Author Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread (Read 189820 times)

Johnie · « **Reply #425 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:33:12 am »

Fine thread...I will be doing this to my newly aquired K4 this winter. Are the 70 - 76 CB750K steering heads, bearings, spacers and bearing installs all the same?

mystic_1 · « **Reply #426 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:35:50 am »

As far as I know, yes.

mystic_1

Popwood · « **Reply #427 on:** August 12, 2009, 10:46:31 am »

I jsut finished my 75 750K using the all balls kit. Used the thinner space and didn't use the upper dust seal. Worked perfect, just as described in the excellent photo/step by step instructions found in this thread starting aboout page 9 or 10.

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #428 on:** August 12, 2009, 03:18:08 pm »

Faaaawwkkk, I cannot get those old races out

I'm using a hollowed steel rod (Previously a wood clamp) and bangin' hard on the bottom one. I've already messed up the edges of the rod lol without moving the race at...Might have to buy a solid steel one from Tractor Supply? I've already walked around the dirty parts of town lookin for a scrap piece...No luck

Should I get a can of that compressed air and hold it upside down? Use that cold ass air that comes out?

Popwood · « **Reply #429 on:** August 12, 2009, 03:32:03 pm »

Are you struggling withe the races in the steering head tube (as opposed to stem)? If so, be darn shure you strike them so that force is applied equally or you will jam them in. Perhaps you should make sure they are not jammed already be making sure they are seated properly to begin with.

I started with the lower race, tapping easily around the edges and using penetrating oil liberally. Took awhile to get it started but one the grip was "broke" is moved more easily. On the top one, with the lower removed, I used a piece of wood the same with as the inside of the fork tube (ok, a bit smaller) and drove it out. the upper was much easier.

I found the lower race on the fork stem the hardest to remove. Used a torch to heat it up, then penetrating oil, then a thin pry bar to get it started.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #430 on:** August 12, 2009, 04:49:01 pm »

The old races you're removing are ball bearing races, yes?

The top race in the neck sometimes comes out easier since it's bore is not as deep. Try whacking that one out, that'll give you more room to tackle the lower one.

For the lower, use the largest diameter, heaviest drift you can. The large diameter keeps things square, and the extra mass helps transmit the force of your blows into the race more efficiently. Use a dead blow hammer if you have one.

If you can get your hands on some dry ice, chilling the lower bearing race will cause it to contract and make it easier to remove.

good luck!

mystic_1

Johnie · « **Reply #431 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:14:27 pm »

Does everyone go with the tapered? Or do some guys put new races and the balls back in there?

MCRider · « **Reply #432 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:47:24 pm »

Quote from: Johnie on August 12, 2009, 05:14:27 pm

Does everyone go with the tapered? Or do some guys put new races and the balls back in there?

Everybody who wants to never worry about it again for as long as they live.

Some guys put the bicycle balls back in ... I suppose. Some people like doing the same thing over and over.

Johnie · « **Reply #433 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:53:46 pm »

Quote from: MCRider on August 12, 2009, 05:47:24 pm

Quote from: Johnie on August 12, 2009, 05:14:27 pm
Does everyone go with the tapered? Or do some guys put new races and the balls back in there?
Everybody who wants to never worry about it again for as long as they live.

Some guys put the bicycle balls back in ... I suppose. Some people like doing the same thing over and over.

Guess what concerns me is guys talking about having to lathe stuff down to get the right fit...I just don't have the capabilities of doing lathe stuff. My KO has the old balls. The races looked good and there were no dents so I just repacked those. My K1 came with tapered so I am OK there. It is this K4 I just got that will need some work this winter. I can tell they are toast.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #434 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:56:29 pm »

Lathe??? No lathe necessary.

mystic_1

Johnie · « **Reply #435 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:03:01 pm »

Quote from: mystic_1 on August 12, 2009, 05:56:29 pm

Lathe??? No lathe necessary.

mystic_1

Oh, I was reading parts of this thread and he talked about lathing down under the dust cap? OK, but if I start this thing I will be asking, asking, asking...

MCRider · « **Reply #436 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:08:42 pm »

Quote from: Johnie on August 12, 2009, 06:03:01 pm

Quote from: mystic_1 on August 12, 2009, 05:56:29 pm
Lathe??? No lathe necessary.

mystic_1
Oh, I was reading parts of this thread and he talked about lathing down under the dust cap? OK, but if I start this thing I will be asking, asking, asking...

YOu won't need much more than a hammer and a punch, a big crescent wrench, etc. Neanderthal fare. You get to bang on things. A curse here and there. The ring of steel hitting the concrete floor. (old bearing races. A real pretty "DING") A few hours and you can be proud of yourself.

Popwood · « **Reply #437 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:41:23 pm »

Fess up time. Truth be told, being somewhat new to motorcycle maintenance, the anxiety of getting it right was far more than required, actually. Sure, there were a few anxious moments along the way, mostly with getting the races off, but it was the first time and all first times are a learning curve and should be understood and approached as such. It's just part of the journey. The result is a superb handling front end, more confidence to tackle other issues and lots of satisfaction. And aside from the fun of riding, that's where a lot of enjoyment resides getting to know these wonderful machines.

Really? · « **Reply #438 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:44:05 pm »

I put the spacer above the bottom race. Worked out fine. I asked here and never got an answer for that question.

MCRider · « **Reply #439 on:** August 12, 2009, 07:07:09 pm »

Quote from: TipperT on August 12, 2009, 06:44:05 pm

I put the spacer above the bottom race. Worked out fine. I asked here and never got an answer for that question.

You mean above the bottom race in the frame?

Putting it in the frame first followed by the race is fair as it maintains the stack height.

Accomplishes the same thing as putting it below the bearing cage on the stem.

I think. Sorry you didn't get an answer. You may have stumped the crowd that night.

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #440 on:** August 12, 2009, 09:18:56 pm »

Quote from: mystic_1 on August 12, 2009, 04:49:01 pm

For the lower, use the largest diameter, heaviest drift you can. The large diameter keeps things square, and the extra mass helps transmit the force of your blows into the race more efficiently. Use a dead blow hammer if you have one.

Crap, I've been hittin it with a steel tube with a diameter of about a 1/2". And, I bought a new solid steel rod with a diameter of about the same so, you're saying I should get something in there that is a lot larger? Pix related:

paulages · « **Reply #441 on:** August 12, 2009, 11:39:57 pm »

Quote from: Dave-and-his-550 on August 12, 2009, 09:18:56 pm

Quote from: mystic_1 on August 12, 2009, 04:49:01 pm
For the lower, use the largest diameter, heaviest drift you can. The large diameter keeps things square, and the extra mass helps transmit the force of your blows into the race more efficiently. Use a dead blow hammer if you have one.

Crap, I've been hittin it with a steel tube with a diameter of about a 1/2". And, I bought a new solid steel rod with a diameter of about the same so, you're saying I should get something in there that is a lot larger? Pix related:

you've probably knocked it out by now, but if you haven't, just work your way around on all sides so you don't cockeye the race and get it stuck. it'll knock right out.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #442 on:** August 13, 2009, 04:46:11 am »

And if you knock the top race out first, you'll have much more room to go at the lower one.

mystic_1

Really? · « **Reply #443 on:** August 13, 2009, 08:01:16 am »

I wonder why some people have to go through this much and some people don't. I barley hit mine and they went flying. I figured I would have to beat on it for a while.

Hey Ron, I am always greatful for your help. You have been there for me since I started here. I have noticed lately I get less and less help from the members. Either I am not being liked much anymore or I am stumping people which I figure would be hard for me to do.

Carry on, not meant to highjack the thread.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #444 on:** August 13, 2009, 08:10:52 am »

Oh btw that 1/2 inch solid rod you're using should be fine. As MCRider said make sure to tap in different places all the way around the circumference, in order to drive the race out squarely.

If the top race is out you can use a piece of pipe that just fits inside the steering head. At that point you could use a hydraulic jack as a redneck-bench-press to press the bearing out.

Check the race to see if it's already gone crooked in the bore. You may need to drive the race back in, in order to get it square, than drive it out again.

Good news, once finished you won't have to do this again for many many years

mystic_1

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #445 on:** August 13, 2009, 12:03:27 pm »

lol thnx mystic. I did not work on it yesterday because I got caught up in doing other things. So today I'll give it another go. I'll have my brother help pound the race out while I watch to make sure it stays square. Hopefully it'll pop out.

crazypj · « **Reply #446 on:** August 13, 2009, 12:05:28 pm »

Quote from: TipperT on August 13, 2009, 08:01:16 am

Hey Ron,
I am always greatful for your help.
You have been there for me since I started here.
I have noticed lately I get less and less help from the members.
Either I am not being liked much anymore or I am stumping people which I figure would be hard for me to do.

Nope, it generally means the question has been asked eleventeen million times and people are fed up answering

PJ

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #447 on:** August 13, 2009, 12:38:58 pm »

Oh #$%*. You guys arent gonna be happy with me... I guess I wasn't watching it close enough:

Ya, so now it's jammed. I've tried hittin it back in with a hardened steel chisel, and the chisel is gettin chipped up bad without the race movin a fraction

I guess trying to hammer down hard on the side that is still stuck up in there, wont do any good now that the other side is stuck down? So, I think I'll try freezing the race some how, then hittin it back in again on the low side. Sounds like my only option.

MCRider · « **Reply #448 on:** August 13, 2009, 12:42:36 pm »

It's sacrificail right? Use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel and cut a slot in it. Then when you hit it it will break.

And or, wail on it and dress the frame back up from any gouges with the grindstone on your dremel.

I've done both. Going medieval on it may offend some sensibilities, but I'm OK with it.

PS: At least a 2.5lb ball peen hammer. Your call.

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #449 on:** August 13, 2009, 01:08:42 pm »

Quote from: MCRider on August 13, 2009, 12:42:36 pm

Going medieval on it may offend some sensibilities, but I'm OK with it.

#$%* ya! I got it! Ya, I just beat the hell out of it along the areas where it was partially out. And yes, I'll have to touch up the gouges I made. One large one. Pics comin soon...

News:

Author Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread (Read 189820 times)