Topic: Idiot timing question

[diloret2]

I feel stupid for even asking this, I've searched and read the manual 50 times, but have still managed to either miss something or confuse myself.

When doing static timing on a 75 CB550F, in the service manual it says if the light comes on when the F and Timing mark line up you're good. If it needs adjustment, line up the marks and adjust the plate until the light goes out? Doesn't that contradict the first statement of if the light is on its good? I'm sure it's a fairly obvious answer, but I'm clearly missing something and have probably more thoroughly confused myself by over thinking. So if the light comes on when the F lines up with the mark, I'm good? Or do I adjust it so it goes out?

Again, sorry for the stupid question,  but I'm confused.

[Deltarider]

So if the light comes on when the F lines up with the mark, I'm good?

Yes.

[2wheels]

The F mark is when the transition happens.  That is what they are trying to say.  Maybe you are trying to be a bit to literal.

[diloret2]

So my bike was running poorly on the highway, so I assumed timing. Bought new points anyways because, well, why not. Glad I did because it ended up not being a timing issue; on the 2-3 point, the little plastic bumper thing that rides on the crank lobe was actually loose at the little rivet that attached it to the point.  So basically, it was kinda just floating and sometimes closing and sometimes open. Replaced both points, runs beautifully again! So irritating when it's something so trivial and tiny, but better than something more laborious!

[tlbranth]

Dilo - the engine turns clockwise. You want the points to just begin to open when the timing mark reaches "F". The light goes on when the points just open. Soooooo If you're at the timing mark and the light is ON already, you need to move the points clockwise, 'til the light just goes OFF. If the light is not on yet, You need to move the points counter-clockwise 'til the light just goes ON.
Both of those spots are the same. It's the transition from closed to open.

[Deltarider]

So my bike was running poorly on the highway, so I assumed timing. Bought new points anyways because, well, why not. Glad I did because it ended up not being a timing issue; on the 2-3 point, the little plastic bumper thing that rides on the crank lobe was actually loose at the little rivet that attached it to the point.  So basically, it was kinda just floating and sometimes closing and sometimes open. Replaced both points, runs beautifully again! So irritating when it's something so trivial and tiny, but better than something more laborious!

What brand breakerpoints was that?

[diloret2]

I believe they said TEC on them?

[jonda500]

I am running the cheap as piss daiichi points that come with the plate and condensers all ready to go for around $15. I have over 900 miles on them and they haven't failed yet - touchwood!

[Deltarider]

I am running the cheap as piss daiichi points that come with the plate and condensers all ready to go for around $15. I have over 900 miles on them and they haven't failed yet - touchwood!

I wouldn't be surprised if there are Daiichi breakerpoints and counterfeit Daiichi breakerpoints. Allthough I myself still run the TEC points, Daiichi points are traded here by the thousands and sofar I haven't heard/read of too many problems.

[alacrity]

Do a search about the daichi points. There are myriad complaints and problems


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[Deltarider]

Do a search about the daichi points. There are myriad complaints and problems

I know but please read what I wrote. I have the impression quite some counterfeit products reach the US market. Even in the aviation industry where every part has it's number and is documented counterfeit products nevertheless are marketed. In this forum I remember having read about counterfeit NGK sparkplugs. Haven't heard of those here. Again Daiichi breakerpoints are traded by practically all SOHC parts traders here. I just wonder. I myself have nothing to complain about my TEC points so I stick with them.