Topic: Wiring Harness Suggestions CB550 k1

[tyr]

Hey everyone,

I was just reading through a bit of the electrical FAQ, looking at some part #s and a thread on the wiring harness for these bikes, as I just acquired a 1975 CB550 K1 and it seems to make a pezo-like noise (buzz) when I turn the blinkers on (either right or left), but the running lights up front (blinkers, headlight) work, along with the brake light but the rear signals do not even turn on when the running lights are on.

I figure at this point, I've got more than one issue, as I've got the tank off, sides removed, and the headlight out and when I move the nest in the headlight, things either dim, turn off completely, etc., before going back to the normal (broken as described above) running lights. So my question is--how well do these harnesses clean up, I was reading about it in the FAQ, but if there's broken wires, etc. I'm thinking a new wiring harness may just save me a headache. However, I also do not know what that pezo-buzz is, and figure that might be something else someone knows about?

I found this: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-32100-374-000.html

which doesn't seem too unreasonable, but I'm not 100% sure it's the right part. Any help/insight would be appreciated, even it's just buy the new harness and get it over with

[flybox1]

its the turn signal buzzer.
yes, that is the correct harness part #

[tyr]

its the turn signal buzzer.
yes, that is the correct harness part #

Is it supposed to be a long, solid buzz? The turn signals never flash, I think there's a short somewhere--when you turn the signal on, the solid buzz comes on, but the light goes out. Would this be the flasher relay? If I was looking at an LED upgrade, would this be the time to do it? I finally found the thing making the noise when I was just ripping apart the whole wiring harness--got it all separated and disconnected (at least the portion that was in the headlight), going to start cleaning it and going through it as it doesn't look terrible.

[flybox1]

go thru your whole harness.  take your and shine up all connectors really well. a .22 cal bore brush works really well.
treat them with some dielectric grease before you put them back together.
Yes, LED'as are a great way to reduce the the overall requirement, but dont mess with them until you have the harness, lights and buzzers all working properly.  LED's sometimes need resistors and different flasher relays to work.  Save that task for later when you know your harness is good....

[tyr]

Awesome, thank you for the tips. Got a .22 core brush handy already, along with some smaller welding brushes that usually work well

Probably going to leave that buzzer disconnected now that I know what the heck that is...that one was throwing me for a loop!

[madmtnmotors]

As long as the P.O. hasn't chopped up the harness, which is usually apparent by the overuse of "dime store crimp connectors" and loose ends hanging out everywhere. My most recent project even had lamp cord spliced into the harness and I was able to resurrect the harness. Here are a couple tutorials I wrote up as a public service:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

[tyr]

As long as the P.O. hasn't chopped up the harness, which is usually apparent by the overuse of "dime store crimp connectors" and loose ends hanging out everywhere. My most recent project even had lamp cord spliced into the harness and I was able to resurrect the harness. Here are a couple tutorials I wrote up as a public service:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

Excellent walkthroughs, thank you for this. Took another look at it after looking through your tutorials and it makes a lot more sense now

[tyr]

Alright, so I went through the wiring harness and cleaned up all the connectors with a dremel (made things pretty quick), and I'm sort of back to square one.

However, I've studied the wiring diagrams a lot since then and I've noticed I'm missing two wires that show up in both the manual and this diagram here:

http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb550/technical_reference/WD550C.jpg

I notice in both the front right/left turn signal is also a "position" light, and has 3 wires. The return orange & blue wires from these are missing on mine and I believe these to be the culprit as to why my rear two signals are not working (no running lights/no turn signal).

Can anyone else help me out here? Everything else seems to be working (electric start, indicator lights, headlight, brake light, front turn signals)

EDIT: I also have a brown wire with no bullet connector in it, but from the diagram that seems to be right? I know the rear lights work when 12v is applied and their grounds are good as I swapped the 12v from the tail light to test them and they worked.

[calj737]

The ORANGE is left side power to the indicators front and rear. BLUE is right side. If these are not present from the handle bar switch, you won't have these functions. If they exit the switch housing, but do not terminate at the light fixture, you won't have this function.

Which is your situation?

[tyr]

The ORANGE is left side power to the indicators front and rear. BLUE is right side. If these are not present from the handle bar switch, you won't have these functions. If they exit the switch housing, but do not terminate at the light fixture, you won't have this function.

Which is your situation?

They do not terminate at the light fixture is my situation I think

Essentially I have the blue wire & orange wire from the harness (back of bike) that contain the female ends for the other 3 wires. I have 1 blue from the indicator, and 1 blue from the switch on the handle bar. Same goes for orange. I've tested these with a multimeter and they don't have any voltage--which makes sense from the wiring diagram, as I'm assuming the wire from the light fixtures are the ones that bring power to the situation.

[Gene]

I had a situation on my bike where the PO had removed a fairing, wired correctly for blinkers, and replaced said blinkers with a single-filament unit.  Left the unattached wires just hanging there. Until I got the correct dual-filament part (on ebay) I could not get the blinkers to work. 

35 bucks solved all the problems.  Trust the wiring diagram and follow it to the letter.

[calj737]

Power comes from the handle bar switch and is sent to the fixtures. The Br/WHT brings the power to the switch, then it's jumpered over internally at the switch to ORANGE and BLUE. Does your instrument cluster blink when the indicator is active? It gets a feed from the indicator connection.

[tyr]

Power comes from the handle bar switch and is sent to the fixtures. The Br/WHT brings the power to the switch, then it's jumpered over internally at the switch to ORANGE and BLUE. Does your instrument cluster blink when the indicator is active? It gets a feed from the indicator connection.

I'll check with a multimeter again but I'm pretty sure I was not getting power from the handlebar switch on the orange/blue lines. The two front signals are getting power, though, as they get power from the blue/white and orange/white wires I'm pretty sure...and my guess is that the 3rd wire that is supposed to be coming off those 2 fronts (dual filament vs single like the last person said) is what goes to the orange and blue couplers and feeds power to the rears.

I already went ahead and ordered a few parts to just save my sanity, which is kind of what I tend to do anyway with older things as I do not mind making them brand new again. I've got a new flasher relay, regulator/rectifier, and dual filament turn signals on the way and I'll go from there.

Thanks again for all the help fellas.

[tyr]

Alright, so after chasing some ghosts, meeting up with Scooby Doo and the gang, I think I've at least isolated the problem a bit.

Seems to be a short, I've disconnected everything except the starter magnetic switch and I'm still getting 12v with the ground (from multimeter) on the positive battery cable and the positive (from multimeter) on the positive battery post.



Basically just want a sanity check; if I'm getting a ground off that wire the green arrow is pointing to, that's my problem, correct?

I had all the molex style plugs disconnected below and was still getting a ground off the wire.

[calj737]

The wire you're green arrow is pointing to comes from the Regulator, if I'm not mistaken. Your description is a bit unclear as to how/where you're testing, and what you're trying to ascertain? None of the "power" circuits have anything to do with the indicators, if that's still the issue you're chasing-

[work9to5]

So one of those wires (green arrow) coming from the solenoid is supposed to ground. I cant tell from picture which one it is. The ground lead from that enables your starter to engage (simple version). This should have nothing to do with your turn signals. I'm betting your turn signals are not grounding, this is the case 90% of the time with rear turn signals when theyre not functioning. Also because both and not just one is not functioning, this also points to ground issue. The buzzing sound is most likely and old turn signal timer. They're cheap ten bucks at an auto store.

Make it simple for your self. Looking at the whole harness as the problem can get confusing. Start first by confirming your getting power to one of the turn signals. My guess is you are. Next check that its is grounding, but do it with and without (just by touching to exposed bike frame) the use of multimeter. Your ground is green on that model.

if thats not it pm maybe I can walk you through the rest. But yeah if I where you I'd do the whole harness, if wiggling the headlight causes fluctuations. I've also got a harness from a project bike if you want it but will cost $45+ship. Or I could make a reduced wire custom harness for you if you want. Also this guy  http://www.sparckmoto.com/ makes pretty much the best harness' you can buy, I believe he is a member here as well.

[calj737]

So one of those wires (green arrow) coming from the solenoid is supposed to ground.

All due respect, but the top studs of the solenoid connect directly 12vdc tot he battery POS (which is the one the green arrow is pointing to) and to the starter motor itself (the opposite side). Neither of these poles should be "ground". There is a Yellow/Red wire that provides a ground signal to the solenoid from the handle bar switch, but that's neither involved in the blinkers or this discussion.

[work9to5]

Yeah I agree with you Cal. I think he's got the green arrow ponted toward that yellow/red wire. That's what I was meaning to say "provides a ground signal to the solenoid", when I said ground. But I think we are all in agreement that your green arrow dewhicky-thingamajigy is pointing at nothing that has much to do with your rear turn signals yes?