Author Topic: CB550 Rebuilt Top End - Alloy Swingarm - Custom Wiring Harness (Read 7288 times)

Stilltime · « **Reply #25 on:** July 22, 2015, 06:16:14 AM »

Fuse block has 6 terminals. Terminal 1 is red straight through. Terminal 2-6 is jumpered with the stamped steel bridges with the purple into terminal 2, and each of my fused hot circuits out from those. Headlight/gauges terminal 2 out, taillight/accy terminal 3 out, start/brake switches and R/R etc, terminal 3 out.

I jumpered the terminal 1 and 2 bypassing the ignition switch and everything came on as it should. For whatever reason, purple is not putting power out with the key on anymore... I'm 99% positive I had red power in to the ignition switch and purple power out before, so I am not sure why it's not working now.

Stilltime · « **Reply #26 on:** July 22, 2015, 02:04:56 PM »

I'm not using anything on the ignition switch except for the red and purple. I'm not using it as the actual starter, I have an aftermarket control on the handlebar for start and kill.

Stilltime · « **Reply #27 on:** July 22, 2015, 03:00:10 PM »

Yea but I'm not using either of those wires

nor do they cross to anything on the harness.

Wish I had my wiring schematic finished, but the power works fine it was just something messed up with the switch.

I'm trying to make the MotoGPWerks swingarm fit now

ran into a couple big issues with it. On one hand Chris describes it as a complete unit to directly swap over from the stock swingarm, but as soon as I ask him a question it's for racing only and he's sold 20 without any issues and that's all I get. Not to bash him, the craftsmanship is amazing, I just was hoping it fit with the stock drum brake as it was described. THAT will be the biggest hold up now unfortunately.

Stilltime · « **Reply #28 on:** July 22, 2015, 03:17:58 PM »

Key switch is not grounded. I don't believe the stock switch was grounded, correct me if I'm wrong. I've ran with this switch for ~18 months with no issues.

Here's the arm, and you can see where it has already been scratched from the brake pivot... I'm going to have to try and bend the entire unit out away from the swingarm, and shape the brake rod to fit.

The front shoulder bolt setup for the brake stay is different and will not easily accept a shoulder bolt so I'm going to drill out his front brake stay home and run a shoulder bolt with a cotter pin like the factory setup.

Stilltime · « **Reply #29 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:10:54 PM »

I had to use one washer to shim it correctly, thought I would need to so I started on the left side. Just took the washer out and moved it to the right side and it's a little better. Pivot plate is less likely to hit or rub now I just need to figure out the brake rod.

Stilltime · « **Reply #30 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:11:11 PM »

But Chris said it was designed for the stock CB550 brakes...

Stilltime · « **Reply #31 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:35:14 PM »

Good call I didn't think about it being a '78 frame... I bet that's it! I wonder if the brake guys from an earlier bike would swap over.

Stilltime · « **Reply #32 on:** July 22, 2015, 06:51:46 PM »

So this ignition switch... I must have fried it internally when I put the heat shrink on it. I bought some 6:1 heat shrink that needed a lot of high heat to shrink it, like a couple minutes with my heat gun on high, and then it retained heat for a long time. I'm wondering if there were soldered connections or an internal fuse maybe that this heat popped. I am not getting a connection from either of the power out wires. Going to order and get express shipping on another

lesson learned...

Stilltime · « **Reply #33 on:** July 22, 2015, 07:50:32 PM »

6:1 was the only option to make this look clean, but that killed the switch (I think) so I'll just use my wire braid and normal 2:1 heat shrink and stop 1/2" back or so.

Now where did I put my darn snap ring pliers... Picked up an '03 Yamaha R1 brake master cylinder (14mm piston like our stocker) and an ASV forged lever. I'm swapping over my billet reservoir but need snap ring pliers to remove the nipple.

I hate moving, I feel like I can't find 10% of my tools, and it's all the ones I need. Couldn't find my ohmmeter last night...it's probably sitting on top of the pliers haha

Stilltime · « **Reply #34 on:** July 22, 2015, 07:56:34 PM »

Wow, I LITERALLY called it. Dug around some more boxes, thought I hadn't filled this toolbox yet (was a gift earlier this year before we moved). AND my angle grinder spanner wrench is in there, tore the garage apart the other day looking for that...

Stilltime · « **Reply #35 on:** July 23, 2015, 08:04:59 AM »

Made some more progress last night...

Things left to do:
Bleed front brake
Lube the new Motion Pro cables
Wire new ignition switch
Drill out billet brake stay and mount with shoulder bolt
Mount seat, tank and side covers
Fire up and I'll probably sync the carbs again since the CB650 cam swap and changing float level from 14.5mm to 12.5mm

Stilltime · « **Reply #36 on:** July 28, 2015, 01:27:30 PM »

For anyone still watching this thread, the bike fired up last night and I took it for a quick spin. NO burning oil and NO oil leaks, I'm a happy camper. Rode in to work today and it was very nice smooth riding. Maybe it's because I haven't ridden in 6 weeks but everything about it felt smoother, the power delivery, the clutch engagement etc.

My only complaint is the brakes. Stock master cylinder piston is 14mm, I replaced it with a black Nissin lever with a 1/2" (12.7mm) master a year or two which theoretically gives a more wooden feel. Well I wanted to go back to stock size so I bought a 2003 Yamaha R1 master cylinder with a 14mm piston and put a standard length ASV C5 lever on it. Bled the crap out of the brakes, and now they engage very very soon and it is very stiff, almost no give with the lever... Feels even more "wooden" than the 1/2" MC. Is the piston diameter not everything to the feel?

greenjeans · « **Reply #37 on:** July 28, 2015, 07:02:05 PM »

Just a thought - Is your rear brake pivot/lever correct for that bike ?
I have the same swing arm on my bike, but it's a 750. The brake rod runs almost parallel with the swingarm, underneath it. Definitely does not cross over it. Could you try a brake pivot from an earlier or different model ?

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #38 on:** July 28, 2015, 07:36:14 PM »

Quote from: greenjeans on July 28, 2015, 07:02:05 PM

Just a thought - Is your rear brake pivot/lever correct for that bike ?
I have the same swing arm on my bike, but it's a 750. The brake rod runs almost parallel with the swingarm, underneath it. Definitely does not cross over it. Could you try a brake pivot from an earlier or different model ?

That pivot arm in the pic above is identical to mine for the 750, you could be onto something GJ, I'm not familiar with the 550 set up...

Stilltime · « **Reply #39 on:** July 29, 2015, 05:05:05 AM »

Interesting! I'll do some digging, I would love for the rod to run under the swingarm.

When I bought the bike ('78) it had a different (wrong) brake arm, so there is no telling what the PO did. I'll try to find one and compare. Thanks for the tip!

Stilltime · « **Reply #40 on:** July 29, 2015, 07:23:19 AM »

Well mine does look like what the parts fiche is calling for..

Stilltime · « **Reply #41 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:22:50 PM »

Well the bike is at least very rideable and the biggest annoyances are fixed. Now it's time to start my next project! Hung the first 3 of 23 lights, going with LED in our new garage.

After the lights I'll put up the shelving and some more Gladiator rack and pegboard to organize the garage and my tools.

Stilltime · « **Reply #42 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:23:55 PM »

Here's the layout for anyone interested.

Stilltime · « **Reply #43 on:** July 30, 2015, 05:12:36 AM »

Haha the wife parks in the 1-stall side. I only have one car for the 2-bay so however many more bikes I can fit in there should do the trick

Friend of mine is selling a '99 Katana 750 for $500 and I'm tempted to pick it up to toy with. Wouldn't mind a newer quicker bike that I could keep stock to ride around with the wife. The CB550 is a blast 2-up but it's a whole different bike. I don't want to say a slouch...but it's not like riding solo!

Stilltime · « **Reply #44 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:24:15 PM »

"Done" for now, I especially appreciate all your help calj! I've been enjoying riding it about every day now.

Changing the oil again this weekend then I'll really open it up. When should I plan on retorquing the head?

When I put it together I sequenced the torque in 5ft.lb increments, let it sit 24 hours, backed them all off 1/4 turn in the sequence and retorqued then. Haven't seen any head leaks yet...

Stilltime · « **Reply #45 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:26:16 PM »

An update on the lighting too, making good progress. This pic is with 1/2 of the total lights lit. I plan to finish hanging the rest tonight after the kiddo goes to bed, and hard wire them this weekend.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #46 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:31:55 PM »

An Aussie built car too I see....

Stev-o · « **Reply #47 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:50:52 PM »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on August 06, 2015, 05:31:55 PM

An Aussie built car too I see....

Nice lookin car, what is it?

Stilltime · « **Reply #48 on:** August 06, 2015, 06:05:08 PM »

You got it! Pontiac G8 GT. my 4-door grocery-getting family car

Tews19 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 06, 2015, 06:06:10 PM »

Pontiac?

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Author Topic: CB550 Rebuilt Top End - Alloy Swingarm - Custom Wiring Harness (Read 7288 times)