Topic: brake pad installation

[gloken]

I'm in the process of going over the front end of the bike, and I replaced the brake pads. The old ones were greasy from a leaking fork seal.

I've read a couple different manuals' instructions on replacement, and none of them have much to say about what causes the things to stick in place. Do I have to do anything, other than apply some light grease to the back? The thinner of the two pads seems to be wiggling loose already, and I don't even have the wheel on.


I need a sanity check here. I think I'm doing this right, but I don't really want my brake pads falling off on the highway if I'm wrong.

[PeWe]

My new pads  had a thick layer of powder coat on the area that should move smoothly in in the caliper. Sanded it off and it worked well.
Before assembly pumping the piston in out some times, sprayed the piston with lithium grease so the seal got lubrication..

Caliper holder with hinge must be lubricated and adjusted too.

[DaveBarbier]

Yeah, you'll most likely need to file or sand off the paint/powder coat. The pad should be able to slide in and fall out of the caliper. The thin layer of a high vacuum grease on the back helps retract the pad as the piston pulls back. You need to use a high temp grease like Dow Corning that won't melt at high temps or the grease will liquify and run on to the pad surface... greasing your pad, bad! Apparently regular brake grease doesn't cut it.

You only want to use brake fluid, brake lube and a high vacuum grease. I'd avoid anything else. I don't really know what lithium grease is but from what I've read, anything other than brake fluid or brake lube can contaminate the brake fluid if put on the piston or seal.

Two Tired lays it out pretty well: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=104349.msg1215995#msg1215995

[Bodi]

The pad on the wheel side should have a little cotter pin (through its hole and the caliper's little hole) that loosely holds it in during caliper assembly. Once on the bike there's no way either can fall out.
The usual problem with pads is that the piston side one is too tight, that's when you have to sand down the outside of the steel backing plate a bit.
I would not use lithium grease on anything in the caliper, it melts and runs when hot. Silicon lube (dielectric grease) or special caliper lube is best, very sparingly.

[flybox1]

please read this...

read this before you assemble anything...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,56544.0.html

This thread has gotten very confused.  Lets' review.
There are four products needed to restore a caliper.
1. Brake cleaner
2. Brake parts assembly lube for the caliper seal only.
3. Dow corning High vacuum grease.
4. Brake fluid

Each has it own specific application and needs for the task to be performed.

#1 is used to get everything clean.  (given the confusion, it had to be said)
#2 is used ONLY on the seal and must be compatible with #4, as some of it will invade the brake fluid chamber.
#3 is NOT used on the seal, as that would put silicone inside the brake fluid chamber.  This is a bad thing as the compounds are incompatible.  It is used behind the brake pads and a thin coat is used on the parts of the calipers and piston that are exposed to the elements and subject to water ingression.  The Dow Grease will not mix with ANYTHING.  It is a simple barrier with the very important property that it will NOT melt when the parts get hot and then run/creep into the brake pad friction material and provide lubrication between pad and disk rotor.
#4 is what makes the hydraulic part of the brake function. (I hope that part is clear.)

The "Permatex® Counterman’s Choice® Ultra Disc Brake Lube" I have NOT used.
It is NOT to be used in the #2 application (directly on the caliper seal, as that would put some inside the brake fluid vessel and is clearly NOT it's intended application).

Depending on it actual composition, it may be suitable for the #3 task, IF and I stress the IF part, it will not melt/run into the brake pads.  The brake pads/rotor interface are where you WANT fiction!

Previous discussions in this forum were regarding Syl-Glyde, which I have personally tested and can pretty much guarantee that it will run/creep into the pad to rotor interface.  It only contains silicone as a minor ingredient.  The rest of this (Syl-Glyde) compound cannot take the 500F plus heat that the Dow corning grease can without doing a phase change.

The remaining question is whether Permatex® Counterman’s Choice® Ultra Disc Brake Lube will run/creep into the brake pads/rotor, especially when it gets hot, in this application on the Honda brake caliper.
I don't have any, I haven't tested it, you use it at your own risk.  I do know the Dow corning silicone grease DOES work properly and certainly appears to be the same stuff Honda used during production assembly.
I admit I am skeptical.  The last time a counterman recommended a product for #3 application, it was Syl-Glyde which, if he were still working behind the counter, I'd be tempted to make him eat.

[DaveBarbier]

please read this...

read this before you assemble anything...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,56544.0.html

This thread has gotten very confused.  Lets' review.
There are four products needed to restore a caliper.
1. Brake cleaner
2. Brake parts assembly lube for the caliper seal only.
3. Dow corning High vacuum grease.
4. Brake fluid

Each has it own specific application and needs for the task to be performed.

#1 is used to get everything clean.  (given the confusion, it had to be said)
#2 is used ONLY on the seal and must be compatible with #4, as some of it will invade the brake fluid chamber.
#3 is NOT used on the seal, as that would put silicone inside the brake fluid chamber.  This is a bad thing as the compounds are incompatible.  It is used behind the brake pads and a thin coat is used on the parts of the calipers and piston that are exposed to the elements and subject to water ingression.  The Dow Grease will not mix with ANYTHING.  It is a simple barrier with the very important property that it will NOT melt when the parts get hot and then run/creep into the brake pad friction material and provide lubrication between pad and disk rotor.
#4 is what makes the hydraulic part of the brake function. (I hope that part is clear.)

The "Permatex Counterman’s Choice Ultra Disc Brake Lube" I have NOT used.
It is NOT to be used in the #2 application (directly on the caliper seal, as that would put some inside the brake fluid vessel and is clearly NOT it's intended application).

Depending on it actual composition, it may be suitable for the #3 task, IF and I stress the IF part, it will not melt/run into the brake pads.  The brake pads/rotor interface are where you WANT fiction!

Previous discussions in this forum were regarding Syl-Glyde, which I have personally tested and can pretty much guarantee that it will run/creep into the pad to rotor interface.  It only contains silicone as a minor ingredient.  The rest of this (Syl-Glyde) compound cannot take the 500F plus heat that the Dow corning grease can without doing a phase change.

The remaining question is whether Permatex Counterman’s Choice Ultra Disc Brake Lube will run/creep into the brake pads/rotor, especially when it gets hot, in this application on the Honda brake caliper.
I don't have any, I haven't tested it, you use it at your own risk.  I do know the Dow corning silicone grease DOES work properly and certainly appears to be the same stuff Honda used during production assembly.
I admit I am skeptical.  The last time a counterman recommended a product for #3 application, it was Syl-Glyde which, if he were still working behind the counter, I'd be tempted to make him eat.

+1 That's the thread I was trying to find

[strynboen]

go for some pads vho had this facon at the back side..they are for sohc calibers vho not are parelel moving.but turns i a radius..the pad backside must kompensate for this..and need to be moveabel to self sentere to the disc...some flat pads can not get full kontakt before they are weared inn for longer time..and the screming are a resultat of this..
then no need for packing any sealing/silicone at the back side to take vibrasions

[gloken]

Perfect, thank you, this answered all of my questions.