Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread

[Bodi]

The larger diameter inner roller bearing race goes at the bottom of the stem, where the old bottom inner ball race was. It should be a snug fit, if it is loose on the larger stem diameter you have a problem.

[FunJimmy]

I'm assuming you are talking about a CB550. If that is right then the lower bearing should be 30mm ID and the upper bearing a 26mm ID.

That being said, there was a post from CrisPDuk in England that measured his CB550 stem with a 29mm lower ID. 

His post is here http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=29890.15


Check the diameter of the upper and lower bearing site and let us know what they are.

FJ

[possum2082]

yeah, well, it's a 500 frame with a 550 lower triple....
but actually, it turns out i'm an idiot 

i measured the bearings all three dimensiosn and they jived with the sudco list given to me earlier in this thread. 

i looked at the lower triple again and noticed that there is a part at the bottom of the shaft that is thicker than the rest.  duh.

well, crisis diverted, for now. 

per usual, thank you so much to everyone.  you guys have been so helpful to me since i purchased my 550. 

i'm ready to get this bike build now. 

[FunJimmy]

Good news.

[fergie]

I am in the middle of install tapered bearings and I ran into a snag. I can't seem to get the lower (inner) race off my lower tripple clamp. almost seems to be part of the lower tripple clamp. below it is a rubber washer and a thin metal washer so I know it must come off. any tips? cheers,Fergie.

[HondaMan]

I am in the middle of install tapered bearings and I ran into a snag. I can't seem to get the lower (inner) race off my lower tripple clamp. almost seems to be part of the lower tripple clamp. below it is a rubber washer and a thin metal washer so I know it must come off. any tips? cheers,Fergie.

Fergie:
First, soak the joint with penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench.
One method: take a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut through most of it, then split with a chisel.
Or: take a 1/8" drill and make several side-by-side dimples (vertically) in the face, so a chisel won't slip off while hitting it. Then take a chisel to those marks. This will either split it or distort it enough to get a screwdriver tapped in under it and tap it off.

Either way, don't be too hard on the pipe, as it is either cast in (K0, K1, K2) or pressed in (k3-later) to the lower triple clamp. You don't want to damage that fit-up joint. While working on it, thread the upper nut back onto those fine threads on the top, so they don't get damaged while all this is going on...

[fuzzybutt]

if you have a welder...............strike a quick arc on the collar, the heat will make it expand and loosen. learned that from a machinist.

[fergie]

thanks guys now part two. do I leave the rubber and metal washer on or do I strip it completly

[FunJimmy]

If your new taper roller kit didn't include a new seal and spacer, keep them.

[fergie]

this is the part I'm trying to get off . It does have to come off right?

[fergie]

this is the part i'm trying to get off. It does have to come off right?

[shoemanII]

yes.  i used a very thin cold chisel, working around the perimeter.
bobp   

[FunJimmy]

fergie

That is the lower ball race and it has to be removed.
Your new bearing sits there.

[Alan F.]

It's been suggested that a pair of tire irons will do the trick, but I didn't have any when I did mine, so....

I clamped the triple in a vise and tapped a small screwdriver under the race to pry it up, I tapped it in a little here, then a little over there, then a little over here.....   When it began to move I moved on to a progressively larger screwdriver, when I got to my largest screwdriver, I put a small piece of wood in place as a fulcrum to pry against.  Lots of good quality penetrating oil will be required, be careful to keep the race perpendicular to the stem bolt.

That rubber washer/seal part was destroyed when I finally got the race removed, they're probably available if you're inclined to use one, or improvise, I just left it out, and have had no issues.
Don't forget to put that big washer looking part on the stem first during reassembly.

CHEERS!

[Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"]

I have that rubber seal if you need one.

[paulages]

i always pull the rubber part off first. i've had some luck knocking the inner race off with a drift or chisel without #$%*ing up the metal washer, but never worry-- it'll flatten right back out with a hammer and a flat surface.

set the lower triple upside-down, with something soft under the top of the steering stem, so you don't mar it up. then work your way around the bottom edge of the race with the drift, making sure to alternate side to side, so you don't wedge pressure onto it by knocking one side too much farther than the other. if the metal washer is the only surface you can get behind, go for it. like i said, you can flatten it back out and worst case scenario, it's still available. i've never had to cut into one or weld or whatever other tricks might be necessary on a really stubborn specimen.

[Hondell]

I received an "All Balls " Tapered steering head set for my 750 K4 (1974) but I threw away the old races!!! Does anyone know which (if ANY) of the spacers I need to install with the tapered set. I really don't want to press on the new one only to find I have to take it off again.
Thanks

[75modrat]

Holy Cow! I finally get to answer a question. I ordered the same tapered bearings for my bike and didnt have one of the races either so I couldnt measure to know which to use. Everyone just told me to sell them on ebay and buy some other companys. That being said, I called Ken at CycleX and he said they just use the small one. Eventually I found a few other reports that said they used the small spacer. Thus, I used the small/thin spacer and things seemed to fit perfectly.

Frank

[Hondell]

Thanks Rat, Will try today.

[FunJimmy]

I think the All Balls bearing kit is awesome.
Remember the spacer is just there to adjust the clearance between the lower triple and the head tube.
It's not rocket science. You just don't want the lower triple to drag on the head tube.
If you did use the thicker spacer, it probably won't make a big difference anyway.
I pressed the races into my head tube, started with the thick spacer and checked for fittment.
The bearing isn't hard to remove with the spacer providing access to the underside.
Second to that, it's not like the bearing has been installed for 30 years and has some how bonded itself to the steer tube.

Take your time and do it right.

[void909]

so what are the early cb750 guys using for tapered steering head bearings? I have heard you cant find them anymore.

[hymodyne]

all balls sells a kit for our bikes.

hym

[troppo]

all balls sells a kit for our bikes.

hym

Love that name

[void909]

have you tried them or know anyone who has?

[hymodyne]

I've got them in my bike now. So far so good. You remove the old steering races and put these tapered head bearings in with a seal and a shim washer.

hym