Author Topic: Newbie wants to learn about preventive maintenance on exhaust & gas tank  (Read 2029 times)

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Suke

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Hi all,
I've searched around on all the different sources on the webite and couldn't find information regarding this (or atleast anything that I was able to understand ;)) so hopefully you can help me out a bit. Sorry if this is such a basic question, but I'm new to this and trying to learn. My bike is a '73 CB 350F Four.

1) What are some daily preventive maintenance tips I should do on my 4 in 4 exhaust to make sure they stay as good as possible?

2) Will it be a problem if I was just to ride it a few miles at a time?

3) What can I do to make sure the inside of your gas tank stays as good as possible? Do you put oil in your gas for this? If so, how much, what kind, how often, etc.?

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! And yes, thank you!
« Last Edit: May 28, 2005, 11:20:03 AM by Suke »

Offline SteveD CB500F

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Well...   Everyone has their own views on this.

1) I squirt WD40 down the 4 pipes on both my 500 and 550 about once per month.
2) Yes. Engine wear is at it's greatest when the oil is cold and thick. The exhausts need to get hot to burn out the moisture from condensation, likewise the oil needs to get hot to expell moisture (ever seen "mayonaise" on the inside of your dipstick?)
3) Keep it full of petrol (gas)

Steve
SOHC4 Member #2393
2015 Tiger 800 XRT
1971 CB500K0 (US Model)

smithrelo

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Suke, Linda Here,

I would highly recommend that you check the condition of the fuel coming from your tank to the Carborators.  There are 4 "float Bowls" that I found had accumulated a LOT of debris, rust flakes, carbon yuck.  The shocking thing was that less than 300 miles ago, my bike (550 4 - 1974) had been completely cleaned up and carboratores were rebuilt at that time.  I know bike shop cleaned float bowls, because I had new gaskets in the float bowls!

So, what I'm trying to say,  is check your float bowls, and if they are full of debris - you should consider having the inside of the gas tank "acid washed." 

What I discovered was that even though carb kit and general maintenance had been good, the tank itself has (over 30 years) accumlated debris.  (Go to "Bronco Bike is sick" thread for instructions on checking float bowls.)  That thread has exact instructions on cleaning float bowls.    They are easy-simply turn off petcock to stop gas from tank, look under the bowls for brass screw, loosen that screw and catch the 2-3 Tablespoons of gas that come out.  You'll see junk right off.  If gas is clear- you've got a good tank and no debris to worry about

I'm going to be sure to check my float bowls every 30 days, just to make sure the acid wash on the tank took care of the problem.  I'm figuring if I see rust flakes, I need to either "line" the tank, or buy a new tank.

Hope that helps, and I'll watch to see what they recommend here, as I too need education on general maintenance tips. 

Linda

don_m

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There are small drain holes in the front, bottom of the mufflers which clog.  Clearing them will help some but the other suggestions as to spray WD-40 in the pipes & running long enough to heat them up are still valid.
Cheers, Don Psycle Madden.

Offline TwoTired

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While short runs are somewhat better than no runs, it is not the best for bike longevity.
The whole fuel system is nearly self cleaning when constantly flushed by frequent operation.  Condensation inside the fuel tank occurs in the air pocket of a partially depleted tank.  Kept full, this condensation is minimized.  Products such as Sta-Bil are also supposed to help remove water from the fuel.  Water and oxygen are all that is needed to form rust on the interior metal surfaces of the tank.

Each cool down cycle of the machine causes condensation to occur inside the engine and exhaust pipes.  It's just like the condensation formed on the outside of your cold drink glass.  Where did it come from?  The humidity in the air.  The engine, exhaust pipes, carburetors, and fuel tank are all vented to the atmosphere.  Therefore, moisture has ready access to all those pieces.  To rid the bike of this moisture, the machine must be operated long enough to achieve maximum normal temps and then held at that temp. for about 20-30 minutes. This allows the water to be heated, vaporized and ejected from the machine either out the exhaust or out the engine breather tube.  The engine breather tube connects to its own filter within the air filter box.  This filter can block up with oil/water and inhibits further moisture exiting from the crankcase.  During the cold, rainy season here in California, I’ve noticed this filter blocks up in as little as two weeks of daily 30 minute driving intervals with my CB550. If I neglect to clear the breather filter, in another two weeks the dipstick will begin showing white glop, which is water/oil mixed.  (It does look like dirty mayonaise!)

Why is water in the oil bad?
Except for synthetic types, oil is made from organic material.  When this organic material makes contact with water, amino acids begin to form. The acids react with metal, converting them from metal to, well, something else.  The result is the removal of metal from the inside of the engine. Eroded bearings, gears, and such do not a happy engine make.

 The stock pipes have weep holes located at the low points of the exhaust system to aid in eliminating accumulated moisture buildup.  These should be periodically checked for blockage and cleared if necessary.

I should note that even if you don't run the machine at all, daily heating/cooling cycles will still cause moisture buildup inside the machine.  I’ve seen for sale huge bags that entire vehicles are placed into along with bags of dessicant and then sealed for long term storage.  I can see that if you drain out all the fuel and oil, this ought to work out pretty well for preservation.

Hope this Helps,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Suke

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Thank you all so much for your help! I'm definitely going to pay attention to all your points so I make sure my bike stay in as good of condition as possible. It's pretty intimidating since I've never had a bike before and none of my friends are really into bikes, so I am very grateful you all are willing to help me. Thanks!

Offline Harry

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Tankwise, I put some twostroke oil in the fuel, it coats the tank and the inside of the pipes (pipes rusting from the inside is common on these bikes)- never had a problem with plugs fouling etc.....probably because I have a rule which says I only use my SOHC for rides of over 30 mins, so the condense water in the pips gets a chance to burn out. For shorter rides I use my old two stroke. Prepare new pipes by pouring oil into them before mounting, and go for a ride to burn the oil fast to the pipes. Bung oily rags up your exhaust after every ride to stop circulation of moist air.
Harry Teicher, member #3,  Denmark....no, NOT the capital of Sweden.

eldar

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Most may disagree with this but for startup, use a lighter oil. I use 5w-30. It flows faster and warms up quicker than 10w-30 yet still has the same heat range. It is also better if running in colder weather. You can also find some oils that are synthetic and work with wet clutches.