Author Topic: bad starter solenoid ? no clicking no start (Read 8413 times)

78whiteorbs · « **on:** July 22, 2015, 08:44:33 AM »

Been through some bad solenoids through the years. but they always clicked at least. Continuity tested the two wires from the starter button by disconnecting the two wires at the solenoid . One lead on one wire one lead on the other. When I hit the start button it beeps on my meter (like it should) . I can bridge the posts and it starts like it should.
Scratching my head here. If it is continuity testing good from where it leaves the solenoid to where it comes back (when I hit the button) then it should actuate the solenoid right? I am not getting any voltage on either wire coming or going either.... is this just a bad solenoid?
Got another on the way brand new. Just curious What you guys think. It is a 76 harness with a 78 motor cb750

70CB750 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 22, 2015, 09:11:16 AM »

Did you try jumpers directly from the battery to the solenoid? Easiest way to check if the solenoid works.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #2 on:** July 22, 2015, 09:56:32 AM »

Sorry pretend I am an idiot here. If you are referring to applying battery voltage directly from the battery to one of the wires then please tell me how you are meaning to do this. I had one alligator clipper on positive battery terminal and touch the other end to both (tried both)of the yellow/ red
And green/red and nothing happened. No clicking no nothing. Is that what you mean?

70CB750 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:13:53 AM »

Use two wires - one from the (+) and the otehr from the (-) on the battery and touch the solenoid low amp wires.

On the picture, these would be the two wires coming out of it, not the M6 posts.

Those two wires supply power to the electromagnet that makes the solenoid connect - aka click.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #4 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:28:56 AM »

Gotcha. Does the polarity matter ( should still work if reversed or does hot have to go to yellow and green to positive or vice versa)

If it doesn't do anything then woul db it be considered bad then .Am assume yes of course but always rather not just assume

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #5 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:33:26 AM »

Thats what happened to mine. It was toast.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:38:08 AM »

I have had three I have tried which in fact may have been from a collection of bad ones I have had from other bikes and not tossed. So I am thinking ....3. Bad ones in a row really.. bought a new one for 10 bucks that's on the way but thought the odds hi of all 3 bad. Now thinking so now if they were all old BAD ones.... I really am never gonna keep another bad one around ever agin. Straight to the garbage can it goes.

70CB750 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:43:02 AM »

Quote from: 78whiteorbs on July 22, 2015, 10:28:56 AM

Gotcha. Does the polarity matter ( should still work if reversed or does hot have to go to yellow and green to positive or vice versa)

If it doesn't do anything then woul db it be considered bad then .Am assume yes of course but always rather not just assume

Polarity is not important, should work either way.

They can be taken apart and refurbished as long as the coil is not burned.

3 bad in a row is kind odd, imho.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:46:07 AM »

Yeah , I thought about this long and hard and they I think a probable answer is they came from my horde of leftovers and where in fact bad ones from previous bikes that were replaced and not MARKED BAD.

lrutt · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2015, 11:03:19 AM »

I've repaired a few in my day. I've never replaced one I know that.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #10 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:37:26 PM »

Well suprise suprise-
Solenoid works. I jumped the wires and it turned right over so guessing something with the switch perhaps. Just weird because when I continuity test from one lead to the yellow /red and the other lead to the green/ red it does beep when I push the starter button Which would lead me believe the switch is fine. Any thoughts??

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #11 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:41:06 PM »

The voltage is flowing from one wire passing through the switch and the starter button completes the path back to the solenoid. Is this right? I have no voltage coming out of either yellow / red or green/red

Anything wrong with fashioning my own starter switch straight to the battery? Seems like the should be constant voltage to the solenoid on one wire and on the other a push button switch between the ground and the solenoid. The more I am writing my own thoughts out here the more it seems I am not getting power to the solenoid for some reason . so close...can taste it .

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #12 on:** July 22, 2015, 06:43:12 PM »

Starter safety switch? Did you pull in the clutch?

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #13 on:** July 22, 2015, 07:16:45 PM »

The elusive starter safety switch... for one I cannot find that thing anywhere. One of my clutch safety wires is disconnected er shall I say broken by the clutch perch and it is to broken too short to fix. I see the starter safety switch on the schematic but I have stared and traced the harness and cannot find such a switch anywhere. Whatever is happening it's confirmed neither the yellow/red or green/red are getting power at the bucket. Can anybody post a pic of where the starter safety switch is? Fwiw I test ran this engine before doing the frame swap and I did not have to pull in the clutch to start the engine 9nly difference is I had a different right side signal pod that got destroyed in the swap and it was replaced by an earlier type pod with the on /off light switch. Not sure how this would effect the e start though.

Need a pic like this but for a cb750 not a 550. I think mine may have been removed by a PO but I cannot find any open plugs either....
hmmm

turboed13b · « **Reply #14 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:01:22 PM »

If the clutch safety switch is broken then find the gr/r wire and attach it to ground (any green wire). This should bypass the clutch switch make sure you are in neutral before attempting to start.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #15 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:14:38 PM »

Quote from: turboed13b on July 22, 2015, 08:01:22 PM

If the clutch safety switch is broken then find the gr/r wire and attach it to ground (any green wire). This should bypass the clutch switch make sure you are in neutral before attempting to start.

I always check for neutral when starting. I even go so far as to rock the bike sometimes. About 7 years ago late one night tired and cold as heck I made the mistake of trying to jump my honda in first. Dumped the bike like a boss and ever since then always double check neutral and even pull in the clutch on some bikes out of habit. Knock on wood it's been 7 years and no operator malfunctions.

Two wires on clutch switch, a green and a green red. You saying just plug both into green then? Would that do anything g if one of the wires was broken. This bike runs and sounds so nice. It just this one little last fight and it seems to be putting up a good one. I appreciate everyone's response.

turboed13b · « **Reply #16 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:28:55 PM »

Just plug the gr/r wire into green this bypasses the switch entirely so the broken wire won't matter.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #17 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:30:08 PM »

Thanks man .Did that and still no dice.

turboed13b · « **Reply #18 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:34:07 PM »

What color wires are coming from your starter solenoid?

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #19 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:44:36 PM »

Yellow/ red and Green/ red

turboed13b · « **Reply #20 on:** July 22, 2015, 08:48:37 PM »

Alright assuming everything is original wiring wise to 76 then the y/r wire at the solenoid should have battery voltage when pushing the button and the gr/r should be ground.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #21 on:** July 22, 2015, 09:04:49 PM »

That's what I thought but no voltage to the yellow when the button is pushed. I checked the connections for any corruption etc. In the bucket and there's none. No power from the other side of the connector either . Power goes into the pod switch and the starter button is suppose to send it back to solenoid starting the bike if I am understanding the wiring diagram correctly but it is not. Simple put there is no voltage traveling through the yellow/red wire

turboed13b · « **Reply #22 on:** July 22, 2015, 09:15:19 PM »

Maybe you have the wrong right hand switch on there. Does it have kill switch and start button or kill switch, start, and headlight on/off?

70CB750 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 23, 2015, 04:22:42 AM »

IMHO the safety is only source for a trouble.

I adapted 78F harness to my build and took all the safety wires out. In simple terms:

- the starter relay low amp circuit is connected to battery (+) using a short jumper
- the other side of the starter relay low amp leads to the starter button
- when I push the starter button it closes the circuit, the relay connects and starter spins.

Simple, fool proof and easy to trace.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #24 on:** July 23, 2015, 05:17:11 AM »

Quote from: 70CB750 on July 23, 2015, 04:22:42 AM

IMHO the safety is only source for a trouble.

I adapted 78F harness to my build and took all the safety wires out. In simple terms:

- the starter relay low amp circuit is connected to battery (+) using a short jumper
- the other side of the starter relay low amp leads to the starter button
- when I push the starter button it closes the circuit, the relay connects and starter spins.

Simple, fool proof and easy to trace.

That was exactly what I was thinking of doing. I like simple :-)

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Author Topic: bad starter solenoid ? no clicking no start (Read 8413 times)