Topic: Any Sport Bike guys out there - Got some problems resurrecting 98 GSXR600 SRAD

[JAG]

So I pick up a 1998 GSXR600 SRAD that's had been sitting for almost 2 years.

What I know/have done:
19,907 miles
new fuel pump and assembly
Stator/rectifier plug cut and soldered (it was burnt)
Fresh oil change and filter
Carbs rebuilt
kickstand safety switch adjusted - thought the kickstand was down, and it wasn't
New battery

What's left to do:
Missing plastic pieces
radiator flush/fill
other cosmetic damage/missing parts to address.

It's hard to start cold
once it warms up idles fine (Typical, to me anyways, with carburetor engines)
If I have the bike on a rear wheel stand, I can put the bike in gear and let it go through the gears.

If the bike is on the ground, and I put it in gear the bike launches forward and dies.
To try and start it again, clutch engaged the bike lurches forward (like drags me across the yard) until starts, and takes off. It is impossible to get into neutral while on the ground. I have to put it back on a stand, clutch engaged, start it while the wheel is spinning, to get it to go back into neutral.

I have searched endlessly for other posts to point out the problem, can't seem to find anything..

Questions-

All signs, to me, lead to a gummed up clutch?

What is the normal operating temperature (in fahrenheit), it went to 200 degrees in a matter of 10 minutes, which I think is normal, given the ambient temperature outside and humidity - but I didn't want to run it too hot, and cause any internal damage.

Thank you guys for your help, I am sorry in advance if any of these topics have been covered, but I can't find any info on the forum or in the manual. Also sent this to the gixxer.com forum - but I haven't received any attention there.

JG

[Steve_K]

Does it have a hydraulic clutch?  If so, it may need to be bled, just like brakes.  If it has a cable clutch. I would do the adjustment service.  Try pulling the clutch in neutral while it is idling, that has worked before if the plates are sticking.  If you live un quiet area, bump start it and ride it with the clutch pulled in.  Do have some skill riding if you try that. 
Filling the radiator can be a pain.  fill as much as you can cold, leave the cap off and let her idle adding coolant as it needs it.  Blip the throttle to help.  As it warms up the thermostat should open to let the coolant circulate through the engine .  It is much like a car that way. Be sure the coolant tank is filled to correct level when finished.
Air-Tech Streamline will have fiberglass fairing parts.

If not clear, ask some more

Steve

[JAG]

Thanks Steve for the response.

Looks like the larger CC's 1000 and up have the hydraulic clutch system - mine is just a cable. (Looking through the manual now for adjustment procedure)

Try pulling the clutch in neutral while it is idling, that has worked before if the plates are sticking.  If you live un quiet area, bump start it and ride it with the clutch pulled in.  Do have some skill riding if you try that. 

Can you elaborate here? Sounds like it could be fun haha.. I live in the country - couple acres to work with.

The radiator had some gunk around the lid (brownish in color) I thought maybe a flush would be pertinent??..

I'm assuming motorcycle radiators are different than cars - do they require different fluid since a motorcycle probably runs hotter than a car?

[JAG]

Here is the clutch cable.
I definitely don't see much adjustment there. It's nothing like the CBs where you remove a cover and adjust to your heart is content. lol

[JAG]

There was a small lock nut at the end of adjustment bolt, buried underneath dirt and grime.

Tightening the bolt makes the clutch lever more loose, whereas loosening the bolt, makes the clutch lever more tight and have more spring. So i adjusted the bolt until the lever sprung back to a seated "home" position" after it was engaged.

I doubt that it'll have any affect on things but it's a starting point!

[Steve_K]

On the coolant,  use something that is ok in an aluminum engine.  Might need to go to a bike shop for the right stuff.
Check when filling that the thermostat opens(coolant moves).
One can use plain water to flush, but coolant is best when it is clean.  Coolant also lubes the water pump and prevents corrosion in engine parts.
 
When bike is cold use a hose and light water pressure to hose out the fins in the radiator and if the fins are bent, get a radiator comb to carefully straighten them.

If the plates are sticky, riding around with the clutch pulled in will free up the plates, old British bikes would have that problem.  It was very interesting riding in town cause it could take some time to free up.
Read the manual on clutch adjustment and check it is right.

PS riding with the plates sticking means you have to get it out of gear or hit the kill switch to stop(it can be jerky stopping)
Steve

[ekpent]

If you buy coolant you have to mix with water,use distilled water. Same for all applications, cars etc.

[JAG]

I've done a lot of research on the coolant. Seems as if I get something silica, phosphate, or borate free along with aluminum safe, any 50/50 coolant with distilled water should work fine!

Going back to the clutch issue, I believe I have found the problem.
Hopefully it's just as easy as replacing the cover. If I end up taking it apart, I might as well clean the clutch plates while I am in there - which I wanted to stay away from..

[CBJoe]

Heh...I suppose that would be a bit of a problem    Kind of crazy that it cracked like that.  Is there other damage from the bike being down?

[JAG]

No visible signs at all. Looks like the previous owner tried to adjust it - because everything he touched he never put back right - so there's 6 bolts that hold the sprocket cover on and only two holding it now.

I Tig welded it back together. But I think I'll just toss it and buy another just to be safe. I'm not sure how much "play" it had in the over all issue of the bike acting the way it does but at least it's a good starting point.