Topic: Edumacate me on: Motogadget!

[srbakker]

Hi guys -

I've been working on my '75 CB750 for almost 3 years now (in reality, about 9 months - the rest of the time has been occupied with other projects, work, moving house, etc.) and I'm finally able to really get back into it.  I have a built engine ready to drop in and then I'm ready to build.

However, I'd really like to clean up the electrics.  My bike has no particular aesthetic direction, but I really like the look of the Motogadget mini switches.  Thing is, I'm clueless about electrics - it's going to be enough of a challenge for me to rewire the original bike with a few simple mods for electronic ignition, modern blade fuses and LED lights etc.

I've been reading about the Motogadget parts, but I'm having trouble finding a really good resource on what's needed, how it works, etc.  In fact, I'd go so far as to say that I'm struggling to figure out if the M-unit is intended to replace my entire harness or just some parts of it!

Clearly, I need a little direction.  Does anyone know of a good resource/diagrams/personal experience guru that might help me out here?

Many thanks! (And good to see y'all again!)
Scott

[flatlander]

ask cal (calj737) - he seems to be the forum's ambassador for these.

[evanphi]

ask cal (calj737) - he seems to be the forum's ambassador for these.

+1.

[srbakker]

Thanks folks.  I'll put in a PM ASAP.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The heart of the system is a Motogadget M-unit.  The m-unit replaces relays and fuses and becomes the CPU for all of the bike's electrical functions.  If you "blow" a fuse, the M-unit will reset.  You will still need a regulator rectifier (preferably a solid state modern unit), coils, points or electronic ignition, etc.  You can wire everything into the M-unit directly OR you can wire everything into an M-button and then have a single wire from the M-button to the M-unit. 

[DaveBarbier]

The heart of the system is a Motogadget M-unit.  The m-unit replaces relays and fuses and becomes the CPU for all of the bike's electrical functions.  If you "blow" a fuse, the M-unit will reset.  You will still need a regulator rectifier (preferably a solid state modern unit), coils, points or electronic ignition, etc.  You can wire everything into the M-unit directly OR you can wire everything into an M-button and then have a single wire from the M-button to the M-unit.

Just to clarify the m-button single wire thing, this only eliminates the wires from the switches into a single wire. Outputs will still have to be wired. So it really doesn't eliminate that much, really. For me, it would have only eliminated 6 wires out of 18. Glad Cal talked me out of it.

M-unit is great. Get it and their switches. Go to Wirebarn.com for wire.

I'll be doing more of a write up on my build thread when I finish my rewire this weekend about my m-unit and m-switches install.

[camelman]

I've been considering my own controls system build for a while and finally have a CL350 to do it on. The motogadget stuff looks good, but it's pricey. Has anyone here tried to cobble one together on their own? I'm considering an Arduino Mini using Trailtech remote switches like in the link below. The Arduino will drive a small bank of relays for higher power devices, and just directly drive LEDs through the analog or digital outputs at 5V for low power devices like the gauge lights. It should be able to drive a stepper motor for the speedo and tach too.

Apologies for threadjacking.

http://flymotorsports.com/trail-tech-remote-handlebar-switch-for-vector-8500-rs/?utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=665-8500


FYI, the Trailtech remote switch is about $20 and the Arduino mini is about $2.50 shipped. Would still need a few other parts and some wiring too.

[evanphi]

I've been considering my own controls system build for a while and finally have a CL350 to do it on. The motogadget stuff looks good, but it's pricey. Has anyone here tried to cobble one together on their own? I'm considering an Arduino Mini using Trailtech remote switches like in the link below. The Arduino will drive a small bank of relays for higher power devices, and just directly drive LEDs through the analog or digital outputs at 5V for low power devices like the gauge lights. It should be able to drive a stepper motor for the speedo and tach too.

Apologies for threadjacking.

http://flymotorsports.com/trail-tech-remote-handlebar-switch-for-vector-8500-rs/?utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=665-8500


FYI, the Trailtech remote switch is about $20 and the Arduino mini is about $2.50 shipped. Would still need a few other parts and some wiring too.

...not to mention the programming know-how.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

To understand; the MotoGadget mini switches are all "momentary" switches, no polarity. Unlike the stock switches, they are not designed to carry much voltage, instead, they signal the "m-unit" to relay power from the input side to the output side which delivers switched 12v to the component directly, not thru the mini switch.

Its not "required" to use the M-unit, but it sure makes everything much easier if you are changing switches, gauges, and wires. You can reduce the wire gauge used to 22/24AWG for signals, and 18AWG for powered circuits. This is much smaller and neater than the stock ~16AWG used in the factory loom. And by using the M-unit, you can eliminate: Winker Relay (turn signal relay), Starter Safety Motor, Turn Signal Buzzer, Fuse block, and consolidate the Reg/Rec into a solid state unit. The stock starter solenoid is still required.

You also get: programmable turn signals (auto cancel), programmable running lights (indicators always on at a % of intensity), programmable Brake light (strobe, strobe then solid, fade to solid), 7 independently fused circuits from the stock 3, and fault resetting of the offending circuit in case of problems. An integrated Starter Safety Motor, and multifunction button pushes to provide extra features.

Any other questions? 

Does it brew coffee and take the kids to school, too?

[Retro Rocket]

To understand; the MotoGadget mini switches are all "momentary" switches, no polarity. Unlike the stock switches, they are not designed to carry much voltage, instead, they signal the "m-unit" to relay power from the input side to the output side which delivers switched 12v to the component directly, not thru the mini switch.

Its not "required" to use the M-unit, but it sure makes everything much easier if you are changing switches, gauges, and wires. You can reduce the wire gauge used to 22/24AWG for signals, and 18AWG for powered circuits. This is much smaller and neater than the stock ~16AWG used in the factory loom. And by using the M-unit, you can eliminate: Winker Relay (turn signal relay), Starter Safety Motor, Turn Signal Buzzer, Fuse block, and consolidate the Reg/Rec into a solid state unit. The stock starter solenoid is still required.

You also get: programmable turn signals (auto cancel), programmable running lights (indicators always on at a % of intensity), programmable Brake light (strobe, strobe then solid, fade to solid), 7 independently fused circuits from the stock 3, and fault resetting of the offending circuit in case of problems. An integrated Starter Safety Motor, and multifunction button pushes to provide extra features.

Any other questions? 

Does it brew coffee and take the kids to school, too?

If it did that and mowed the lawns you'd marry it....

[Restoration Fan]

How do programmable turn signals work on a bike?  On a car, they turn off when you reverse direction on the steering wheel and go past a certain turn radius.  But on a bike, I would assume it's a timed thing?

[camelman]

You can identify the turn with an inclinometer. The inclinometer will measure force along the X, Y, and Z axis. As the force on the axis corresponding to the turn increases it will reach a maximum and then decrease. After it decreases back near zero you can assume the turn is done and command the turn signal program to stop. The inclinometer can perform this task even if it measures only one or two axes.

[DaveBarbier]

How do programmable turn signals work on a bike?  On a car, they turn off when you reverse direction on the steering wheel and go past a certain turn radius.  But on a bike, I would assume it's a timed thing?

You can identify the turn with an inclinometer. The inclinometer will measure force along the X, Y, and Z axis. As the force on the axis corresponding to the turn increases it will reach a maximum and then decrease. After it decreases back near zero you can assume the turn is done and command the turn signal program to stop. The inclinometer can perform this task even if it measures only one or two axes.

It's actually pretty simple and smart. It starts the countdown for signal shutoff after you release the brakes. Not sure what happens if you release then press brakes again, maybe it restarts the countdown, maybe not. I'll test that.

It does have an accelerometer/gyroscope for the alarm function so it could have used that method but doesn't.

I wish it was able to upload different settings. It's a completely sealed unit but if it had a little micro USB input that would be helpful. I'm thinking like 'flash the brakes under heavy braking' which it doesn't currently do, unfortunately.

[DaveBarbier]

If you want to learn more about what it does, read the user manual on Motogadget's site. Surprisingly it's very clear and has a lot of information.

[srbakker]

Thanks folks.  As always, you're a collective wealth of information.

calj737, if I could pick your brain on some setup and wiring ideas, that would be fantastic!

Cheers,
Scott