New disk and springs should be here Monday. I measured my springs and they we're blow the limit. When i pull the clutch there was just no spring tension. New springs should fix it 
Well....here's a few tips, to help you wade through the myths and incorrect parts we are getting today, and how they will affect your "F" clutch:
1. Get some calipers or a 1" micrometer to measure the plate thickness, you will need it. Harbor Freight sells a passable set of calipers for $10 that will work well enough for this project.
2. The plates shown in the pic above are NOT Honda plates. They are someone's aftermarket plates. This is where the problems begin. The (proper) springs in your clutch are slightly longer than the early CB750 springs, and measuring them is important, but ONLY if you are sure of both the ones you SHOULD have, and the ones you NOW have. For example, if someone put springs in from a K0-K6 bike, they are shorter than the ones you need. In that case, measure the new ones you are getting, to make sure they are the right length for the "F" bike like yours, or the first problem (soft lever) will reappear. And, if you are measuring 'early' springs, their full length is shorter than the worn-out length of "F" springs.
3. The OEM clutch plates for the bike are supposed to be 0.141" thick when new. Chances are, you are about to receive plates just like the ones you just removed, which will be about 0.135" thick. Since the worn-out spec in these bikes is 0.131" thickness, you're starting out with seriously worn plates: we have seen this happen a LOT since 2010 when these plates started getting mixed into our 'generic parts supply' houses. The thinner ones belong to modern superbikes, and the only dimensions they share with our engines are the OD and tab sizes: the plates are thinner because the superbikes have more clutch plates. The moral here is: measure your new plates before attempting to use them. Also: the top plate on the "F" clutch is different from the other plates in the stack: it has slant-cut cork blocks on it, and wider tabs around the outside edge. There is also 1 'double plate' in the stack, sometimes found just under this top plate, sometimes found as #4 plate in the stack. This 'double plate' consists of 2 steel plates riveted together with leaf springs between, to make a cushion plate. If the clutch was "modded' per Honda's service bulletin about "rattling clutch issue", then this plate has been replaced with a very thick solid steel plate instead, from a GL1000 clutch.
4. Measure your metal plates. If someone installed "modern" metal plates, they are ALSO thinner than the OEM plates. The combination of thinner steel and thinner cork plates leaves you with an unusable clutch, as it will not engage, regardless of spring pressure.
There are some things that can be done, if you don't opt to buy Honda's OEM parts (I get the correct ones from South Sound Honda, myself...). This involves modifying some things in the plate stack, adding plates, changing plates, etc., but first and foremost, you have to start by measuring the thickness of the new plates you're getting AND the metal plates you have. So, report back when the new plates arrive and you measured them? Then we can possibly help out intelligently.
