Author Topic: "Mile High" CB350 Four project (Read 32535 times)

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #100 on:** March 10, 2017, 06:29:36 PM »

No turning back now!

After a couple test runs on the old subframe I got brace and started with welding on the hoop:

So far so good! It's nice and level and centered up as best I can tell. Need to pick up a 1" hole saw tomorrow so I can miter the stays and start welding them on, along with the shock mounts.

calj737 · « **Reply #101 on:** March 10, 2017, 06:59:34 PM »

It's going to be quite the looker!

Enjoying the new Synchro? I've been playing with a new wire that I've been really impressed with, Weld Mode 880. It welds like 312, but it's got better elongation. If you grab some 1/16" you can slick it in at a lower temp around that stock thin tubing with not blow through.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #102 on:** March 10, 2017, 07:05:43 PM »

So far no blow through, but I'm staying conservative I'm in the 90s for amperage and not giving it a full pedal. What do you recommend for amps? First time with anything more than my old Century 100 wire feed, so total apples and oranges! My welds so far are nowhere close to what I would consider pretty but I'm getting good penetration I think. Dipped the tungsten a few times...

calj737 · « **Reply #103 on:** March 10, 2017, 08:03:05 PM »

1/16 tungsten, 1/16" wire, probably max of about 60 amps. Rellay clean the outside and inside of the stock tubes. I tack in at least 4 places around the tube. Weld half 3-9 from the bottom, then 9-3 over the top.

If the Synchro has pulse, that's even better. Bump up to about 80 amps, set your pulse to 1pps, 33% background and 33% on time. Move when it pulses off, add when it pulses on. This really helps control the heat input and allows a consistent weld.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #104 on:** March 10, 2017, 08:15:36 PM »

Thanks for the tips Cal. I suppose it does make sense and is more consistent to go lower with the amperage but keep the pedal floored. It does have pulse, I'll give it a go with some practice runs tomorrow.

innovativems · « **Reply #105 on:** March 10, 2017, 09:03:13 PM »

I spy an rc51! I have an 03 track bike. Btw loving the 350!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

calj737 · « **Reply #106 on:** March 11, 2017, 04:18:43 AM »

Quote from: Denver_Larry on March 10, 2017, 08:15:36 PM

Thanks for the tips Cal. I suppose it does make sense and is more consistent to go lower with the amperage but keep the pedal floored. It does have pulse, I'll give it a go with some practice runs tomorrow.

You really shouldn't need more than 60 amps due to the thickness of the stock tubing (0.063). Perhaps the new hoop is thicker and that's why you're using more heat? If so, tack them together about 8 times around the joint. Then, light up on and focus your arc on the new tubing and wick over as you need. I'd also drop to a #5 cup if the two tubes are rather different in thickness. That will isolate the HAZ more to the thick side.

I know several times when welding up stock tubes I end up running in the high 30s to low 40s after I get going, especially as I work uphill because the heat is really accumulating quickly. Thats why with small diameter, thin stuff I work in 2 halves, top and bottom instead of 6-12, 12-6.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #107 on:** March 11, 2017, 07:45:54 AM »

Exactly, the new material is 0.083 so I dialed into the 90s and was throttling back a bit. But being brand new at TIG it wasn't the best for consistency. I only have the stock 3/32 tungsten for the moment.

calj737 · « **Reply #108 on:** March 11, 2017, 01:08:48 PM »

Invest in a good set of gas lenses and 2% lanthanated tungsten. You can buy a "stubby gas lens kit" through Weldmongerstore.com (https://weldmongerstore.com/collections/bundles/products/tig-hardware-bundle)

This will get you most everything you need to TIG well. The gas lens is really important with TIG to get better, even coverage, especially around tubing (which is about the most difficult thing to weld). Couple days of practice and you will be a pro!

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #109 on:** March 11, 2017, 01:54:07 PM »

Ad hoc tubing cutter....

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #110 on:** March 11, 2017, 03:26:25 PM »

Well that TOTALLY didn't work! Lol. Grinder it is....

calj737 · « **Reply #111 on:** March 11, 2017, 04:14:21 PM »

I saw that rubber footed clamp and said to myself, "Well, I wonder how that will turn out?"

Do you have any angle bar? If so, you might try laying the tube in it, then clamp the tubing down to it and try again. Or, tube beneath the angle, clamp angle down onto tubing. Small diameter tubing wants a high speed and plenty of cutting fluid.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #112 on:** March 11, 2017, 05:26:26 PM »

I actually did strap it down close to the cut before I started but there was just too much movement everywhere to get a decent cut. I bailed on that idea and resorted to the cutoff wheel/grinder and got it pretty decent after some fine tuning. Done for the night, things started getting sloppy so it's time for food! Got the shock mounts tacked into the plates before I called it for the night though.

NobleHops · « **Reply #113 on:** March 12, 2017, 12:46:58 PM »

Crazy mad skills there Larry. That hoop looks like it grew there.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #114 on:** March 12, 2017, 01:10:44 PM »

Thanks Nils but I can't take credit for the vast majority of it, I just measured and welded. Cliff Meyer is the man who made it.

palepainter · « **Reply #115 on:** March 12, 2017, 02:15:13 PM »

Nice work modding the frame. What part of Denver are you in?

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #116 on:** March 12, 2017, 02:32:14 PM »

Saudi Aurora. You?

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #117 on:** April 16, 2017, 08:53:51 PM »

Looking into a new battery for the project and my RC, and want to get into one of the newer lithium ones. Question is, what brand? Speedcell, Shorai, and Antigravity all make what I'm looking for for both bikes. Pros and cons from everyone's experience?

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #118 on:** April 17, 2017, 06:07:44 PM »

Also, a bit of an update on the frame mods... I have things almost wrapped up with all this, I just need to weld in the threaded studs for the battery cage and drill the mounting holes in the cage itself. I think I'll do some studs for the Motogadget brain and rectifier/regulator as well and then I can finally send it to powder coat!

NobleHops · « **Reply #119 on:** April 21, 2017, 09:36:46 AM »

EXCELLENT

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #120 on:** April 21, 2017, 10:55:29 AM »

What's going on there with your RC?

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #121 on:** April 21, 2017, 11:12:49 AM »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on April 21, 2017, 10:55:29 AM

What's going on there with your RC?

You mean my other money pit?!

That's the daily. Only 5k miles on it so far, picked it up last fall. It's got quite a few silly mods (rear brake, titanium hardware etc) at the moment, some more meaningful suspension upgrades will happen later this year hopefully.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #122 on:** April 22, 2017, 06:35:42 PM »

Finished up getting the seat pan mounts built and welded in today. All I have left now is to weld in some threaded studs for the battery mount, and I think I'm going to change up how the rear of the tank is secured. The original mount is kinda chunky and ugly and will likely be visible still after the seat is upholstered. I want something similar to how a modern sport bike tank is secured at the front, with a couple rubber isolated bolts.

THEN I can finally get it powdercoated!

HondaMan · « **Reply #123 on:** April 22, 2017, 06:48:30 PM »

Can I make a small suggestion about the seat underpan? A drain hole, for those wet days?

Just a thought...I still remember the rusted-away frame tubes on the 750K1 where some of the holes did not get drilled in production.

Denver_Larry · « **Reply #124 on:** April 22, 2017, 07:08:51 PM »

Quote from: HondaMan on April 22, 2017, 06:48:30 PM

Can I make a small suggestion about the seat underpan? A drain hole, for those wet days?
Just a thought...I still remember the rusted-away frame tubes on the 750K1 where some of the holes did not get drilled in production.

Sure you can! There is actually some gaps built in around the shock mounts, and the front end of the tray will be stay wide open.

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Author Topic: "Mile High" CB350 Four project (Read 32535 times)