Topic: cb350 four cafe

[robnola44]

got a few questions on a 1973 cb350 four that is on its way to being a cafe racer.  first, im looking for some replacement sport tires however they are all tubeless. will i need to buy a tube to put in or will the tubeless tire seat around the stock wire rim? also im looking at a few different aftermarket exhaust systems(4-1) thinking about a marving 4-1 race exhaust with uni pod air filters, what adjusments should i make to the jets? a size up perhaps? thanks

[spmc]

From what I understand spoke rims and tubeless don't mix, but some have run tubeless with success in the past. As for jetting with pods, that's an entire can of worms that you will have to look into. There are countless threads on recipes, pros and cons, and flame wars.

I've read a good starting place for pods and 4 into 1 is:
Increase main jets by 5
Increase pilots by 2.5
shim the needle up a step
and adjust the pilot screw

and work from there... not a simple one size fits all solution.

[robnola44]

thanks, any idea if shinko or kenda tires are any good?

[spmc]

They are definitely the entry level brands, but some people find them okay. For value/quality I could recommend Duro. I have used their vintage line tires on two bikes I've owned and like em okay.

[WhyNot2]

Also, just because the tire has the word "tubeless" on it, just means it can be run on a tubeless mag wheel.

Any tire can be run on a spoked rim, as long as you use an inner tube and ring.

I have heard there's a seal kit to use on spoked rims, but I wouldn't trust it.

Hell, I even remember someone had put a tube in a mag wheel with a tubeless tire.

Just my "double lincolns"

[spmc]

I'd funk upping your main jet by "5" is way too much. Typically, one size up is about right

Sorry we're talking the same thing here... if stock is 105, go up to 110, 110 go to 115. I guess by 5 could be confused as 5 sizes... my bad!

[robnola44]

Thanks for the help everybody, ill be sure to update when i get to everything

[robnola44]

another question, concerning the front forks. im not the biggest fan of the stock fork covers that are painted the bike color. can they be removed and left off the bike and if so will i need dust covers or seals? if they cannot be taken off what is a good fork conversion for a 350 four? ive heard 550 forks with the twin disk will fit but it may need different triple tress. thanks

[WhyNot2]

another question, concerning the front forks. im not the biggest fan of the stock fork covers that are painted the bike color. can they be removed and left off the bike and if so will i need dust covers or seals? if they cannot be taken off what is a good fork conversion for a 350 four? ive heard 550 forks with the twin disk will fit but it may need different triple tress. thanks

You can leave them off.

Might need to remove that silver piece to, for it to look right IMO.

Haven't really played with mine enough to know.

[Powderman]

There is a difference between tubeless tires and wheels as opposed tube type. the tubeless tire will have a bead that is smoother than a tube type, this aides in sealing that a tube tire wouldn't need. The bead on the wheels are different and specific to the type of tire recommended. Mismatched tire/wheel combo may result in poor sealing of the bead and possible flats.

[Bodi]

The wheel rim profile is quite different for tube vs tubeless tires. You can't safely use a tube rim as tubeless by sealing the spoke holes and mounting a tubeless valve, the tire might air up and hold pressure ok but can depressurize suddenly on a bump. Tube tires are definitely not recommended for tubeless rims as the tire bead is not designed for pressure sealing. Mounting a tubeless tire on a tube rim is fine using a tube but that derates the speed rating one step - a V rated tubeless tire becomes an H rated tire when installed with a tube.
The tubeless tire will be a bugger to seat on the rim compared to a tube tire, the fit is tighter. You usually need to air up to the sidewall max pressure and check that the bead line evenly follows the rim, then correct any unevenness (whacking with a mallet can help). Using tire mounting lube is best, soapy water works OK for that.

[Henning]

Have you seen this one? (Pic shamelessly grabbed from another thread.) The builder, calumjs, kept the fork shrouds as well as original tank, side covers and badges. They're what define the bike while at the same time you're in no doubt that it's a cafe. It all comes together beautifully in my opinion.

[robnola44]

so i plan to take the covers off the front forks and add gaitors and in keeping the stock tank and making a fiberglass seat, as of right now all im looking for are rear shocks

[jamesv220820]

if you are thinking about getting the marving 4-1 system, that is a great looking system! I think the marving 4-2 system looks better thou


http://www.ebay.de/itm/MARVING-4-2-Auspuff-exhaust-Honda-CB-350-Four-72-CB350F-NEW-/261648922895?hash=item3ceb7db90f

[flybox1]

AVON AM26's w tubes.
I ran these on my 350F and would highly recommend them.

Carbs. (35pilots/75mains was stock)
buy 38/40 pilots, 85/90 mains, and play with those in various combinations.
Your pods will definitely increase air flow, but the specific jetting will depend on the exhaust you buy and the back pressure it provides.
Either way, with the above jets you will be able to fine tune the mixtures with your air screw and needle clip position.

[carnivorous chicken]

CB400F fork set up is a direct swap without the fork ears/covers, but you can also run them without the fork ears/covers and with an aftermarket headlight bracket. personally, I like the fork ears myself... Switching to 550 forks will require a triple tree swap too -- fork tube diameters are 33 for 350F and 35mm for 550.

I'm a fan of the marving set ups simply because exhaust in German is "auspuff." I've run 400F exhausts on 350Fs, but it requires changing to 400F pegs, linkage and brake lever (but that also sets the pegs back about 6"s -- if you want rear sets with low bars it's a good way to do it). The bike in my photo has the stock air filter set up with 400F pipes, and didn't require rejetting. It also has run great for about 17 years like that.

I have also found that Kendas are good and reliable and inexpensive, but I'm not pushing them too far (but they'll take some tight corners...).

[robnola44]

thanks everyone for the help, just picked up avon roadriders and new bearings for the back wheel. however both of the bearings in the back wheel wont budge. i used concrete anchors to try to get them out and they still didnt move. any tips of removing the two back wheel bearings? should both bearings be pushed out from either side or should they both come out one side of the hub? THanks

[camelman]

The Avons will do you well. Regarding your pods, I recommend checking into a good set of velocity stacks that have a rear-facing filter, or better yet go with an airbox. Steel Dragon makes good airboxes for the 350f and 400f that eliminate many of the operational issues with pods and look cool. http://www.steeldragonperformance.com/air_boxes_7.html

If you are forcing your bearings, then likely something isn't disassembled correctly. What have you removed from the rear hub? Pics?