Author Topic: First Bike, First Build, 77 CB550K (Read 6195 times)

eoddom · « **Reply #25 on:** October 14, 2015, 06:42:41 PM »

So really not much progress, waiting for a set of carbs coming on friday that are already jetted for pod filters and aftermarket exhaust. Need to figure out what type of main jets to order so I can grab some smaller ones incase the ones in there now have the bike running too rich, aswell as some 90s so if I'm having any problems with it running properly I can put stock jets in with stock airbox to rule that out. Also got some uni pod filters, new plug caps and the large O-ring required to rebuild my caliper. Instead of rebuilding the master cylinder that's on it, I have a feeling I'll be looking for an upgrade along with a stainless line.

I do have a few questions though, one of them being a cosmetic alteration question. Now obviously, the thing that really drew me to these bikes are how many ways you can make it unique. I happen to love the brat style seats. I've noticed that some people put a rear hoop on the bike, and some dont. I was looking at the tail of the bike and I don't see how it'd be possible to get a rear hoop to really flow back there due to the shape of the frame where the rear fender bolts on. Obviously that rear hump has to go, that should be easy work though.

So heres how the bike sits tonight, patiently waiting for some life.

I noticed a wiring issue I'll need to tend to. I don't know what possessed someone to trust speaker wire for this fix. Was there originally a plug where the 1 wire branches off to the coils?

And from looking at the wiring diagram, I now know this is for the rear brake pedal to actuate the brake light. Problem is, it was dangling, and I don't know where it goes.

calj737 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 14, 2015, 06:57:06 PM »

Seat hoop: that jump is important. It ties the two rails together. If you remove it, replace the structure with something. But, take care to check for tire interference when the shocks are compressed.

Coil wires: the stock BLK/WHT had a two-way connector from the harness so each coil could plug into a single socket on a shared wire. Stock coil had male bullet, harness was female.

Rear brake switch: there should have been a thin circular bracket on the motor hangar tube of the frame. The switch rides in it, then an adjusting nut on the switch allowed setting of the distance of the switch from the pedal to activate the pull spring. Someone may have cut your brake bracket.

eoddom · « **Reply #27 on:** October 14, 2015, 07:06:10 PM »

I'm assuming that if there was a hoop welded on the end, it would hold it together. But you see how I'm having trouble understanding how a hoop would fab up to the tail without completely re-engineering the back of the bike so it's all tube. I'll definitely make sure that I have enough travel for the wheel, thanks for the heads up. I guess I'll have to re-wire that spot going to the coils so it atleast uses solid copper-core wire instead of speaker wire. And I'll look to see if that bracket is still there. If not, I eventually plan on some rear-sets, so it'd have to be moved eventually.

calj737 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 14, 2015, 07:21:12 PM »

Closing the hoop does solve the rails being tied together. Many struggle with an elegant solution to the shock gusset and hoop. Just look at some builds and take some ideas, then do what you like

The coil wire needs to be copper stranded, not solid core. 18AWG is all you need.

eoddom · « **Reply #29 on:** October 15, 2015, 08:02:50 PM »

Alright, thanks for that info.

On an un-related note, someone reached out to me on facebook when I was asking around for motorcycles for sale and offered me a cb450 basket case for free. Gonna go pick it up this weekend and in turn, give it to my buddy so I have someone else to turn wrenches on a bike with.

calj737 · « **Reply #30 on:** October 16, 2015, 04:13:32 AM »

Its a different animal altogether (CB450). Some say, "Its the most impressive Honda ever built"

eoddom · « **Reply #31 on:** October 16, 2015, 06:54:12 AM »

Yeah I've done a tiny bit of research on the bike last night. I gotta call the guy this afternoon, he's gonna give me a run down about the bike, what's there and what extra goodies he's throwing in with it.

Over 100hp per litre naturally aspirated is always cool though. Only thing I've ever owned that could claim that was an E46 M3.

calj737 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 16, 2015, 08:01:52 AM »

Quote from: eoddom on October 16, 2015, 06:54:12 AM

Over 100hp per litre naturally aspirated is always cool though.

Which basically makes it equivalent to your 550...

eoddom · « **Reply #33 on:** October 16, 2015, 03:25:43 PM »

Not really an update, moreso a list of what I hope to accomplish tomorrow.

Install new rack of carbs. These are PD46C's instead of the PD46A's i was running. Main jets are 110's, slow jet is 45, pilot screws are out 1 1/2 turns. Not sure what setting the needle is set at, will check this tomorrow and set at stock (3rd groove from top) if it's not already there, and move to 2nd groove from top if too lean.

Check and adjust valves, timing chain tension, gap points and check/adjust timing.

Install new plug caps and Uni pod filters (dont kill me for not having a stock airbox yet, working on it).

I'm sure the carbs will probably require tuning but I feel confident I have the time and patience to get them right, even if it means I end up with lots of extra jets.

Hopefully I'll be able to post up some pictures and a video of it running well tomorrow.

eoddom · « **Reply #34 on:** October 18, 2015, 05:38:44 PM »

So success. The bike started and ran pretty damn good. Even managed, once warm, to start it with one kick of the kick starter. Took it down my street and back just to make sure it's not dying out under load or backfiring. I guess those 110 mains with the pod filters were a good combo. Gonna have to adjust the IMS a bit to get the idle perfect so I don't have to mess with the big idle screw.

But now I've unearthed a few problems:

Apparently I have a charging problem. Bike runs great until the battery gets low, then it runs like crap and eventually dies out and wont start. Found this out at the end of my road on trip number two when it died at the stop sign and I had to push it home. Also realized I'm EXTREMELY out of shape. What's the most common issue with the charging system? Reg/Rec?

Problem two, the drain screws in two of the bowls don't seem to seat well. The overflow drains drip constantly but it's not due to the carbs overfilling. Pulled both bowls, put a little fuel in them and they still leak. Tried backing the screws out, cleaning them and reinstalling but still leak. Tried using the screws from my other set of carbs and still no luck, so has to be a problem with the bowls themselves. Any fix for this? or am I going to have to scavenge to bowls off my other set of carbs?

Edit:

Here's a video of it running earlier. Still need to adjust valves and timing chain but I think most of the noise is from that crappy leaky exhaust. The pipes aren't even super tight in the head, I can move them easily from side to side. New exhaust is high up on the list of stuff I need.

calj737 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 18, 2015, 06:43:23 PM »

Two most common problems with the charging system is a bad battery, and poor ground connections due to corrosion. It's possible that you were riding it at fairly low RPMs and that contributes to draining the battery. These are not like cars where if running, it's charging. The RPMs must be above 2,500 to actually run off the alternator and not directly from the battery.

Check with Harisuluv for proper screws or whether there's o-rings on the screws for your carbs.

Gene · « **Reply #36 on:** October 19, 2015, 11:17:48 AM »

Also check for cracks in your overflow tubes.

eoddom · « **Reply #37 on:** October 19, 2015, 03:09:59 PM »

It drains down to the lowest part of the bowl so I don't think it's the overflow tubes themselves. Either way, I'll just scavenge and clean two bowls from this other set of carbs since no one seems to want to buy them.

eoddom · « **Reply #38 on:** October 20, 2015, 06:09:30 PM »

Well I replaced the two bowls that were leaking, not leaking anymore. I did happen to find the main jet for #1 in the bottom of the bowl though.

eoddom · « **Reply #39 on:** October 22, 2015, 05:32:26 PM »

So I checked timing and it's pretty far advanced. Problem is, 2 of the 3 timing screws are completely stripped out from the PO. Anyone know what length/size/pitch these screws are? gonna get some easy outs and some bolts to replace the screws with and get my timing set properly.

calj737 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 23, 2015, 02:45:59 AM »

The reason you keep finding stripped screws is they are JIS not Phillips. Just replace them with stainless phillips, not bolts. There is a bad tendency to over-tighten these screws and bolts into the alloy cases. Also, buy yourself a proper set of JIS screwdrivers or bits to remove/service the original screws.

eoddom · « **Reply #41 on:** October 23, 2015, 04:42:18 AM »

Yeah I've read about the JIS screws. Wish the PO had aswell, haha. the screws are completely rounded out in the middle from the previous owner. So far, these are the only screws I've come across in this bad of shape. Every other screw I've that I needed to take out, I've been able to remove.

eoddom · « **Reply #42 on:** November 04, 2015, 12:16:26 PM »

So I got the bike running a little better today. The timing was a bit advanced, so brought it back a little and now it doesnt fall on its face when it's under load. Is it normal for these things to be pretty blah under 3k in any gear but 1st? I'm sure the timing could be fine tuned from here.

Also think I need to bring my air jets back half a turn, wont seem to idle lower than 1200rpm no matter how much I back out the big thumb screw for the entire carb assembly.

Also, from a cold start it seems like to having no choke at all. Fires right up without touching choke. With the choke on it wants to idle at like 2krpm but also seems to feel better in general. Running rich maybe?

Stev-o · « **Reply #43 on:** November 04, 2015, 03:26:16 PM »

Yes, could be rich, do a plug chop. Have you sync'd your carbs yet?

1200 rpm is a good idle, I like it a little high.

Life begins at 5K!

eoddom · « **Reply #44 on:** November 04, 2015, 04:56:23 PM »

I'll do a plug chop tomorrow and order a new set.

The carbs havent been vacuum synced yet, that's on the list next.

Also, curious, how do you guys generally support your frame to remove the front fork and rear swing arm? I'm at the point in this project where I feel comfortable that the bike is running half way decent/will run better with fine tuning and I want to go ahead and strip her down to the frame, get it cleaned up and start replacing bearings/bushings, cleaning up the harness, etc.

Stev-o · « **Reply #45 on:** November 04, 2015, 06:35:40 PM »

I bolted a large pice of angle iron to the ceiling joists in my garage. I attached a large ratchet strap to it and lift the entire front or rear end up off the ground. Works great.

eoddom · « **Reply #46 on:** November 04, 2015, 07:33:31 PM »

I rent so that probably wont be an option, haha. I guess I could get my 2 ton engine hoist back over here and some chain and get the bike off the ground.

Stev-o · « **Reply #47 on:** November 04, 2015, 08:37:19 PM »

Quote from: eoddom on November 04, 2015, 07:33:31 PM

I rent so that probably wont be an option, haha. I guess I could get my 2 ton engine hoist back over here and some chain and get the bike off the ground.

It's just 3 large lag screws, no damage would be done that a little sparkling can't fix (if you have sheetrock)

Engine hoist should work great

eoddom · « **Reply #48 on:** November 07, 2015, 05:13:21 AM »

I'm gonna go grab my engine hoist today and see how it works out.

I plan on starting the tear down today now that the bike is running pretty alright. My biggest goal here was to hear the bike run and to take it for a ride around the neighborhood. That will be the driving force that gets me through having this thing in pieces and keeping the motivation to put it back together. First thing I'm going to do is buy ziplock bags, a marker and break out the camera...hopefully that will help me remember what goes where on the other side of this.

Also noticed my neighbor doing some cutting and welding on his Jeep Comanche yesterday, so gonna go make friends with him so I can hopefully get some little stuff welded over the winter, haha.

eoddom · « **Reply #49 on:** November 08, 2015, 08:44:46 AM »

So spent a few hours stripping down what I could with the bike on the ground. Once I dove into the wiring, I realized its extremely simple and not as much of a rats nest as I had expected. Definitely gonna have to replace the fuse block. If I make it out to my dads today, I'll have the front fork and rear swing arm dropped tonight. Then it's just figuring out how to get the engine out. Will probably just lay it on its side and lift the frame off of it like others have done in the past.

On a side note, I got laid off this past monday. This is the first time I've been unemployed in years and I'm kind of looking forward to a break. I haven't taken vacation in 7 years so we're going to use this time to travel a bit, prepare for daughter number 2 and relax. I've got standing offers at the 1st of the year so I'm just gonna ride it out and have some fun.

So here's ol nekked bike, just hanging out.

News:

Author Topic: First Bike, First Build, 77 CB550K (Read 6195 times)