Topic: new fork tubes & seals, but a problem

[Weatherman]

Per the recommendation of this group, I bought new fork tubes from Forks By Frank for my K4. I had purchased a set of OEM Honda fork seals earlier in the summer so today I set out to install them. The forks came apart with no problems, and the new tubes went right on. I got the old seals out without damaging the sliders but destroyed them in the process. Now here's when I ran into trouble. When I got out the new seals, I noticed right away they were different from what I took out. The old ones had a metallic top surface almost like a washer and were thicker. I called a shop and verified that I had the right part (I did), but they said there was a "wiper" that goes between the seal and the keeper ring. Can anyone verify this? The Honda fiche for a K4 does not show anything but the seal and ring. I'm thinking if I put in the new seals with nothing but the retainer they may not last long. Should I look for aftermarket replacements?

[bryanj]

Dont remember a change but i suspect the "wiper" is for the ones with no gaiters but only small boots.You should be ok just fitting the seal in far enough to fit the circlip

[putnaja1]

When I replaced the fork seals on my '77 550k, the seals that came out looked like the ones that went in- I used OEM replacements.  The side that goes up had writing on it.  The forks on this model year don't use gaiters, so my guess is that you may have gotten the wrong fork seals from the parts store?  Or maybe your old seals were not factory ones?

[puppytrax]

I noticed that on one of my 550 forks as well...but the Honda Fiche shows that the new part number, 91255-KBH-003 (for the later models with the short boot), has replaced the older seals with the metallic top surface. The aftermarket seals I bought ("Pyramid" brand) are also the later type...

I'll go out on a limb here and guess that the early seals (bikes with the gaiters) are single-lip seals, because the new ones all seem to be dual-lip seals (for the short boots)...   

[Bodi]

I've changed quite a few seals and never seen any "wiper", the seal goes in flat side out and the clip holds it in. The seals for gaiter and non-gaiter forks are the same.

[Ernie]

got mine from z1 not the same but fit perfectly no leaks!

[jaknight]

Hello Weatherman,

     I recently replaced the seals on my '74 cb750 K4.  As far as the single rib versus double ribbed seals.......... they are the same thing (size...), the double lipped one simply does a better job of sealing; lasts longer.

     There is no washer or spacer between the seal and your circlip or snap ring---> (which is what my K4 had).  Either the top of your old seal was incredibly worn and showing the inner retainer springs of the seal itself, which had be smashed and flattened, or someone mickey moused something into that area.

     The only place you MAY need to add anything is on the very TOP of your springs, just below the bolt cap which allows access to the inner springs and to allow the addition of oil, where you might add a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch for a stiffer spring action (but, I doubt if you will want or need to do this).  Truth is, spring fatigue is very rare on the front end of these..........

     It sounds to me like you have done nothing wrong......

     ~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

[hymodyne]

a question about forks, my 500 has gaiters that attach to the bottom of the fork ears. in my rebuild, I'm going with clip on bars, so the fork ears for the headlight mount are not being used. how can I attach my gaiters up top with the ears missing?

hym

[puppytrax]

how can I attach my gaiters up top with the ears missing?

Why not just get a pair of the shorty dust boots??? If you're using clip-ons, your tubes must be pretty good looking...show them off!!   

They're part # 51425-375-003

[Weatherman]

Thanks everyone for your input. The old seal(s), looked much like old Chevy front wheel bearing grease seals, only with two of them installed. I installed the new seal pressed in just far enough to get the clip back in. It did look a bit strange with all that open area behind it, but Honda had verified that it was the right part.

After I got them in and put the sliders on the new fork tubes, the bolts (in the bottom) wouldn't tighten up, even with the forks compressed. I took them back off and cleaned the residual fork oil from the mating surfaces using carb cleaner, put them back on, and they tightened right up. I finished putting everything back together, added fork oil, and took it for a test ride. Everything worked great. The front end was nice and firm and, after about twenty miles nothing had came loose and there was no leakage.