Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread

[MCRider]

Going medieval on it may offend some sensibilities, but I'm OK with it.

#$%* ya! I got it! Ya, I just beat the hell out of it along the areas where it was partially out. And yes, I'll have to touch up the gouges I made. One large one. Pics comin soon...

Remember, you're the boss, the machine is the slave!   

[Dave-and-his-550]

May it rest in pieces...





OUCH. Oh shi- So, grind those gouges as smooth as possible.

[MCRider]

Yeah, to be clear, that's not the proper way. But once its cocked, it's likely dug a groove and you don't have much choice.

Cutting it with a Dremel may have diminshed the damage, but I vote for just getting it out of there. It won't take any longer to dress up the grooves, but be sure you do a good job.

[Dave-and-his-550]

Ya, I knew it wasn't the best way 

As far as those gouges go, if you look at the second picture, the one on the left is more like a 'valley' so to speak, and the one on the right is more like a 'ridge'. The right one I can grind smooth again, but as far as the other one goes...? I can maybe make the 'valley' smaller by grinding around the edges, but there will always be that dip there, would this effect the seating of the new race?

[MCRider]

Ya, I knew it wasn't the best way 

As far as those gouges go, if you look at the second picture, the one on the left is more like a 'valley' so to speak, and the one on the right is more like a 'ridge'. The right one I can grind smooth again, but as far as the other one goes...? I can maybe make the 'valley' smaller by grinding around the edges, but there will always be that dip there, would this effect the seating of the new race?

Nope. No one will ever know and I won't tell. I wouldn't do anyhting that may make the overall hole larger, and the race may be loose.  Take down any ridges, leave the valleys alone.

[Dave-and-his-550]

It was mentioned before that, if you use the stock headlight ears, you will need a washer to hold them nice and tight with the new bearings, otherwise they'll spin around. Is this correct for all applications? If I recall, it was referring to a 750, I have a 550. I imagine it works both ways, and I'll probably check out my hardware store for a spacer to add to each headlight ear. A 5mm spacer washer was the one that worked. Anybody else use washers also?

[Dave-and-his-550]

Another quick question, nobody mentioned using lube to oil up the bearing to slide it down over the steering stem. It would seem like a good idea to ease the installation, but is there a reason for not doing it? Obviously you don't want the bearing to spin once installed, I don't think it would with a little bit of lube...

[Hush]

I guess everyone expects that some of the huge amount of grease you have plastered all over the new tapered bearings would have got onto the back of them and made it easier.
You did grease the bearings?

[HavocTurbo]

I guess everyone expects that some of the huge amount of grease you have plastered all over the new tapered bearings would have got onto the back of them and made it easier.
You did grease the bearings?

HA! Now THERE'D be some interesting noises!!!

[Dave-and-his-550]

I will be greasing them, haven't installed just yet though. I need to figure out the spacer washer size. I need a 35mm ID to go over the fork tube, but not to wide of an OD or it wont fit inside the headlight ear. Also, it has to be 5mm tall? In order to hold the headlight ear in good, right?

[mystic_1]

I'd get the trees in place first, then you can either measure or test-fit the forks to see what you need to do shim-wise on the ears.

mystic_1

[Dave-and-his-550]

True. I ran to the hardware store and picked up six washers, they're a perfect fit 35mm inner diameter and 50 outer. They're only 1 1/2 mm tall though, but I'll use what I need tonight. They should sit right above the bottom headlight ear seals.

[crazypj]

I would  use Loctite bearing fit instead of lubing it.
 Give it 24hrs then grease up and re-assemble. Even after cocking bearing, its still safer to tap it back square and beat it out square. The stress on steering bearings is a lot higher than you imagine. These things don't handle too well when everything is 'tight' any slop makes them even more 'interesting'

PJ

[Dave-and-his-550]

I can't seem to remember what dust seal to use out of this All Ballz kit, both seals snap into the bottom bearing just fine, the thinner one allows for more free play with the bearing. When I snap in the larger seal, the bearing doesn't spin as easily, but still can.

Pix if it helps:



Maybe it doesn't matter, maybe I'm just being to specific 

[MCRider]

I can't seem to remember what dust seal to use out of this All Ballz kit, both seals snap into the bottom bearing just fine, the thinner one allows for more free play with the bearing. When I snap in the larger seal, the bearing doesn't spin as easily, but still can.

Pix if it helps:



Maybe it doesn't matter, maybe I'm just being to specific 

Those are cool, my "green box" kit had no seals. Remember those bearings don't spin in use, they barely turn 90 degrees. Still friction resistance to steering inputs are tiny but meaningful in a performance context. Use the big dust seal for most cleanliness.  I would use the least amount friction resistance as I favor the ease in steering, especially at speed in the twisties.

Since mine has no seal, I have no resistance and I'm fine with that.

Really picking nits here.

Your call

[Dave-and-his-550]

Thanks for the reply MC, I guess I should also consider the stack height if using the taller seal. I might not need that thin washer after all. I'll have to go measure it again.

[MCRider]

THe soft part of the seal should have no bearing (pun unintended)  in the decision about stack height, only hard parts against hard parts.

Looking at your picture the hard part of the seals appear to be the same. So if you need the spacer for one, you'll need it for the other.

[Dave-and-his-550]

The seal sits nice and snug into the bearing like this:



I think it'll all go together well. I'll heat up the bearing with a heat gun and slide it down over the frozen steering stem, then pound away on the pvc pipe should be fun...

[MCRider]

You're in control, carry on.

[Dave-and-his-550]

Races are seated, here are a few pics.

Bottom:



Looks like a slight gap, but I hit pretty hard and it isn't budging any closer...

Top:


It was mentioned before that the top race sits up a bit, but this much? Seems like I need to hit it down flush against that lip right? 

[mystic_1]

I've never worked on a 550 so I'm not 100% certain, but on the 750 there are two lips in that area.  Use a dental mirror to see if you're all the way in.  If you could drive the race in to that lip that's visible in the pic than it looks like the race would be recessed at that point.


mystic_1

[MCRider]

I've never worked on a 550 so I'm not 100% certain, but on the 750 there are two lips in that area.  Use a dental mirror to see if you're all the way in.  If you could drive the race in to that lip that's visible in the pic than it looks like the race would be recessed at that point.


mystic_1

What he said.

[Dave-and-his-550]

Haha, that bottom bearing went on the stem a lot easier then I thought! I freezed the stem for a day, and torched the bearing with my heat gun right before I installed it. Pounded for about 2 minutes and it slid right on  

Edit: Luckily I took pics of the top after I got the old race out. There are definitely two lips, I'm pretty confident it is resting on the top one now.

[Johnie]

Does everyone go with the All Ballz kit or are there other kits you guys like the better.  Any pros / cons in the different kits and does one brand fit better than another?

[mystic_1]

I've heard that some other kits don't include the dust seals.  I always use All-Balls.   I'm sure that other kits will be dimensionally the same, but there may be differences in the quality of the bearings.

mystic_1