Topic: Maduncle has FINALLY got himself a CB750K

[Terry in Australia]

I don't know if you're using the OEM idiot light console or whether you've hooked up some snazzy steampunk light thingy, but the OEM light has just that, and (I'm guessing) with a common earth. See the wiring diagram pic, below. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Yep - thats the exact same diagram I am working off mate.

I am using a stock (non steampunk) aftermarket speedo gauge with the four idiot lights built in. Each idiot light has a power lead and corresponding earth lead.

So it is:

- gauge face light power orange, gauge face light earth orange with black trace.
- indicator idiot light power yellow, indicator idiot light earth yellow with black trace.
- oil idiot light power red, oil idiot light earth red with black trace.
- high beam idiot light power blue, high beam idiot light earth blue with black trace.
- neutral idiot light power green, neutral idiot light earth free with black trace.

Got them all sorted to their respective "power when activated" power sources, apart from the indicator idiot light.

I guess there is a way as they sell millions of these little white faced gauges.

http://www.shop.modernmotorcyclecompany.com.au/collections/instruments/products/speedo-60mm-with-warning-lights-white-face-140kph

[maduncle]

And here are all my questions answered:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=123442.0

Now to get some diodes.

[Terry in Australia]

Fcuk it, you don't need indicator lights anyway, I just look at my blinkers to see if they're one..........

[maduncle]

Fcuk it, you don't need indicator lights anyway, I just look at my blinkers to see if they're one..........

Yeah - they only work half the time anyway so who needs 'em?

Okay - I do.

So this evening I made the "two diodes joined together thingie" I found on a three here and installed in my front end wiring loom.

Getting closer to 100% wiring done now - tomorrow night its the stator, then PAMCO to coils, then Motogadget keyless start switch then hopefully it is time to gently start the bike!

[Terry in Australia]

Well done Cliff, see, you could do it after all!

[maduncle]

Hmmmm

Stator wired up.

Went to do the PAMCO and needed to turn the engine to get the timing right - and it wont budge.

Tried it with the plugs out, tried a gentle rocking back and forward in gear, tried the kick starter, no movement.

So I spoke to the guy who built the engine and he tells me that he turned it over okay on the alternator bolt, and that it would be a little stiff if it sat still for a couple of days but still moved. He did this with the alternator cover off, so I am wondering if the alternator cover is hitting something and stopping the crank from moving?

I am open to ideas and suggestions folks ...

[Terry in Australia]

That doesn't sound right Cliff, I built Mike's engine a couple of years ago (yeah I know, I better give it back soon......) and it turns over fine every few weeks when I crank it over. With the plugs out, your enginet should turn over really easily.

Take the alternator cover off and see if it turns over, but if it doesn't, or if it's still really tight, (especially with the plugs out) you better take it back to him............Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

That doesn't sound right Cliff, I built Mike's engine a couple of years ago (yeah I know, I better give it back soon......) and it turns over fine every few weeks when I crank it over. With the plugs out, your enginet should turn over really easily.

Take the alternator cover off and see if it turns over, but if it doesn't, or if it's still really tight, (especially with the plugs out) you better take it back to him............Cheers, Terry.

Yep, stator cover off tomorrow arvo after the bike shuffle.

He is coming over on Monday night to have a look, if I have not freed up the engine by then he will be taking the whole bike home with him and bringing it back when it runs.

[Terry in Australia]

Good idea mate, get him to get it running properly while he's at it.

[oldskullero]

Subscribed. Great proj

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[maduncle]

Good news people.

The bike turned over on the stator bolt, then turned over on the points cover nut, then on the kick starter and finally on the starter motor.

I am still a couple of weeks away from the full fire up - so I guess in between now and then I just need to turn it over by hand once a day to keep it moving.

My engine builder had a look at my headlamp bowl wiring...

... and we started again. So I now have a few wires to connect up tomorrow night. turns out repro switch blocks don't always plug and play according to the original wiring diagrams.

But hey - I am very happy the engine turns over.

[maduncle]

And the good news keeps on coming.

With the help of a mate we fitted the Motogadget M lock last night - these things are pretty easy to fit and the sensor works thr ought the side cover - so I now have hidden keyless ignition.

[dumbquestions]

Getting close!

I am following eagerly. Plan to run Pamco too so I'm looking over your shoulder.

[maduncle]

Getting close!

I am following eagerly. Plan to run Pamco too so I'm looking over your shoulder.

That was you breathing down my neck then?

The PAMCO to coil wiring task is the very last part of the wiring journey. As of last night I got headlamp, gauges, indicators, brake (off both front and rear levers) tail light all working. Neutral worked and then stopped (need to check the switch).

The plan for the Motogadget M lock is to get a "grain of rice" RFID microchip programmed to operate the M lock, then get it inserted under the web of skin between my right thumb and forefinger. But - getting a key tattoo there first. Sounds mad I know, but I want to try it, and if I ever need another bike to run off the same RFID, I can fit another M lock and program it to the same code.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The plan for the Motogadget M lock is to get a "grain of rice" RFID microchip programmed to operate the M lock, then get it inserted under the web of skin between my right thumb and forefinger.

    Me thinks you've earned your Avatar honestly- I wonder if MG wold send you free stuff if they learned of your, eh-hm, devotion?

...and if I ever need another bike to run off the same RFID, I can fit another M lock and program it to the same code.

This is exactly how I treat all of my bikes with MG stuff. One fob works on all bikes.

Now to just get that one code . . . .

[maduncle]

IT LIVES!!!

After completing the PAMCO to coils wiring yesterday I ran a little fuel down the lines to see if the bike would start.

Darn thing roared into life on the merest tap of the start button. I fair pooped myself as it went to full revs (no no no no no - be gentle!!!) so I made a mad grab for the idle screw to slow the beast down. By then the skerrick (that's a smidgen) of fuel was gone anyway.

Meanwhile I need to now get my freshly painted tank fixed as there are a couple of pin holes in the bottom of it, I don't want to just try a liner so I will get the holes properly braised up by a local welder. Wit any luck he can do it without damaging the paint. But if he does I can get it painted again.

So now it is gentle turn over by hand each day to keep it from getting sticky - until I get it to a mate for a tune.

Feels good knowing this engine runs so well.

[Terry in Australia]

Well done Cliff, but I do remember telling you to check the tank for leaks before you had it painted, the tank has already been lined, so you've got a problem, sadly. If you can get the old POR15 stripped out without damaging your paint job well and good, but if not, start looking for another tank. Anyway, good to know that it goes. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Well done Cliff, but I do remember telling you to check the tank for leaks before you had it painted, the tank has already been lined, so you've got a problem, sadly. If you can get the old POR15 stripped out without damaging your paint job well and good, but if not, start looking for another tank. Anyway, good to know that it goes. Cheers, Terry.

Yeah - and I told the guy who painted it to check for leaks before going all out on finish as part of the job.

The leak is from the underside of the tank, I am taking it to a good local welder who may be able to braise it up, the painter is prepared to repaint the tank at his cost once it is repaired.

I am after another CB750 tank anyway as I want a stock K2 green tank and side covers for the bike later on.

[Terry in Australia]

No worries, I tried soldering that tank because even though it was dent free, it was pretty badly corroded in the bottom. I think that brazing might be too much for it, unless he's going to braze a plate on underneath. The problem is the POR-15 liner, it'll need to be chemically removed before he can braze it, then re-applied once it's been repaired, so I doubt if your paint job will survive. Cheers, Terry.    

[maduncle]

Even welding or brazing your tank with POR inside is a very bad idea. It is likely to ignite the liner and not stop. Even if you don't catch the liner on fire, you will melt away the liner from that area, and create an edge on open metal/liner that will be susceptible to infiltration later.

The easiest fix Cliff is to add a second layer (only a half portion) and focus on the areas of the tank where the pinholes are. Its safest and simplest and will normally solve an error in coverage from the first effort.

Thanks for that - I will get a liner kit and do just that.

[Terry in Australia]

I know that you're hoping for an easy fix Cliff, but POR-15 doesn't stick well to POR-15 that's had fuel on it. I had that problem previously, I tried Cal's method, and the second layer didn't adhere to the old layer properly, and I had silvery slop in my float bowls, so I ditched that tank and lined another one, and had no further issues. It might work, but the kit is well over 100 bucks here, so you'd be better off using another tank. Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

I spoke with the guy here in Australia who sells the KBS tank liner kits. He recommended I buy the $27 small tin of liner, strip back the leaking area on the outside of the tank, apply one coat of liner with a brush, press a layer of fibreglass mat into the wet liner, then apply a second coat of liner over the top.

All done to the underside of the tank where it wont be seen, so for $27 I will try it and see if it fixes the pin hole for now.

Meanwhile I have another tank to get painted to replace this one and this one I plan to get painted in Honda Candy Bacchus Olive with K2 stripes - all nice and stock.

I also want to buy a pair of repro side covers to get painted at the same time and repro side cover badges - but the range of options on the 4 into 1 site confuses me - and I don't want to end up wit the wrong badges for the side covers.

Can anyone point me in the direction of repro side covers with the right badges?

[Terry in Australia]

I've probably got a pair here that you can have Cliff, freebies. Only problem is I'm in Adelaide until Friday, and my brother (in Townsville) died this morning, so I may have to fly up there on the weekend? Any K1-K6 sidecovers will fit, the badges on yours should be the early 750 Four script, and the diamonds are an amber colour, not red. (K1 only) Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Very sorry to hear about your brother Terry.

No hurry - talk to you in a couple of weeks.