Topic: Lets talk about soda blasting and painting an engine

[heyitsrama]

Luckily for me my wife has to travel now and then for business. That's when I bake the parts in the oven, but even before that, I run them though the dishwasher.

I can imagine her finding a bolt in the dishwasher thinking " how did this end up here?"
hahaha


Alright, well i was supposed to do media blasting on both this weekend, I ended up just finishing one half of the soda blasting, i need to get more soda as i can't close the lid on my cabinet, and the media flies into the neighbors yard.........






There appears to be some discoloration on sections? Im thinking this is related to the oxidization of the section. I figure its clean enough to go through the acetone run, then be primered.

[70CB750]

Looks like I will need to rig up a soda blasting setup, that engine half looks great.

[tlbranth]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

[heyitsrama]

Looks like I will need to rig up a soda blasting setup, that engine half looks great.

if your accountant allows i suggest a medium sized cabinet. I have http://tinyurl.com/poggg53 but i paid around 30 bucks for it, best 30 bucks spent. the 550 halves fit inside, but its really hard to move around the gun to get a good angle for the blast.

I also upgraded the feed holder // gun using http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/ as well as a tall bottle of smart water that has the bottom cut off, https://www.sustainablevillage.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_69&product_id=113 used to attach the hose end to that. I also remove the light, and zip tied the water bottle to the light holder to hold it upright. works super well, although you have to slap the bottle every now and then to get the media to fall into place.

Order a couple of those bottle attachments, they are useful for other things like DIY gas holders for carb tuning. Although I've not tired gas / oil in mine yet. 

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

Oh absolutely, if water is introduced into the air line from the compressor the baking soda just packs together, I did not try glass beads but i think they would give a better finish, but i don't really want to spend time fishing out beads from the oil feeds, the baking soda just a needs a couple min of water flushing. My Bougainvillea is cool with the powered BS, but the flowers nearby got wrecked.  i guess its the sodium....

[70CB750]

The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I like that, I have areas where the grass deserves killing 

[przjohn]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

[heyitsrama]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

How was the cleanup on the clean beads? did they get into the oil holes? I'm considering rerunning the half after seeing yours.

[Stev-o]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

That looks great!  You have it back together yet? Crank rebuilt??

My H2 engine is currently at the machine shop getting bead blasted and bored.

[przjohn]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

How was the cleanup on the clean beads? did they get into the oil holes? I'm considering rerunning the half after seeing yours.

I have done a few bikes this way. First step is blocking all threaded holes with bolts you reserve only for this purpose as they will be become wind torn. After glass beading the cases get run through the parts washer and washer fluid is blown through everything. After that they are taken to the sink where I have a hose connected to the faucet and use Simple Green and a good flushing through everything. In between these steps the cases and all ports are blown out with air. If you are even somewhat anal with your cleaning the parts will be fine. There are guys on 2 stroke forums who think it is sacrilege to glass bead any engine components for fear of a stray bead killing the motor. I have done more than a dozen motors this way and all run fine. Just be thorough with your cleaning,  it ain't that hard to do, you will have a great looking motor.

[przjohn]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

That looks great!  You have it back together yet? Crank rebuilt??

My H2 engine is currently at the machine shop getting bead blasted and bored.

Porsche Dave did the crank and as expected it came out perfect. The bike is very smooth. Sorry to others for going off topic but one can't resist posting a pic of "The Kids"

[Stev-o]

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

That looks great!  You have it back together yet? Crank rebuilt??

My H2 engine is currently at the machine shop getting bead blasted and bored.

Porsche Dave did the crank and as expected it came out perfect. The bike is very smooth. Sorry to others for going off topic but one can't resist posting a pic of "The Kids"

Looks great, nice job! I've heard Dave is good, I had Charlie rebuild my crank.

BTW - [not to John]  The Kaw Triples did not come painted from the factory, I did not bead blast my H1 case and regret it now.

What a fun bike to ride!

[Kenzo]

"There are guys on 2 stroke forums who think it is sacrilege to glass bead any engine components for fear of a stray bead killing the motor."

I've come here from the offroad bike world...

...it's the velocity stacks and minimal filtration would give me nightmares on a rebuild motor.


Cheers

[70CB750]

I've used soda and glass beads on this kind of stuff. The soda is really good at removing the factory paint but the best paint prep I think comes from the beads. By the way, the best price on soda that I have found is at Costco. The soda will kill the grass it lands on. Ax me how I know.

I agree, the Soda Blasting looks OK but I think a very fine bead does a better job at removing paint and prepping for new paint. On natural cases it is a very clean way to go and doesn't have the fingerprint problems of a coarser bead.

A couple of pics of 72 H1 cases that are done in a natural finish with very fine glass bead, before and after.

That looks great!  You have it back together yet? Crank rebuilt??

My H2 engine is currently at the machine shop getting bead blasted and bored.

Porsche Dave did the crank and as expected it came out perfect. The bike is very smooth. Sorry to others for going off topic but one can't resist posting a pic of "The Kids"

The smoker !

[70CB750]

I just got hold of myself. Dorothy engine, I will clean inside out and assemble. I am not building her for museum but for the road. Start up clean, that´s all she gets.

Going all pheeelosophical here, mere coincidence I was racking wine tonight

[Kenzo]

I have access to my friends shop with a small box for glass beading and air source if I want to soda blast...

...my understanding is that soda blasting basically removes paint and oxidation with very little material(aluminium) removed.

Glass beading(unlike sand blasting that removes material) tends to peen the surface(aluminium) somewhat smoothing/sealing the original casting.

I'm I on the right track with my thinking?

After bean blasting are you still required to paint or will the raw bead blasted surface just develop a reasonable/acceptable "patina" if left raw?

Thanks in advance,
Kenzo

[tlbranth]

Aluminum oxidizes pretty quickly and should have some kind of treatment even if bead-blasted.

[NobleHops]

Ive done the soda blast and paint routine twice, (assembled engine) and both came out great, but strictly speaking I would agree, disassembled is best for any number of previously stated reasons.

If you do want to do the soda and paint, my friend Patrick did a nice tutorial on the process he used, which was very similar to mine, and it's here:

Soda Blasting and Painting an Engine: Part 1

http://www.cbxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6690

and

Soda Blasting and Painting an Engine: Part 2

http://www.cbxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6691

The baking isn't such an obstacle if you have a powdercoater you work with, but as you can see from those links, heat lamps can be used effectively too.

By now you all know that vapor blast is also an option, and I think there is a guy on the forum that does it too.  But that is 100% a full-disassembly scenario if you want to go that route.

N.

[PeWe]

Which beer gives best result and how many?  The fluid where 5% ethanol will not harm....

[MauiK3]

This is an old thread but I thought I'd reply to it.
Has anyone been using soda blasting lately? I'm thinking of getting a setup for my potential upcoming Z1 project instead of a vapor honing setup. It's cheaper to set up and more versatile because I can do larger parts outside. I'm thinking of the engine cases and some other stuff. A vapor honing setup is a lot more expensive.
Is soda blasting effective?

[flybackwards]

soda blasted the cases then masked and painted them and baked in the oven (I had permission!), had the head and block vapour blasted and left them bare, polished the aluminum case covers and chromed the clutch and points covers. After soda blasting make sure that you clean out all bolt holes and threads - the soda gets in there and hardens - you go to torque a bolt in there it bottoms on the soda and something will give.

[MauiK3]

Looks great

[goodtryer]

I think it works. I've only done 3 projects and they've been pretty lightweight.

I've done a set of carbs that were still assembled. I taped everything closed and avoided blowing directly into openings. Just focused on the bodies and the throttle linkage. Cleaned them, soaked them, cleaned them. Came out very good for the amount of effort it took.

I tried doing a chain guard but it didn't really have the strength to get the paint off of it. It smoothed out some edges and removed some rust spots but I ended up just doing a little sanding, primer & paint.

Last week I did the rear hub off a 500. Again very pleased with the results. It easily cleaned the yellowed, flaking paint and left a very nice smooth finish. However, the soda was not able to remove the thick gunk that I guess is a couple of decades worth of chain lube. I had to scrape that by hand (came off easily with light scraping) and then finish the job with the soda blaster. Painted it with the leftover VHT aluminum color spray paint I had from another project: 4 coats, 10 minutes between. Finished the hub with new spokes, rim, tube & tire. Pretty proud of that for a first effort.

In doing these 3 projects, I used one 50-lb bag of soda. I'm sure someone more experienced could have done more with less but I'm happy with it. I use my 20-gallon oil-less compressor; it's barely adequate for the job but I'm only doing a small number of items. If I keep going and getting more into this, I'll upgrade to something better.

I'm going to do the front hub tomorrow using the same process. I'll report the results soon. Too hot out there right now; up to 95 already.

Cheers

PS Also remembered that I used it to clean some light rust off the rear brake arm. I'll be doing more investigating about using this for rust removal on hard to reach spots as the opportunities arise.

[MauiK3]

Looks like it does a nice job!

[goodtryer]

Blasted the front hub yesterday. Painted it and let it dry overnight. I'll get out there & install the new bearings this evening after the sun goes down.

[kerryb]

here is an engine I soda blasted assembled.  Outside, in the snow, on a stand, with all openings closed off with metal plates and o-ring seals.  yes, the grass was dead in the spring.  Harbor Freight soda blaster, did a nice job, but getting the soda off proved to be an issue, so I pressure washed it to remove the soda.  Then, I was so afraid that water had gotten into it, I put it back in the bike and ran it till hot to get rid of the water.  Took it back out of the bike and onto the stand to paint it with Duplicolor Engine paint (after a wipe-down with kerosene as recommended elsewhere).

The color choice proved to be a mistake, but the paint held up well.  Not sure what procedure I will use next time...