Author Topic: Samauto II RC1080cc, RC crank and Golden rods, 327 cam etc, CB750 Automatic (Read 52270 times)

kmb69 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:27:18 PM »

Quote from: 754 on January 22, 2016, 07:24:54 PM

Last on to right has some marks on lower cutout..dont look fresh.

Picture looks like BOTH valves hit that #4 piston at some point. Sure better check rod, crank, piston, pin, cam, springs, and valve height on that one to see what's different.

Is that a stroker crank?

POPS 911 · « **Reply #126 on:** January 23, 2016, 05:39:39 AM »

Question on 750A motor lock up : I OWN and ride a street bike 1976 CB750A with 14,000 miles and I also have 4 - 1978 CB750A that will be DRAG bikes and if the problem could be found then I could check to make sure my MATIC'S are safe. PC I could care about less, saving me or another rider a bad day at the track is my concern, er er er er those 30 years with me on those fire trucks makes me think knowledge and safety FIRST and the MEDICARE folks might #$%* about paying a crash bill for a 73 year old " should have known better "

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #127 on:** January 23, 2016, 05:55:11 AM »

[/quote]

Picture looks like BOTH valves hit that #4 piston at some point. Sure better check rod, crank, piston, pin, cam, springs, and valve height on that one to see what's different.

[/quote]

i noticed the same thing!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #128 on:** January 23, 2016, 05:59:52 AM »

Yep, me too! Also the #3 took a hit by sumpin to the left of ex fly cut! More later, boxing up parts to ship, Bill

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #129 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:18:21 PM »

Well, whether you need it or not...if you keep reading. ..then you going to Automatic school 101!! Here you go, about to pull engine, got to pull oil pan first. Pulled the T/C cover. To do so you pull the little chrome cover, the easy part. Then the little cover, when it pops off..make damn sure you retrieve spring and plunger! Then to pull assembly, you gotta pull the little CAST snap ring, breaks if you look at it funny, and yes they are N/A!! Be careful Mikey! Lol.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #130 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:20:34 PM »

This is what you get, straight out of a 75-80 Honda Civic!!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #131 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:44:48 PM »

OK, here you go, small splines furtherest out from engine spin sumpin,converter? ....or it rides there, when countershaft spins, the converter spins also.. Next splines in don't turn. Last large one the crank spins.. The large one spins independent of others. The small one does the same. Now is where it gets interesting!! Look in here!!

, Bill
When the engine is running it spins the large splined gear, however the gear it mates to inside T/C free wheels if you try it off the bike. Learning.....

.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #132 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:14:21 PM »

So if you're riding down the track/road, anytime the engine has a chain hooked to a c/shaft sprocket it's got to be spinning the T/C, the T/C rides on the little shaft, it's splined to it. So engine running the big spline gear is spinning, engine cuts off, it quits spinning. Now got to see what it's driving inside the T/C! Stator? Engine cuts off bike should freewheel with only the T/C to drive. We going figure this sh×t out!! Video of mo stuff tomorrow, IC sounds for Dragracer!! Hehe!

dragracer · « **Reply #133 on:** January 24, 2016, 12:43:10 AM »

Keep it coming Bill.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #134 on:** January 25, 2016, 06:46:38 PM »

OK, here you go, don't forget these 2 orings.1st pic.
Oil pan off, has a one way door, falls out easily.
Pull the screen also before pulling engine or BE.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #135 on:** January 25, 2016, 07:20:06 PM »

Look Ma, it's no K or F!
Think I can ditch this, appears to be kickstarter etc.
3rd pic you can see primary chain

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #136 on:** January 26, 2016, 04:11:09 PM »

I believe that they kicked this 1080 a few times!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #137 on:** January 26, 2016, 08:37:23 PM »

Yes it's bent! Guide not cracked, K, Bill

scottly · « **Reply #138 on:** January 26, 2016, 08:47:30 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on January 22, 2016, 09:27:18 PM

Quote from: 754 on January 22, 2016, 07:24:54 PM
Last on to right has some marks on lower cutout..dont look fresh.

Picture looks like BOTH valves hit that #4 piston at some point. Sure better check rod, crank, piston, pin, cam, springs, and valve height on that one to see what's different.

I see the marks now..

754 · « **Reply #139 on:** January 26, 2016, 08:48:27 PM »

Bill I think you need a big block power bar for your cords.. Hope you got av20 am fuse on that..

dragracer · « **Reply #140 on:** January 26, 2016, 10:55:44 PM »

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on January 26, 2016, 08:37:23 PM

Yes it's bent! Guide not cracked, K, Bill

Bill, would you mind measuring that valve from the tip to the face?? I'm in investigative mode right now and need that bit of info.
Thanks

gschuld · « **Reply #141 on:** January 27, 2016, 01:22:13 AM »

Frankie,

This I should a Manley SS k head intake valve. In millimeters and inches. That's what you are looking for right?

George

MRieck · « **Reply #142 on:** January 27, 2016, 04:44:29 AM »

Is that a 32mm intake valve in there?

POPS 911 · « **Reply #143 on:** January 27, 2016, 05:57:56 AM »

Told at the PRI SHOW in INDY in 2012 those Hondamatic valves are different, but KIBBLEWHITE rep said they could make them easy from a blank [ BLACK DIAMOND VALVES- BLACK NITRONEG STEMS ]

TurboD · « **Reply #144 on:** January 27, 2016, 06:10:37 AM »

The automatic and K valves are the same, as far as I can tell the complete head is the same. In completely stock form the last Auto head that I flow tested, actually out flowed any previous K head.

For any performance build, I would prefer to start with a auto head.

MRieck · « **Reply #145 on:** January 27, 2016, 06:15:00 AM »

I asked because I would throw a 33.5 valve in there and bore the seats without even thinking about it.

I have seen more than a few of those old Cobra heads with stock size intakes.

gschuld · « **Reply #146 on:** January 27, 2016, 07:38:16 AM »

Quote from: MRieck on January 27, 2016, 04:44:29 AM

Is that a 32mm intake valve in there?

Yes it is. It is from a 32/28 set out of an 836 head.

kmb69 · « **Reply #147 on:** January 27, 2016, 07:55:26 AM »

Quote from: TurboD on January 27, 2016, 06:10:37 AM

The automatic and K valves are the same, as far as I can tell the complete head is the same. In completely stock form the last Auto head that I flow tested, actually out flowed any previous K head.

For any performance build, I would prefer to start with a auto head.

TurboD, Yes, the valves are the same for 300 and 392 castings. The 392 castings were apparently used on 75-6F's, 77-8K's, and 76-8A's. The 75A, only sold in Canada, used a 300 casting. As I look at the 392 casting along side a 300, it appears the intake spigot bores are better matched to the casting - probably resulting in better flow rates. The valves also appear to be slightly less shrouded in the chamber. Have you by any chance had an opportunity to flow a Sandcast head?

MRieck · « **Reply #148 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:05:00 AM »

Quote from: kmb69 on January 27, 2016, 07:55:26 AM

Quote from: TurboD on January 27, 2016, 06:10:37 AM
The automatic and K valves are the same, as far as I can tell the complete head is the same. In completely stock form the last Auto head that I flow tested, actually out flowed any previous K head.

For any performance build, I would prefer to start with a auto head.
TurboD, Yes, the valves are the same for 300 and 392 castings. The 392 castings were apparently used on 75-6F's, 77-8K's, and 76-8A's. The 75A, only sold in Canada, used a 300 casting. As I look at the 392 casting along side a 300, it appears the intake spigot bores are better matched to the casting - probably resulting in better flow rates. The valves also appear to be slightly less shrouded in the chamber. Have you by any chance had an opportunity to flow a Sandcast head?

I'd say you are correct sir.

TurboD · « **Reply #149 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:23:16 AM »

I should have been clearer with my comment, I was comparing the auto head to the later K (75-78) and 75-76F heads and not the earlier heads. In general for performance builds I like the later heads.

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Author Topic: Samauto II RC1080cc, RC crank and Golden rods, 327 cam etc, CB750 Automatic (Read 52270 times)