Topic: Bike won't turn on, what should I check?

[mrfish2]

Everything has been fine with my 550 for the past few weeks, as in zero issues. Today i rode over to Advance Auto (about 3 miles) to buy some headlight bulbs for my truck. Had no issues on the way there. Upon coming out of the store I put the key in the bike, turned it, and nothing happened. No lights are coming on whatsoever.

None of the fuses are blown, and as soon as I get it home I'll check the voltage on the battery. If the battery has juice what should I check next? I'm at a loss here.

[flybox1]

any and all block connectors

[mrfish2]

Battery has 12.7 volts. What do you mean by block connectors? The white plastic ones?

[flybox1]

What do you mean by block connectors? The white plastic ones?

yes
specifically the one off your ign.

turn your key to ON...and watch for the tree lights to come on/flicker

[mrfish2]

Okay, in the meantime another question: if the starter solenoid was bad would it cause this to happen? At the solenoid post where the positive battery cable connects I have 12 volts, but at the second post it doesn't read anything.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Ignition switch (most likely) or kill switch (lights should still light) could be fried if all your connectors are up to snuff.

[turboed13b]

Okay, in the meantime another question: if the starter solenoid was bad would it cause this to happen? At the solenoid post where the positive battery cable connects I have 12 volts, but at the second post it doesn't read anything.

You should be reading battery voltage at that post so 12.7 should be it. Correct about the other post being 0v.

I bet the ignition switch is dead.

[mrfish2]

All the connections are up to par, nothing is corroded and I can't find anything disconnected.

I bet the ignition switch is dead.

That's what I'm starting to lean towards. Does it make sense though that it would just all of a sudden crap out? And how would I go about testing the ignition switch? I'm still not sure how to even get it off the mounting point, it's never been something I've had to deal with till now.

[Restoration Fan]

If it's one of the later models where the ignition switch is on the triple tree and not underneath the frame, make sure that the wiring connector plug is connected tightly into the ignition switch.  Just reach underneath there and push it to make sure it's firmly seated.

[mrfish2]

If it's one of the later models where the ignition switch is on the triple tree and not underneath the frame, make sure that the wiring connector plug is connected tightly into the ignition switch.  Just reach underneath there and push it to make sure it's firmly seated.

Mine is a 76, it has the switch on the side below the tank.

Double check the actual terminals at the battery to insure they're tight. It would not surprise me that vibration has caused either side to not make proper and full contact.

Just checked, both are tight as a drum.

I also unplugged the ignition switch from the main harness to check continuity. Someone tell me if i did this right: the plug of the igniton switch has 4 female connectors, with a black, red, brown, and brown/white wire. I know the black and red wires dictate power to the coils and bike, so I touched my multimeter leads to the black and red female connectors. With the key in the run position I was getting continuity, so it seems the switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere.

[Gene]

Fuse - gotta be.

[mrfish2]

I'm getting 12 volts where the main 15A fuse plugs in

[Vinhead1957]

No headlight no running lights ??

[Restoration Fan]

If your fuse block is even the slightest bit "rusty", take it off the bike and soak it for a few minutes in a solution of white vinegar and salt.  Just put about 2 teaspoons of salt in a solution that is deep enough to submerge the entire copper portion of the terminal.  Leave it in for about 4 or 5 minutes.  Rinse off the vinegar then dry the fuse block.  (I then used blown air from air compressor to ensure it was completely dry).  Your copper will literally be like brand new.

We had a similar issue that doing this resolved.  Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it will keep the fuse block's tarnishment from becoming a problem.

[mrfish2]

No headlight no running lights ??

Turn the key and zip, nothing happens. No lights, no starting, no nothing.

If your fuse block is even the slightest bit "rusty", take it off the bike and soak it for a few minutes in a solution of white vinegar and salt.  Just put about 2 teaspoons of salt in a solution that is deep enough to submerge the entire copper portion of the terminal.  Leave it in for about 4 or 5 minutes.  Rinse off the vinegar then dry the fuse block.  (I then used blown air from air compressor to ensure it was completely dry).  Your copper will literally be like brand new.

We had a similar issue that doing this resolved.  Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it will keep the fuse block's tarnishment from becoming a problem.

Thanks for that tip, but my fuseblock is the Hondaman special so it's brand new. It was one of the first things i replaced on the bike.

[Vinhead1957]

So 12v at fuses new style. Did you check the frame ground to see if it's loose ? One on engine mount bolt and the other by the seat latch.

[HondaMan]

Try this: jumper between the RED wire (or battery (+) terminal) and the BLACK wire at the voltage regulator. If it lights up the OIL and NEUTRAL lights (and maybe the headlight), the keyswitch has melted inside. If it is an EMGO keyswitch, a new one will do it again, very soon. Use Honda's own Keyswitch if yours is bad, or if a new EMGO comes along, add one of my Key Switch Saver relays, which will help for a while. But...the EMGO switches also physically break, as mine has, so try Honda's own if you need one? It's worht the extra $$, IMHO...

[Duanob]

Try this: jumper between the RED wire (or battery (+) terminal) and the BLACK wire at the voltage regulator. If it lights up the OIL and NEUTRAL lights (and maybe the headlight), the keyswitch has melted inside. If it is an EMGO keyswitch, a new one will do it again, very soon. Use Honda's own Keyswitch if yours is bad, or if a new EMGO comes along, add one of my Key Switch Saver relays, which will help for a while. But...the EMGO switches also physically break, as mine has, so try Honda's own if you need one? It's worht the extra $$, IMHO...

+1 I think its ignition switch. No lights no nothing. All electricals are controlled by the Ig switch. If it was just a main fuse I think you will still have lights.

[mrbreeze]

Okay, in the meantime another question: if the starter solenoid was bad would it cause this to happen? At the solenoid post where the positive battery cable connects I have 12 volts, but at the second post it doesn't read anything.

You should be reading battery voltage at that post so 12.7 should be it. Correct about the other post being 0v.

I bet the ignition switch is dead.

The battery positive at the solenoid should be hot. The other large one should go hot when you hit the starter. Check your battery voltage when you are hitting the starter. If no dash lights come on with the key on and the main fuse is hot (on both sides) you have a bad connection. You say the battery shows 12 something volts but that is without a load. Also.....try wiggling the harness connector at the ignition switch with the key on and see if the dash lights up. Bad batteries do all kinds of weird sh!t as do bad connections. Have you tried jumping the battery?

[mrfish2]

I've wiggled on everything, even gone as far as taking the airbox off to gain better access to the backside of the electrical panel. I'm fairly certain it isn't the ignition switch because it's giving me continuity when disconnected, and I'm getting 12v from the main harness where the ignition plugs in.

Just now I tried Hondaman's suggestion. Connected a wire to the positive side of the battery, disconnected the black wire going to the voltage regulator, and touched the wire i hooked up to the battery to the male end of the voltage regulator with the switch on, and nothing happened. Then touched my wire to the female plug (the one that connects to the regulator) and still nothing happened.

Now here's the kicker: i think i accidentally touched my wire to the frame next because i heard something that sounded like a spark, and now I've got all my lights back and the bike starts and runs fine. What in the world did i do??

[Restoration Fan]

Sounds like you have a short somewhere.

[mrbreeze]

Your bike is possessed! Seriously....sounds like something is loose and you temporarily made a connection. It may take some head scratching and lots of investigating but if you stick with it you'll find the problem. It's not fun to have to worry each time you go for a ride.

[Sprocket75]

I would certainly spend some quality time chasing down the short...otherwise you'll wind up like me. Stranded on the side of a back road, out of cell range of course. That was a long, 4 mile walk in boots in the July heat.
Mine was caused by the ignition switch block being pulled loose just enough when I would turn the steering to the right. Took some time to figure that one out believe it or not.
Anyway, when it comes to wiring, process of elimination is your friend. (and maybe a cold beverage...or two)

[mrfish2]

Yeah it's gonna take some time to find this gremlin!

So everything was working after shorting the battery, then yesterday i turned it on, pressed the starter button, and everything went dark again. I thought "okay cool, that gives me a good place to start tracing wire." Well, in the meantime i tried the "hot wire" trick again, and everything lit back up except my tail light. For kicks i turned the key off and back on to see if everything worked still, and wouldn't ya know it, no lights came back on!

Feels like there is a ground somewhere not making good contact, the hard part is just finding it.

[madmtnmotors]

Feels like there is a ground somewhere not making good contact, the hard part is just finding it.

That was going to be my suggestion. The main ground should connect to the engine mount at the right rear of the engine, above the rear brake lever. Take this connection loose, clean the cable end, clean the part of the engine where this ground connection is made, clean the contact point where the cable end touches the bracket (where it will sandwich this ground connection to the engine), and maybe clean some paint off the back of the bracket as well as off the frame where this bracket bolts to the frame. Might clean the threads where this bracket bolts to the frame too.