Topic: Let's talk clip-ons and rearsets...

[ChopSticks]

So I've been reading up with a few threads here thanks to google's advance site searching since the  internalsite search module isn't anything to rave about

A few questions since all the threads I've come across are pretty dated.

Can someone explain why there is such a high variance between pricing? I understand people will respond, "You get what you pay for," "higher quality," etc but is the higher price really worth it for these two parts?

For starters I've noticed clip ons are ranging anywhere from $20 - $180. Similar variance for rearsets going for $80 - $400! What gives for the difference? At what point does the added benefits or features no longer worth the additional costs? Diminishing returns?

I was also able to stumble across this DYI of creating your own rearsets, anyone with personal experience?

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,2894.msg47307.html#msg47307

I'd ultimately like the rearsets to be in addition to the passenger pegs and not a replacement for. I've read there's really high praise for Tarozzi rearsets but aren't mounted where the passenger pegs are? Any cheaper alternatives?

[evanphi]

Quality = cost

Do you want two of the 3 parts of the bike that connect YOU to the bike to be made of cheap melted soda cans that are poured into a mold by children in a third-world country, or do you want them cut out of a solid piece of aluminium/titanium by a CNC machine made by experienced hands who take pride in their work?

Without these parts working, all you have is your ass on a seat. No way to stop or steer the bike.

[ChopSticks]

Without these parts working, all you have is your ass on a seat. No way to stop or steer the bike.

No need when you got Jesus



No but seriously, okay great point. But at what point does it not make any sense to get the pricier option? I understand if we are comparing lowerend to top end, but let's say instead of comparing $20 clipons to $180, what about $100 to $180 range?

And I guess for discussion, anyone have first hand experience with clipon/rearsets from the lowerend that have failed them?

[turboed13b]

I have bought $20 clipons from China and they are pretty much the same as the $180. Both are cnc and feel of qaulity. I had a bike drop from the kickstand and the cheap clip on did not bend or break.

[evanphi]

Mostly the expense associated with clip ons is the actual tube/bar mount. Cast vs milled. Adjustable vs non-adjustable. If you can, find a set that meets your ergonomic preferences whether they are milled or cast and buy them.

As for rear sets, it's a bit different. Fixed vs collapsible pegs, high grade bushings, adjustable "clocking" of the actuator (allows you to position foot at preferred angle) and then of course, the sets that have hydraulic brakes as part of them. These usually are >$400 and are all high quality material, precision milled, adjustable, and include a rear MC.

Perfect answer to supplement mine.

[ChopSticks]

Mostly the expense associated with clip ons is the actual tube/bar mount. Cast vs milled. Adjustable vs non-adjustable. If you can, find a set that meets your ergonomic preferences whether they are milled or cast and buy them.

As for rear sets, it's a bit different. Fixed vs collapsible pegs, high grade bushings, adjustable "clocking" of the actuator (allows you to position foot at preferred angle) and then of course, the sets that have hydraulic brakes as part of them. These usually are >$400 and are all high quality material, precision milled, adjustable, and include a rear MC.

Is there any advantage of getting cast over milled or vice versa? (Assuming milled means it's a made from a solid block, where cast from a mold/cast?) and in regards to mill, all electrics would have to be rewired externally right?

Does anything else need to be done to the forks except for removing the headlamp ears?

Any experience with mounting rearsets on the 1 inch subframe bar?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Look into the quality of the construction and the ergos offered.  It sounds like you have not yet looked into where you want to mount your controls to optimize comfort and performance.  Start there and then source your parts.

You probably do not need to spend top dollar on clip-ons like Renthals (which include adjustment and indexed markings for matching up your bars precisely), but you can get a good-quality set of clip-ons from Vortex or Woodcraft.  If you insist on going period correct, you may decide to go with Tarozzi or Tommasellis.

[70CB750]

Mostly the expense associated with clip ons is the actual tube/bar mount. Cast vs milled. Adjustable vs non-adjustable. If you can, find a set that meets your ergonomic preferences whether they are milled or cast and buy them.

As for rear sets, it's a bit different. Fixed vs collapsible pegs, high grade bushings, adjustable "clocking" of the actuator (allows you to position foot at preferred angle) and then of course, the sets that have hydraulic brakes as part of them. These usually are >$400 and are all high quality material, precision milled, adjustable, and include a rear MC.

Is there any advantage of getting cast over milled or vice versa? (Assuming milled means it's a made from a solid block, where cast from a mold/cast?) and in regards to mill, all electrics would have to be rewired externally right?

Does anything else need to be done to the forks except for removing the headlamp ears?

Any experience with mounting rearsets on the 1 inch subframe bar?

Milled aluminum is considered stronger - the billet they start with is rolled from a block, unlike die cast piece.

Really critical aluminum parts are forged.  I would go with milled only and adjustable angles of course.

[ChopSticks]

Look into the quality of the construction and the ergos offered.  It sounds like you have not yet looked into where you want to mount your controls to optimize comfort and performance.  Start there and then source your parts.

You probably do not need to spend top dollar on clip-ons like Renthals (which include adjustment and indexed markings for matching up your bars precisely), but you can get a good-quality set of clip-ons from Vortex or Woodcraft.  If you insist on going period correct, you may decide to go with Tarozzi or Tommasellis.

Yeah since I don't know exactly where I want to mount, or how comfortable they are, I was leaning more towards the adjustable ones.

Can you elaborate further on "going period correct?" not sure what that means.

The Renthals seem to be priced similar to the tarozzi and tommasellis. Essentially I'd prefer not to spend more than $100 for bars, but again if the top end ones are really worth the increase I definitely reconsider my budget

[seanbarney41]

another big factor to think about is fitment...there are few clip-ons that will fit the cb550/750 without some modification or compromise in ergo's.  May have to clearance gas tank or steering stops as the fork tubes come very close to the stock tank.  Of course adjustability helps in this case, and added adjustment features cost more.   When it comes to rearsets, only selected cb models have totally "bolt on" options and of course these are the more expensive.  It took me literally two years to figure out and collect all the parts and pieces necessary to adapt a vintage set of rearsets to my cb750k5 when I could have just bit the bullet, paid the $400, and got a bolt on set of Tarrozi's...

[turboed13b]

All of the Chinese clip ons I have are milled you can see the milling marks still on them.

I have a set of vortex clip ons that look nearly the same so it is either the Chinese just copied it (most likely) or Vortex is just a rebrand and higher price.

I always cheap out on the clip ons because they actually look qaulity and function correctly no point in spending $100+ when you can get basically the same thing for quarter the cost.


For rear sets I use stock ones off of modern bikes like a gsxr or cbr and use frame clips. I have been riding on them for about 2 years and see no fatigue in the clips.

[ChopSticks]

Milled aluminum is considered stronger - the billet they start with is rolled from a block, unlike die cast piece.

Really critical aluminum parts are forged.  I would go with milled only and adjustable angles of course.

are there keywords I can look for? like CNC? Not sure if it's just because the sites I'm looking at but not many of them have milled/cast in the description, not sure if they are under something else?

[ChopSticks]

Period correct means clip ons from the era of your bike. If the style of your bike is semi-modern, then go with Vortex or Woodcraft. I don't like the mounting screw placements on Woodcraft personally, but they are a good product.

Ah okay that makes much more sense, yeah I'm not focused on making it historically accurate or anything. Just watched a video on the woodcraft, I initially thought when described as "adjustable" it meant then actual angle? like swivels up or down from the mount, but do they actually mean being able to adjust the bar longer or shorter and higher or lower in regards to fixed rise mounts?

[ChopSticks]

another big factor to think about is fitment...there are few clip-ons that will fit the cb550/750 without some modification or compromise in ergo's.  May have to clearance gas tank or steering stops as the fork tubes come very close to the stock tank.  Of course adjustability helps in this case, and added adjustment features cost more.   When it comes to rearsets, only selected cb models have totally "bolt on" options and of course these are the more expensive.  It took me literally two years to figure out and collect all the parts and pieces necessary to adapt a vintage set of rearsets to my cb750k5 when I could have just bit the bullet, paid the $400, and got a bolt on set of Tarrozi's...

Well in that case, any idea where I can find a list of ones that fit CB750 K4 without any modification?

As for the rearsets, are the bolt on options only bolting on to the passenger peg mounting holes? I'd really prefer to have the option for a pillion still, that's why I thought the $80 custom DIY version in the FAQ I attached was convenient

What parts were the hardest to collect for your rearsets of your k5? assuming the k5 and k4 have practically the same requirements in regards to rearsets?

[ChopSticks]

All of the Chinese clip ons I have are milled you can see the milling marks still on them.

I have a set of vortex clip ons that look nearly the same so it is either the Chinese just copied it (most likely) or Vortex is just a rebrand and higher price.

I always cheap out on the clip ons because they actually look qaulity and function correctly no point in spending $100+ when you can get basically the same thing for quarter the cost.


For rear sets I use stock ones off of modern bikes like a gsxr or cbr and use frame clips. I have been riding on them for about 2 years and see no fatigue in the clips.

Ah thanks for re-responded, forgot to reply to your initial reply. Care to direct me to the site you got your clip ons and/or rearsets?

For the clip ons did you have to mod anything?

And for the rearsets, that's what I was thinking, the frame clips are the similar to the ones referenced in the FAQ link in the original post?

Any pics?

[turboed13b]

I buy the clip ons in eBay under "35mm clip ons" direct from China is the cheapest but takes about a month to arrive.

You will have to buy new fork ears and modify the switches since the wires will now run on the outside of the bars. I just drill a big hole in the bottom of the switch and run my wires out of it.

The rear sets I just buy from friends who have wrecked bikes. Some rear seats you can't use because the peg can't be turned so when you are riding they will flip up on you. The ones that do work have the shifter lever on the peg shaft.

[turboed13b]

...Or, use modern switches/stock switches and drill the bars and run wires thru the clip ons.

That's what I was going to do at first but I keeped imagining the bar just breaking off because I compromised the bar so decided against it.

I am also using the stock clip ons which are cast so it worsened my fears.

[ChopSticks]

I buy the clip ons in eBay under "35mm clip ons" direct from China is the cheapest but takes about a month to arrive.

You will have to buy new fork ears and modify the switches since the wires will now run on the outside of the bars. I just drill a big hole in the bottom of the switch and run my wires out of it.

The rear sets I just buy from friends who have wrecked bikes. Some rear seats you can't use because the peg can't be turned so when you are riding they will flip up on you. The ones that do work have the shifter lever on the peg shaft.

Nice! Any recommendations of which ones you know work for sure? (rearset) and where did you get your frame clips? I tried searching denniskirk part no in my original post and apparently it's not a thing anymore 

[ChopSticks]

...Or, use modern switches/stock switches and drill the bars and run wires thru the clip ons.

That's what I was going to do at first but I keeped imagining the bar just breaking off because I compromised the bar so decided against it.

I am also using the stock clip ons which are cast so it worsened my fears.

Sorry, you're using the stock clip ons? or chinese aftermarkets?

[przjohn]

As an "Experienced" rider whose body no longer reacts well to clip on sessions I will leave this for those who can physically handle that position and regularly stay up past 10 PM. Low bars are more my cup of tea. The CB400F stock position fits well and for modern bikes the KTM Super Duke is Heaven, as is a Super Moto. You don't have to strain your neck and the handling is premiere.

[turboed13b]

...Or, use modern switches/stock switches and drill the bars and run wires thru the clip ons.

That's what I was going to do at first but I keeped imagining the bar just breaking off because I compromised the bar so decided against it.

I am also using the stock clip ons which are cast so it worsened my fears.

Sorry, you're using the stock clip ons? or chinese aftermarkets?

I have 5 bikes the one in the pic is using stock ones. The rest of my fleet are using China except one which is using the vortex.

[turboed13b]

As an "Experienced" rider whose body no longer reacts well to clip on sessions I will leave this for those who can physically handle that position and regularly stay up past 10 PM. Low bars are more my cup of tea. The CB400F stock position fits well and for modern bikes the KTM Super Duke is Heaven, as is a Super Moto. You don't have to strain your neck and the handling is premiere.

On a stock seat I agree clip ons are killer on my back and I am only in my mid 20's. With a lowered seat like the pic I posted it is much better.

[seanbarney41]

another big factor to think about is fitment...there are few clip-ons that will fit the cb550/750 without some modification or compromise in ergo's.  May have to clearance gas tank or steering stops as the fork tubes come very close to the stock tank.  Of course adjustability helps in this case, and added adjustment features cost more.   When it comes to rearsets, only selected cb models have totally "bolt on" options and of course these are the more expensive.  It took me literally two years to figure out and collect all the parts and pieces necessary to adapt a vintage set of rearsets to my cb750k5 when I could have just bit the bullet, paid the $400, and got a bolt on set of Tarrozi's...

Well in that case, any idea where I can find a list of ones that fit CB750 K4 without any modification?

As for the rearsets, are the bolt on options only bolting on to the passenger peg mounting holes? I'd really prefer to have the option for a pillion still, that's why I thought the $80 custom DIY version in the FAQ I attached was convenient

What parts were the hardest to collect for your rearsets of your k5? assuming the k5 and k4 have practically the same requirements in regards to rearsets?

[/quote]just check out how close your fork tubes get to the tank, so any bolts or clamps in this area are really gonna hit, that right there is gonna eliminate a good 55% of what I have seen on the market, plus any of the clip ons with the more drop down angles are gonna have to be rotated far forward for your controls to clear further back on the tank.

rearset?  No proper rearsets use the passenger peg location...for this to work you better be really tall and lanky or have a really small bike, whick a k4 750 is not.  The hard part about adapting rearsets or using something "universal" from other bikes is figuring out what you need for shift/brake linkages and then sourcing all the necessary rods and joints.  Welding and fabrication skills will be required.  My suggestion is just to cough up for the Tarozzi's.  I have not been able to find a good source for the other main bolt on option, Raask, in quite some time.  They were quite a bit cheaper (with quality to match, unfortunately) but had excellent availability for a wide variety of bikes.

[ChopSticks]

I am also using the stock clip ons which are cast so it worsened my fears.

You need only drill a 1/4" hole to fish the wires thru. You'd need to remove the connectors first, fish the wires, then re-attach the connector.

Clip ons pictured are Vortex.

alright so you drill one hole in the actual handle bars, run all the wires through, then drill a hole through the mount/fork? Not really understanding where the wires go from the handlebars..

[ChopSticks]

Well in that case, any idea where I can find a list of ones that fit CB750 K4 without any modification?

As for the rearsets, are the bolt on options only bolting on to the passenger peg mounting holes? I'd really prefer to have the option for a pillion still, that's why I thought the $80 custom DIY version in the FAQ I attached was convenient

What parts were the hardest to collect for your rearsets of your k5? assuming the k5 and k4 have practically the same requirements in regards to rearsets?

just check out how close your fork tubes get to the tank, so any bolts or clamps in this area are really gonna hit, that right there is gonna eliminate a good 55% of what I have seen on the market, plus any of the clip ons with the more drop down angles are gonna have to be rotated far forward for your controls to clear further back on the tank.

rearset?  No proper rearsets use the passenger peg location...for this to work you better be really tall and lanky or have a really small bike, whick a k4 750 is not.  The hard part about adapting rearsets or using something "universal" from other bikes is figuring out what you need for shift/brake linkages and then sourcing all the necessary rods and joints.  Welding and fabrication skills will be required.  My suggestion is just to cough up for the Tarozzi's.  I have not been able to find a good source for the other main bolt on option, Raask, in quite some time.  They were quite a bit cheaper (with quality to match, unfortunately) but had excellent availability for a wide variety of bikes.

With the adjustable ones couldn't you just readjust them accordingly?

Wait just want to confirm no proper rearsets use the passenger or don't use them so there will be a rearset AND passenger pillion? as for the brake linkage, in the original reference link


3. Purchase some smooth round rod (have to thread ends) or threaded rod ($1.57 for 3 foot piece...approx) from local hardware store to fab up the shift and rear brake linkages. I have always purchased smooth round rod, then once cut to size.....threaded the ends using a tap/die set.


guess it's not that easy?

or would these be sufficient?

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/rearsets/rearset-parts/connecting-rods-straight