Stripped the paint off the tank and have the inside soaking in some phosphoric acid to get rid of the rust. Trying to decide what I want to do with the lip that normally holds the chrome strip at the bottom. I am not going to put a new strip on and I don't want the lip just sticking out.

Received a rusty kick start lever that I didn't mid cutting up. Took some flat stock, cut a circle to act as a cap, and welded it onto the kick start lever. I only welded half way around the cap so that the pinch bolt will still work. Still need to do a little fine tuning to the grinding so that it is even all around, but this should give a pretty good idea of the end product.

Harsh · « **Reply #222 on:** January 16, 2017, 07:37:49 AM »

Thinking about cutting/grinding off the lip and tabs on the tank that is typically covered by the chrome strip. I will not be putting a chrome strip on this bike and I feel the tank just looks unfinished with the lip there. I can have my painter fill in the seam, but there is still the spot at the front and rear of the tank where there isn't a lip which just stands out to me.

calj737 · « **Reply #223 on:** January 16, 2017, 08:39:36 AM »

When you remove that lip, you'll discover some rust hidden under there too. Good time to remedy that. Never been a fan of "lippy" tanks, kids or wives.

Harsh · « **Reply #224 on:** January 16, 2017, 12:53:40 PM »

Got rid of the lip. It was a little bit of work because I was going slow so as not to cut into the tank. Put some more phosphoric acid in the tank so it could continue doing its work to the rust. That is when I noticed a pin hole on one side. Hit is real quick with the welder and all was good. There was a bunch of rust underneath the lip just like you said Cal. The wire wheel took care of. That is when I noticed about 5 pinholes on the other side. I guess I know why the tank was lined before I got it. So I guess I get to line this tank.

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Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 63669 times)