Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 64902 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #375 on:** April 18, 2017, 02:20:05 AM »

Hope it works as designed...frustrating when things show up as defective/broken/bent after you put time, money, parts in them. Guess that is why it is recommended to get the bike riding then teardown for cosmetic or engine work after you get an idea of what it needs.

Stuck clutches are frustrating things to deal with when a bike has sat...sometimes it can be broken free and sometimes it is signs of problems.

The old style sliding lever in the throttle tube can be a real pain to get working smoothly againif something is warped/bent/ twisted, etc... can be a pain to get it operating smoothly without replacing parts. So, sometimes progress in the form of a new model is in a forward direction...othertimes...it is a step backwards. Cb550 cam cover for 74-76 was a step back because cb500 had rocker shafts that were not free to spin like the early 550.
Other examples are out there for cars and motorcycles of many designs and makes.
Some stuff like starters doesn't require updates as there are easily perfectly fine and do the job easily.
CX 500 bikes started with a stator and chain tensioner and ignition system that proved to be problematic in the bike. The tensioner problem became known by owners and the ignition system ended up replaced by a TI system...tensioners breaking became a checklist item and was bumped up on the inspection list by owners and service shops be they dealer or other shops.

So, how is the tank design coming along and that paint work?

Hoping for the best on the starter test.

Btw, i will pull up the link to opfar's page he did some mods on the starter to make it more effective on the cx650 as they often have starter issues because the beasts are more power hungry than the cx500 motor.
The plate holding brushes has three contact points for the plate to the end cap...when they build resistance from time, carbon, etc thhis needs a little tlc

There is an amazon seller who sells the kit for $13, another sohc4 er shaded the link... i have it in my bookmarks on my pc, not this tablet.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #376 on:** April 18, 2017, 04:22:20 AM »

I am hoping for the best as well. The splined end was very difficult to turn by hand, but I attributed that to the gear end being packed with new grease. The main thing that has me a bit worried is in the video I posted there didn't appear to be a lot of torque. There could be, but it didn't really look like it.

Tank design is complete and the parts are at the painter right now. They are working on the tank first so they can get it back to me so I can do my part with the graphics then give it back to them to complete.

I did a search for opfar, but didn't really find anything. I took some steel wool to the plate end and end cap to clean them up so they would have a good contact point.

Harsh · « **Reply #377 on:** April 18, 2017, 01:52:59 PM »

Well the starter rebuild seems to have worked. The bike turns over like it is trying to start. Now to figure out why the left carb drips from the overflow tube. I hope the brass stand pipe doesn't have a hairline crack in it.

Harsh · « **Reply #378 on:** April 18, 2017, 02:07:59 PM »

AND SHE STARTS AND RUNS!!!!

It only took about 5 seconds of cranking and she turned over and ran without any input from the throttle. The idle is high and the choke didn't have any effect, but she runs and all of that can be adjusted.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #379 on:** April 18, 2017, 03:00:50 PM »

Quote from: Harsh on April 18, 2017, 02:07:59 PM

AND SHE STARTS AND RUNS!!!!

It only took about 5 seconds of cranking and she turned over and ran without any input from the throttle. The idle is high and the choke didn't have any effect, but she runs and all of that can be adjusted.

Fantastic!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #380 on:** April 19, 2017, 02:51:06 AM »

great news on both achievements...

Harsh · « **Reply #381 on:** April 20, 2017, 04:35:10 AM »

Figured out why the left carb is leaking out of the overflow tube. There is a tiny hole in the stand off pipe. The hole is so small I can't even see it even with a magnifying glass. I had to blow red food coloring through the rubber overflow tube to even see where it was.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #382 on:** April 20, 2017, 08:30:06 AM »

I had a teeny tiny crack in one pipe on my '77 550. I ended up sealing it with JB Weld. That took care of the problem, but I didn't hold on to the bike long enough to see if it is a good long-term solution.

You could probably solder it up without much difficulty too.

Harsh · « **Reply #383 on:** April 25, 2017, 05:01:29 PM »

I ended up soldering the tube. It held water overnight so I am calling it a win.

Unfortunately, the fight continues.
I printed and cut out the tank logos, but when I went to apply them to the tank I had bits of white around the edges and it looked like crap. Printed two more sets and cut them out. While they weren't as bad as the first set they still looked like crap. I think I am going to have to call a buddy that owns a decal shop locally and see if he can print them on vinyl for me. They will be thicker which will leave a raised bump at the edges once they are clear coated over, but I really don't have much of a choice other than having them painted on. Which at this point, since the tank is already painted, might prove to be a bit difficult and would certainly cost me a chuck more money. I really need to get them on today so I can get the tank back to my painter because he is going out of town on Thursday.

A little teaser pic. It turned out a touch darker than I wanted, but I think it still looks pretty good.

Met with my buddy after work and he made me some vinyl decals. I managed to get them on the tank and pretty damn even. Since I couldn't get the tank to the painter before they closed for the day so I am going to have the wife take the tank to the painter tomorrow morning so he can clear coat it.

Lostboy Steve · « **Reply #384 on:** April 25, 2017, 07:37:55 PM »

Another great color choice. That bike is going to look amazing!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #385 on:** April 26, 2017, 03:58:43 AM »

You're a good dude and dad, Harsh. I like that color a lot and I'm sure your daughter is going to be thrilled.
It's one thing to have a bike; quite another to have a bike that you and your dad lovingly built. Very cool.

Ron

Harsh · « **Reply #386 on:** April 27, 2017, 04:41:52 AM »

She is a runner again. This is straight out of the box starting with no choke. The only thing I have adjusted are the idle screws. Air fuel screws are at 1 turn out and I haven't even touched the timing. Hopefully I will be able to get to that today. She is getting closer. I am supposed to pick up the rest of the painted parts today.

https://youtu.be/GtGS99_7q-Q

Harsh · « **Reply #387 on:** April 27, 2017, 04:51:00 PM »

Frustrating afternoon. I get everything together to set the timing. Fire up the bike and as expected the timing is off. I adjust the plate and get the left side adjusted in spec. The bike starts to idle a bit high so I adjust the idle screws a tiny bit to get it back down into the proper range. Go to check the right side and it is off the oposite direction as the left side. So that means the individual board(s) needs to be adjusted. Turn the bike off and loosen the screws. Fire it back up, but now the idle won't hold. It will stay at 1700, but if I adjust it ever so slightly to drop the idle it will get to 1000 hold there for a few seconds then drop and kill the engine unless I give it some throttle.

From here on out it doesn't matter what I do the idle or timing is off for both cylinders. Try and give it throttle and it bogs a bit and once I get it to 4000 or 5000 it won't hold and drops down and I can see a bit of smoke coming from the right exhaust. I also noticed the left exhaust isn't as hot as the right. I presume it is a carb issue, but what I don't know if it is an air leak or something within the carb.

And the icing on th cake...I messed up the front fender. I was looking for a bolt on one end of the work bench and I guess I bumped it enough that it caused the fender to fall off. It has to be repainted.

Harsh · « **Reply #388 on:** April 28, 2017, 10:04:13 AM »

So two things I think I may have found.

First: Somehow the choke got moved during my adjustments from being completely open to closed. I am sure that had something to do with the issues with idling and not wanting to run well at higher RPM's. The only thing I can think of is that the lead from the battery to the timing gun grabbed it and moved it.

Second: I noticed that the plastic piece on the left carb on the throttle arm moves about 1/8" in and out. I think the felt washer that is supposed to be behind it is no longer there. That felt washer, when oiled, stops air from entering at the throttle arm causing a vacuum leak. I usually don't pull that arm out since it is a royal pain in the ass. So I guess the carbs will be coming off again and will be opened up a bit to check and see if the felt washer is in there.

Not my pic, but it shows how the plastic piece (yellowish piece) could move in and out if the felt washer isn't there or has deteriorated to the point of being virtually non existent like in this pic.

Harsh · « **Reply #389 on:** May 01, 2017, 05:15:15 AM »

Noticed a slight oil leak yesterday from the left side engine cover. It has been on and off a few times when I was messing with the starter so it doesn't really surprise me. So it looks like I get to pull the cover off again to replace it. I guess when I get home today I will pull the carbs and start taking them apart to oil the felt washers and re-adjust everything to get them back to a good starting point for tuning.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #390 on:** May 01, 2017, 07:07:19 AM »

Not sure if they have the felt washer at the dealer, sometimes they are hard to get. Randakk's carries them for the GL and CX bikes and may have ones to fit the 350/450/550/750...
Wouldn't hurt to call if you can't find them locally...or order through the dealer.
Other option for the felt washer is to buy some hard felt at McMaster Carr and punch your own...

Bike's bits are looking good. Some nice work you are putting in on your daughter's bike.
Lovingly built by dad!
What brand of points are you using. Hopefully not Daichi...

So, is the son going to want one next?

David

Harsh · « **Reply #391 on:** May 01, 2017, 07:13:35 AM »

I have read a few posts about making your own and very recently noticed Randakk's site has them. I found one other place, but forgot to write down or save the link.

No points. I use a Pamco electronic ignition.

I doubt the boy will want one. He just isn't into any of this stuff. Hell, he is about to turn 17 and has no desire to even drive. He has a permit, but no license and hasn't spent one second behind the wheel of a car. I think mom is going to force him to learn to drive this summer so she can stop playing taxi.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #392 on:** May 01, 2017, 11:55:41 AM »

http://ofapars-.webs.com/footerin.htm

Here's the starter info I owed you weeks ago...
He's a character...check out the CX-periment...bold move and he likes it, so that's all that matters.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #393 on:** May 01, 2017, 04:33:17 PM »

Thanks for the link David. I will read through it tonight.

Took the carbs apart to oil the felt washers. They were dry as a bone and soaked up a fair bit more gear oil than I thought they would. Carbs are back on, adjusted evenly, and synced.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #394 on:** May 02, 2017, 11:14:57 PM »

Good news on the carb synchronization went well...I bet you are looking forward to this one opening up on the road. You book hotels or rent a cabin for your visit at the Dragon? A bunch of properties around Gatlinburg (north and W of Dragon a bit) were destroyed in the fire at Gatlinburg several months ago...was awful. There is a great moonshine distillery in Gatlinburg that others have reported their Salted Caramel shine to be very very nice... They have a bunch of flavors and are pretty well ranked in competitions of various shine makers. There are a few distilleries in Gatlinburg actually. The shine business being legal here in TN and in NC now, for those who go through the legal process to make it a legit business, as a result of some law changes. Federal law on moonshine production being fairly involved...location, equipment, etc. etc.
I guess shine is now the hipster or whatever trendy name they are calling those whom have created the demand for it since craft beers are so prevalent, they are trying to cut into an untapped market to make more money. For now, shine can be that avenue.

David

Harsh · « **Reply #395 on:** May 03, 2017, 03:44:20 AM »

I have a cabin at Fontana Village Resort. I have stayed other places in the area, but the amenities provided there are just to damn hard to pass up. I am really looking forward to getting this bike on the road. It has been fighting me for a while and I am ready to kick it in the ass and show it who is boss. Hopefully the next attempt at tuning goes a lot better. I still need to make a bracket to keep the kickstand from hitting the bottom of the exhaust. Hopefully the plan I have in my head will work out.

We used to brew small batches of shine when I was a kid. It was (maybe still is) legal in Texas to have a couple of gallons for personal consumption. What I have found lacking in the flavored shines is that they are flavored after the run and are almost always over done. A good flavored shine has just a hint of whatever flavor in it from the brewing process and not from cutting it with all of the "additives" post run.

Harsh · « **Reply #396 on:** May 03, 2017, 02:37:32 PM »

I don't know what the hell is going on now. Start the bike wwith no choke and it instantly jumps a bit above 3500 rpm's. Back the throttle set screws completely off (not touching) and it only drops a tiny amount. Fuel mixture screws were set at 1.25 turns out. Turn them to 1, no change. Completely loosen the throttle cables at the carbs and throttle, no change. It will rev up if I give it some throttle.

Decided to check the timing, well just because. With the plate rotated to the full retraded position and both boards moved to the full retarded position the timing marks are still showing a good 5/8" advanced.

The only thing I did was pull the throttle shafts to oil the felt washers.

I really have no clue what else to do.

Harsh · « **Reply #397 on:** May 04, 2017, 03:21:25 PM »

OK...I took everything apart tonight. Checked the butterfly plates and they look to be seating very well. Checked the cables to make sure they were seated in the plastic housing. Cleaned the mating surfaces of the carb and rubber parts. Put everything back together and gave it a go. Starts up and the idle is at 2700. I tweak on the idle set screws and get the idle down to 1100 and purring like a kitten.

Awesome, now to check the timing. Still off. Each cylinder is right at 20 degrees advanced. I don't know if the unit is bad or if there might be something off.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #398 on:** May 04, 2017, 04:08:28 PM »

May need to drop Pete a pm or email or phone call about the ignition...
was wondering if something wasn't seated right. I have seen people install throttle butterfly plates backwards and then file them to close!!! or not get them located correctly in the mouth and have them rubning on one side with air gap on other side. Crazy stuff... Ran dual SU HS6 carbs on an iron block pushrod 1.8 and then a 2.0 L motor. It was a lessen in throttle shafts that leaked and other fun with needles and springs and dampner pistons and dampner oil in those on the carbs that needed weekly or biweekly attention. The oil would get sucked out of the piston dampner pot. Used a screw on cap with a piston at end of rod and thecarb piston that was free floating was vacuum operated to control the main jet needle height. The piston had a central tube where you put the dampner oil which retarded the piston rising rate and controlled the richsetting for the carbs. Fairly simple carbs but lots of things you could vary to change fuel enrichment curve. Was fun until you were trying to start a car with those carbs in below zero weather. Solution was to run a block heater and use synthetic oil in winter in motor and gearbox.
Movers lost a spare gearbox I had, didn't realize until years later as it was wrapped up in plastic and they off loaded everything into a storage unit when they moved me to AZ. Some of those boxes didn't get opened and gone through until 8 years later.

Sorry for side track...

Glad you were able to get them sorted...I had not seen your question. Makes me wonder if it had an air leak or something was hung up....

David

Harsh · « **Reply #399 on:** May 06, 2017, 07:45:19 AM »

Before I call Pete I need to verify if the unit is bad. I can swap the points back in and try and time the bike that way. I have the points and the mechanical advancer, but I don't have a set of condensers. OR I can pull the PAMCO out of the wife's bike and install it on this bike and see what happens.

I am not keen on pulling things off of a running bike, but it might be the easiest option in this case.

News:

Author Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter (Read 64902 times)