Topic: I want black tappet covers....

[Scott S]

 I want black tappet covers for my STF2 project. I don't want to spend $100+ for anodized aluminum. Would powder coating hold up to R&R'ing the covers? What about just engine paint and touching them up every time?
 Maybe invest in an aluminum 17mm wrench to be more gentle on the powder coated or painted covers?

[socal1200r]

You mean like these?  I had mine powder-coated gloss black, along with the engine covers on both sides. 

[Scott S]

 Well, I have a 550 so they would have to be removed and installed with a 17mm wrench. Those would stand up because you're not really using a wrench on them.
 But...yes....sorta like that.

[chewbacca5000]

I got a powder coated rear brake that I did myself and it gets regular use by my foot and is not chipping and is holding up just fine.  Looks great.  I say go for it.

[Scott S]

 I PM'd a guy I know that does powder coating and he quoted me $75 for 8 tappet covers.  That seems high to me.

[Retro Rocket]

I PM'd a guy I know that does powder coating and he quoted me $75 for 8 tappet covers.  That seems high to me.

Scott, get them anodized mate, its usually far cheaper than powdercoating...

[Scott S]

 I'd have to see if there's anywhere near here that can do that. Or are there places I could send them?
 What if they have a little bit of normal corrosion? Just the usual stuff that would require a little work before polishing....would you have to do anything to them before anodizing?

[Retro Rocket]

I'd have to see if there's anywhere near here that can do that. Or are there places I could send them?
 What if they have a little bit of normal corrosion? Just the usual stuff that would require a little work before polishing....would you have to do anything to them before anodizing?

Just clean them up nice and smooth, not as critical as preparing for chroming but you do want them to look nice..I have some black anodized tappet covers for a 750 and they look great...

[754]

I have the wrenches, but I think powder. Has to be thin, or they will be too tight.
 It's diecast,most anodized may not want to do them, can end up blotchy.
 Very easy to paint and touch up..

[754]

I think Honda make OEM black ones..77/78F for example..

[Steve_K]

Remember, that there are soft and hard anodized methods.  The hard type would be on, for example, footpegs.  The hard cost much more, unless you are doing a bunch to get price break.  I don't know if the hard it would hold on tappet covers.
Steve

[ekpent]

Try paint, if it does not work out it is very easy to reverse and practically cost nothing. Nice new gaskets also and your good to go.

[754]

I just realized the F uses bright covers. .
I dont think hard cost a lot more, quite like the look..any anodize is like 1/3 to 1/10 the price of chrome..
The problem is this.. The material generally as a rule has a poor finish after anodizing...players do not like letting out poor examples of work.
The other is contamination..if they even think it will cause problems..they refuse the job..

I had an anodized, a block from my shop. He was difficult to get any small batch work done by..

[Muckinfuss]

the size of those parts,,,,,you could do yourself in a toaster oven.

[calj737]

You don't need to surface clean parts before anodizing, Scott. The first step in anodizing is a cleaner/etch stage. Whatever is on there, will be off. Anodizing, unlike powder or paint, is infused into the material. So it's "thinner" than a power coat by a few mils, but somewhat impregnated and can be more durable than paint. It's not more durable than powder coat, even hard anodizing.

Best to get an alloy hex wrench to deal with those tappers so they stay beautiful forever. You can get away with steel, but alloy is safer to prevent marring. I think Trad found a set online for much less than the Joker/CycleX tappets. He seemed happy with them and they were less.

[Scott S]

 I hope Trad sees this and posts up a link, then.

[calj737]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,130575.msg1675161.html#msg1675161

[Bodi]

Anodizing runs electricity through the aluminum part in an acid bath. This creates a porous aluminum oxide layer on the surface which absorbs dyes well. Whether dyed or not, the initial surface is soft and must be finished usually by immersion in boiling water for up to an hour.
This produces a hard and exceptionally consistent coloured surface on sheet stock or parts machined from billet stock. Cast alloy parts will have random metal concentration inconsistencies created during injection and cooling (unless complex and expensive casting methods are used - worthwhile for F1 engine parts but not used for Honda cases and covers). These inconsistencies cause the anodized surface's depth and porosity to vary so that the dyes don't penetrate evenly. The finished surface will be the dye colour but usually has a mottled look.
It's not a coating - it is a surface treatment. Bare aluminum has surface of aluminum oxide that forms in air seconds after machining, this is just a deeper (and potentially coloured) Al2O3 surface. Al2O3 is quite hard, anodized surface damage is usually due to the alloy below deforming. A good anodized surface is very resistant to most corrosion and solvents but should not be used in acidic or alkaline solutions.

[flybox1]

VHT Engine Enamel.
I place a thin shop rag over it for removal.   Haven't scuffed paint yet.
New o-rings keep the torque down to just past finger tight.

[Muckinfuss]

Like most DIY....the devil is in the details.  Sort of like finishing concrete, it all seems clear cut until the truck shows up and starts pushing the load down the chute.  It takes more than rubber boots and a trowel.