Topic: cb400f SS Triple Clamp Spray Paint Color?

[Redline it]

Looking through scores of forum answers relating to nearly exact question as this, and the answers vary to anywhere but the direct one. If anyone knows an example to follow the lines of theme, such as paint brand, that would be much appreciated.

Project: Painting CB400F SS frame and parts.

Frame and Swing Arm both blasted, sanded , washed prepped, and given 2 coats of Rusoleum Automotive Primer (flat black looking,)  topped with 2 coats of Rusoleum Engine Enamel high heat 500 deg Gloss Black (thick, no runs. 20% Orange Peel smoothed with an "in between coats pad" compared to 00 Steel Wool,) Final finish coat of the same Engine Enamel 500Degree.)

What Color (Cheap Rustoleum preferred,) to paint the triple clamps, Caliper backs? No Powder Coating future for this frame!!

The Frame and Swing Arm came out oddly very nice, from slamming the paint on, and 10 mins of smoothing and one carefully appied  thin coat of the gloss black.

Thank you!

[przjohn]

I use the Rustoleum Gloss Black Appliance paint on lots of stuff, don't be afraid of gloss on frames, brackets, and stuff, it pops. Here is a pic of my recent 400F Resto triple clamp and bar clamps using that paint, don't know how good it shows in the pic but I feel it is a better choice than Satin.

[MoMo]

either Rustoleum satin or semi-gloss for the triple clamps

[Redline it]

Thank you very much przjohn and MoMo. I got the plan now!

[Stev-o]

I only use caliper paint on the caliper.  Get it at your local auto parts store. 

[Cougars750F0]

SEM trim black is a good and will hold up. It's available in flat, semi gloss and high gloss finishes. I repainted my aluminum door handles on my van with it and after years of sun, rain and consistent use I have never had any issues with it ever you can find in a spray can at most auto paint supplier's.

[Redline it]

The caliper would be the same color, tone, tint, hue as the triple clams, right? From internet info I heard the triple clamps are not the same gloss as the frame possible to reduce night glare? They always has been slightly dull, maybe on the account of aluminum.

SEM trim black must be some bad ass paint to stay on a door handle that long!

I'm not a painter, here's the before, it sat some 30 yrs in the backyard.
Used dirt in the desert as a media for blasting. Sanded a little with down to 600 wet.
slopped 2 coats of primer, and one finish on a rainy night, in the dark.
Next day set it in the sun for 4 hrs only to find out that's NOT what is good to do.
Then sanded the orange peel off with a non steel pad and in the wind put the finish coverage of rusto..engine enamel quick and just enough to cover smooth.
I'm happy or I breathed in to much fumes.

Before any paint plans began I masked off the rear sprocket (black) chain guard on the wheel, and spray painted it with a can of black marking paint with no info on what it is acrylic or enamel etc. THAT turned out pretty good. I only did that because of the nice cb400f that I run. No primer no sanding, no masking except from a piece of cardboard to cover quite a bit of frame and cowlings!!Turned out good. 

[Cougars750F0]

Your not going to want to hear this but marking paint is not designed to last but fade and break down that's why they use it for temporarily marking things. There are a two part automotive paints that come different colors including a clear coat in spray cans that like the SEM paints can be found at auto paint suppliers for around $20.00 a can and are well worth it. They'll stand up to UV rays, gasoline, oil and grease but break fluid will dull the shine. There is a plunger on the bottom of the can that when your ready to paint you push in to break the seal separating the paint from the hardener. Some are lacquer or epoxy based it is very important that you get the correct primer for the paint also make sure you tell the supplier what you covering being metal, aluminum plastic etc. These paints are hot and will lift and peal the primer under the paint if you don't have the correct primer and you will have to remove it and start over. Aluminum requires cleaning and a etching primer to insure a good bond or it will chip off. If you don't have a access to a paint sprayer there is a small sprayer called a Perval that can be bought for less than $20.00 that you can use to mix and spray  2 part auto paints so you can get a custom color of your choice here is a link for the sprayer http://store.preval.com/?gclid=CMPH5LOm98YCFY9gfgodR-APCQ These little sprayers work good and can give you a professional looking job for a fraction of the cost. Take your time, make sure everything is clean, ask questions and you can pull of a great looking job that will last for years. Oh I almost forgot wear protective clothing and a respirator breathing epoxy paints can turn you lungs into a liquid many people have went to the hospital after having breather problems and later died there is no cure for it so don't take any chances. Happy painting

[Redline it]

Your not going to want to hear this but marking paint is not designed to last & breathing epoxy paints can turn you lungs into a liquid many people have went to the hospital after having breather problems and later died there is no cure...

Thanks, I gotta say Cougars750F0, I always find out sooner or later sometimes seconds "after" I do something that I researched to do right, that it wasn't right!! But looking on the bright side, that short lived marking paint "might" outlive my liquid lungs. And if that is the case, it was perfect paint.

The Aluminum...now ya tell me. So the top triple clamp, I noticed the bars clamp is smooth, I blasted everything "except" the aluminum, because like the paint, the media is sand from a sand wash screened pretty course, works great on steel, and guess what, yep you guessed it, I just set the tube in the bucket of sand, and blast away with no respirator nor any glasses or hearing protection. #1, I breathed that same dirt all my life running caterpillar equipment, it's not my bad hearing that I care so much about, it's the sand in my ears that I have to blow out with with compressed air 125psi. To the seriousness of it, I have 2 primer coats of the same Rustoleum Automotive Primer on that aluminum top, I only lightly sanded with wet/dry 600 prior to that. If the paint was good, even smooth, I primered over it. I was going to ask what I should do...and I just found that answer.. It's going to have to go into the observation project list, because it's not too hard to get to, if it chips. I really have no experience in painting, but I'm guessing that a heavy multiple coat of paint on smooth aluminum is even more chippible. The side stand, I painted over the rust just to see or watch it be the most durable piece I paint, because I didn't worry about it!!