Topic: CB 550F Adventure Bike

[grcamna2]

It's funny how certain design styles come and go. I remember thinking how cool a Vetter fairing looked when I was a kid.  Now, it makes me think of Purple Rain. 

I always liked the smaller bikini fairing of the GPz bikes, too -- and still do.

Don't mean to 'thread-jack' but who sells a good quality(don't want an Emgo) Caf'e 1/4 fairing? I had one on a bike in the past and it gave me 'just enough' slippery protection w/o catching much wind.

[Stev-o]

I always liked the smaller bikini fairing of the GPz bikes, too -- and still do.

Me too...guess thats why I had to buy one. Fun bike to ride!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Geez, Steve-o.  How big is plus plus plus?

[MD]

Had a little time this afternoon to take apart the front caliper.  Loosened up the piston and grabbed the flare nut wrenches only to discover I did not have the correct size.  Time for more tools.  This time metric flare nut wrenches. 

The Front Signal assemblies I ordered off e-bay are for a different bike.  Not a total loss in that I needed the lens assemblies anyways.  New plan is to ad a larger Tap & Die set to my tool order.  With a 13 or 14 mm tap and some aluminum tubing, I can make a pair of stays.

-MD

[RAFster122s]

I think the CB125 repop units in chrome are close to the original size for the CB500 and CB550 in 74 and 75 before they went to the fork ears with the ugly big ones and stalk in the lower fork ear.


Ebay sellers have been offering them...


FWIW,


David

[MD]

Took advantage of a little warmer weather to change out the New Chain that was installed last fall.  Rather than cut down the too long chain, I just replaced it with one cut to the correct length for the 550F.  The real challenge was figuring out how to use the chain tool.  No instructions in the box.  Hit youtube and got the basic idea.  The challenge was that the videos I found were all for o-ring chains.  After googling for written instructions, I found which pin to use to flatten out the non hollow pins.  Adjusted the slack, tightened the axial, started the bike on the center stand, put her in first and spun the tire. 

Hopefully later this week I can get the caliper rebuilt.  Snow in the forecast for Thursday.

-MD

[MD]

Initial order of metric flare wrench did not include a 10mm.  Ordered a 8, 10 combo from Amazon.  Even with the proper wrench I could not bust the nut free from the caliper.  Looked further up the brake line and saw a union with the flexible hose.  This one came apart correctly.  Pumped the piston out of the caliper.  Upon inspection saw lots of pitting on the piston.  Decided to  order a new piston and a connecting tube.  With a new tube coming I'll be able to use heat and an impact driver on the old nut.

-MD

[RAFster122s]

Lots of heat and penetrating oil. Don't force it and break it.  You can take some paraffin wax and melt it with the caliper and stuck bleeder and do it on the grill outside as the wax is pretty flammable.  Once it has cooked for about 15 minutes pull it out with tongs with some thick gloves put it in a vice with blocks of wood to pad the jaws. You should be able to unscrew the bleeder or the brake pipe that is stuck. It is an old mechanics trick that works well.

If there is corrosion then back it off a bit then retighten and unscrew again, this can help it from clogging up and breaking....

Good luck.

Harisluv does bleeder or brake pipe repairs and is successful in removing them.
David

[MD]

The fuse box has been getting warm to the touch.  Seeing other threads about how these connections get corroded,  I decided to replace it.  I looked at replacements on line and Hondaman's.  I went for a less expensive option. 

First step was to liberate the mollex connector from the wires.  I used a paper clip to press down the locking tab on the female spade connectors.  This took several attempts for each wire.  I had previously liberated wires with female spade connectors with tabs from some relay holders, 2 blue, 2 black, and 2 white.    The white replaced the red, black to black and blue for brown.  Added some insulated spade connectors for the other end.  The new fuse holder holds 6 fuses which gives me 3 spares.  It is larger than the original so I may have to move some things.

-MD

[RAFster122s]

I believe the quick disconnects that are referred to as an AMP connector whereas a barrel connector is commonly referred to as a Mollex. This is a generic term as many various spade quick disconnects and barrel conmects not made by AMP or Mollex...kind of like Kleenex...

[MD]

I believe the quick disconnects that are referred to as an AMP connector whereas a barrel connector is commonly referred to as a Mollex. This is a generic term as many various spade quick disconnects and barrel conmects not made by AMP or Mollex...kind of like Kleenex...

I am not surprised.  Its sorta like spanner verses crescent.

-MD

[MD]

Took the mapp torch to the caliper and connecting tube today.  The color of the parts did not change but old brake fluid started smoking.  The heat loosened things up enough that I was able to remove the old connecting tube.

-MD

[MD]

Got the front brake reassembled last week. 

I then moved on to the pesky turn signals.  The front running lights were working but not the front and back signals.  Pull apart and dielectric greased connections under the seat and the connections under the tank.  Pulled each bulb and put a film of grease around the outside of the base.  Ran a test wire from the battery to feed for the rear lights.   Both lit up.  Cleaned the switch, still not lights.  I had an automotive flasher relay, so tried it.  Lights started blinking. 

Put the bike back together and went for the first ride of the season.

-MD

[MD]

It has been a while.  The bike now has new 70/30 tires and a new chain.  I decided to have a shop put these on.  I did not count on it taking from late October to December.  The day I drove it home was above freezing when I started riding but as I went through some higher elevations I hit black ice.  30mph never felt so fast as that ride.  Here is what the bike looks like now.



-MD

When running the twenty plus year old tires last year, the bike did not have any wobble.  I now know the wobble I felt was not ice.   The rear bearings are loose.  Took the bike for the first run of the season, a ten mile run yesterday, first half gravel.  Rear end felt a little loose but I just attributed it to the gravel surface.  On the return run down the highway I felt it as well.  Put it up on the center stand today and was able to wobble the tire without the axial moving.  Why did I not test for this before?    Time to order new rear bearings.

-MD

[MD]

Got the bearings replaced     It get to pick up a new cotter pin tomorrow and go for a test ride.

-MD

[MD]

Did the test run and am happy to say the wobble is gone.   

The bike has great power for the first few miles of a run then looses it.  It will then do momentary surges of power.  I am hoping that checking/adjusting the float heights and replacing the intake boots will fix the issue. 

-MD

[MD]

While waiting on the Carb parts, I started working on the fun stuff.  Got the tip bar attached today.  If I still had the stock pipes it would have been easier.  These Mac pipes stick out more than stock.  I could not use the engine mount bolts for the lower attachment point.  What I did was to get a pair of 1 inch u-bolts and place them on the frame in front of the engine mount.


I did snag a replacement tank last fall.  After the carbs get fixed, it will be plumbed in.

-MD

[MD]

Took the old fairing off.  That required mounting new turn signals.  The stays were unavailable so I ended up printing them on a 3D printer.  Got them mounted yesterday and wired in today.



-MD

[MD]

It took 3 hours longer that it should have, but I got the bike to maintain highway speeds today.  First step was replacing the main jet holders and adjusting the floats.  I actually had to adjust the floats twice.  After getting the carburetor mounted I discovered no gas was reaching the bowls.  I left the carbs mounted and removed the bowls and re-adjusted the main jet holders.  I also replaced all 4 carburetor insulators and their clamps. 

First leg of the test ride was on 2+ miles on a gravel road that was freshly graded.  Power seemed better so I swung over to the highway and road back toward the house.  Speed was good so I went for a 60 mile run about a third on gravel.  On hard pack gravel 45mph felt pretty stable.  On the loose pack 30-35 felt more secure.  The return run was on highways. 

It has been over 35 years since I have run a bike without a windshield.  I was glad I had a lined jacket on since the temperature was about 50.  Shorter runs and really hot weather I can see how a bare bike would be nice.  I will be putting a windshield back on since I intend to do some long runs.  We don't get reliable warm weather until July so the wind protection will make riding more pleasant.

I did try standing for a section of the gravel run.  I am going to have to get a riser kit for the handle bars.  These bikes were not designed for someone over six foot.

-MD

 

[MD]

Sawbill Lake 05 01 16



-MD

[MD]

Did not get to ride this week.  Had a second main jet fall out.  Ordered new o-rings.  Priority mail shipped it from CA to GA to MN.  Hopefully it will be delivered Monday.

Worked on getting both the auxiliary and main tanked plumbed in.  1/4" line running from the back tank to a T then to 3/8" Y with 3/8" line running into the carbs and main tank.  The auxiliary tank has its own inline filter and shutoff near the tank.  The main tank has a new tank sock filter and gasket. 

Mounted the Slipstreamer Friday.  It took awhile to get it high enough to clear the head light.  The brackets going the the headlight bucket could use a little more length.



Took measurement of my computer case to see what size of pannier I would want.  Measurements were close to a 20mm ammo can.  With the can dimensions I created a mock-up out of cardboard.  What I found is that the mock-up can sit on the rear foot pegs and be lower than the seat.  The forward position is too close the the front.  The solution will be to move the rear turn signals rearward closer to the brake light.  This would allow the pannier to be moved so that he rear foot pegs can be used.

-MD

[RAFster122s]

MD,


Where do you get a 5 gallon Touring Tank?  Does it have a fuel pump?
Just curious on its story. Do you need the 4.5 gallon main and the 5 gallon touring tank?  What's your range with both?


Thanks!
David

[MD]

MD,


Where do you get a 5 gallon Touring Tank?  Does it have a fuel pump?
Just curious on its story. Do you need the 4.5 gallon main and the 5 gallon touring tank?  What's your range with both?


Thanks!
David

 I found the auxiliary 5 gallon tank at coyote-gear.com.  It is gravity fed.  I have been riding with just auxiliary tank connected so far this spring.  On long steep hills there has been some fuel stuttering.  I have not yet done a proper mileage check on the bike since its resurrection so I do not have accurate total range numbers.  My memory from twenty plus years ago is 30 MPG.  Not counting the reserve tank or the bottom of the extra tank, range should be at least 240 miles.  I intend on doing some long distance runs this summer. Not having to stop for four or more hours will be nice.

-MD

[MD]

Gremlins have attacked the floats again.  Filled the main tank with fuel and turned on the gas.  Had gas dripping from 3 overfill tubes.   . 

-MD

[RAFster122s]

Uh, that sounds like you left the petcock from the aux tank on...or something /someone turned it on.