Topic: Bike painting (moved from projects)

[DarcyB]

Bike painting question; Anybody ever use VHT chassis/rollbar paint, it's supposed to be a self priming paint. Ive been using it on some pieces and it seems to chip really easily, anybody have any experience with this? Should I be using a clearcoat with this paint?

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[gto_ron]

Has all the original frame paint been removed(sandblasting, chemical stripping, etc)?

If so, is the bare frame clean (no fingerprints, etc)?

Are you're going to use rattle can spray paint?  If so, Eastwood sells a two-part epoxy primer in a rattle can.  That's your best bet for primer  If you have paint guns use any good quality epoxy primer.

I think you've found how well self-priming paint works on metal( it doesn't).

As far as the color coat, any good urethane enamel is fine and doesn't need clear coating.  It dries hard and shiny. Runs can be sanded and buffed out.


Not knowing what shape the frame is in and what paint equipment you have access to makes answering your question a little tricky.

good luck

[jamesbekman]

I used that paint on top of a self etching primer... Dont do that.  Definitely put it straight on the bare metal.  You can do a phosphoric acid metal wash first then acetone the metal and then spray it right on and it should treat you right.  I had adhesion problems spraying it over the self etching primer and ended up stripping the frame down again

[jamesbekman]

I wouldnt clear coat with a spray can unless you try  it on a test panel first to see if they are compatible first. 

The VHT roll bar/ chassis paint comes in satin and gloss black. 

I ended up doing a ppg epoxy with a hvlp spray gun on the frame after I stripped it back down to bare metal.  Long story short...  give the VHT paint a try as its a lot cheaper and A LOT less time consuming...  If it doesnt turn out the way you want you are only out like $12.

But if you are spraying over half paint, half metal, try the epoxy primer spray can out as mentioned above but make sure to sand the paint with sand paper so you get good adhesion. 

The phosphoric acid wash really does a good job at etching the metal to give a great surface for paint to stick to, but that can be achieveved with sanding the metal with 180 as well. 

Cheers,

James

[Muckinfuss]

check out these guys for bulletproof product.    http://www.kbs-coatings.com/   Several restorers of both tractors and old cars that I hang with swear by their stuff. 

not all coatings are created equal by any stretch....especially if they are in a rattle can.  The only rattle can that would provide OE type durability is the 2K urethane in a spray can from Eastwood......in my experience.

[Powderman]

if the base coat chips easily from the substrate adding a clear coat will not help it stay put.

[greenjeans]

Shocking how good good 'ol Rustoleum bare metal primer followed by Rustoleum satin black works.   I have a daily rider (although it rarely sees rain)
that has 6 years on it now.  Has held up great.  Rustoleum also makes a tractor/farm/implement that is very durable.

[rb550four]

 +1 I use Rustoleum on most of my frames, I like a spray gun and mineral spirit cut, not wild about hardeners. Holds up better than a rattle can . The only paint chipping I have encountered was when I used expensive auto paints, does'nt hold up as well as rustoleum.