Author Topic: KO basket, i think? YUP! Gonna bring back to life...... (Read 22658 times)

754 · « **Reply #50 on:** December 22, 2015, 12:38:02 PM »

Should have warned you , there are springs and rollers in the starter mechanism on the back of the rotor...they lock the gear to he crank when starting.... Might be ok, but rotor should be pulled off to check them later.. ..need a puller for that..

pipeguy · « **Reply #51 on:** December 22, 2015, 02:44:46 PM »

Thanks for heads up, I am going to pull it once I have the cases clamped on crankshaft.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #52 on:** December 22, 2015, 02:53:08 PM »

pipeguy,
Contact Bill Benton (goes by Bill/BentON Racing on the forum) with a private message about the bent exhaust valve. He has a stash of these bikes and parts that is quite possibly the largest single individual collection in existence. He sells parts to members of this forum at very reasonable prices and is a heck of a good guy.

Ron

754 · « **Reply #53 on:** December 22, 2015, 06:30:31 PM »

You can use the puller with crank on the bench.. Torque it up , give it a whack.... retighten..whack.. Its off... Usually

mrbreeze · « **Reply #54 on:** December 22, 2015, 07:35:31 PM »

Nothing much to say here except I'm wanting to follow along with your build and my name is also Fred. I had a K1 2 years ago for a project but sold it off due to circumstances. Also had a K4....same thing. The K4 would have been easier to get going. The K1 motor was locked and the bike as a whole was in worse shape from sitting out in the elements longer. The K1 would have been the cooler bike of the 2 though. I still have my K5 runner that I've owned since 2000 but it's down for some seal replacement and engine paint at the moment. Have fun with the build.....I'm following.

pipeguy · « **Reply #55 on:** December 23, 2015, 05:28:40 PM »

Thanks for the valve Steve, great to meet you today. This is what this community is all about.

Swoop · « **Reply #56 on:** December 24, 2015, 11:14:46 AM »

No problem. Hope one works for you.
I have a feeling that you may need a couple of more parts.

Steve

pipeguy · « **Reply #57 on:** December 24, 2015, 11:59:30 AM »

I'm sure I will Steve. You were right I did find soome bolts with the #8 on them like you said.

Swoop · « **Reply #58 on:** December 24, 2015, 12:36:47 PM »

Good...hold onto them and reuse them.

Steve

pipeguy · « **Reply #59 on:** December 28, 2015, 06:41:31 PM »

So after all the turkey from the holidays, I needed to get off the couch, so down to basement I went. I was pleasantly surprised how my rotor came out with that metal rescue stuff. I did some plastiguage measurements and prepped my cases for painting. What kind of paint do you guys recommend? Should I use self etching primer first, just regular primer, or just the paint? I also removed my exhaust spigots and crush washers and cleaned everything up. Gonna be busy next couple of days, but next I want to grind my valves and put them back into head.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #60 on:** December 28, 2015, 07:43:27 PM »

Lots of good info here about painting. Some use primer and some don't. Prep is the most important thing and part of the prep is curing the paint. Get on the search function.......people will give good paint recommendations. The color will be up to you.
Check your guides carefully when doing your valves. There's more to it than seating and adding seals. Also shoot for the good seals. There are better ones out there than what the kit will give you.
Keep up the good work man!!

Swoop · « **Reply #61 on:** December 29, 2015, 04:11:42 AM »

I don't think that the K0's used valve seals.

Steve

pipeguy · « **Reply #62 on:** December 29, 2015, 04:50:27 AM »

My head had valve seals. Basket came with 2 sets of jugs, maybe head belongs to second set of cases? I think they are from K2 according to engine #.

pipeguy · « **Reply #63 on:** December 31, 2015, 05:09:05 PM »

Today got to spend a few hrs on the head. Got valves grinded-lapped and installed new seals. Also got all springs in, head complete. Now just have to clean it nice ready for paint. That Metal Rescue stuff is amazing.

pipeguy · « **Reply #64 on:** January 01, 2016, 04:01:26 PM »

Today I was taking apart my drive sprocket to clean stuff up, I have 2 complete sets, but this I one that matches the cases I'm going to use. The other sprocket is 15 tooth, this one is 17 tooth. Which one u think is better? Or would matter to see what I'm going to use in rear? I found this nut-bolt on this one, is this what this automatic oiler I've been reading about? I see a pinhole in drive shaft I can only assume that's for oil to come out of? Thanks in advance.

BPellerine · « **Reply #65 on:** January 01, 2016, 06:34:28 PM »

the hole in the shaft is for chain oiler,came on the earlier bikes,some block it off cause of the mess,the 17 tooth sprocket would give more relaxed engine speed on the highway.bill

mrbreeze · « **Reply #66 on:** January 01, 2016, 07:09:03 PM »

I've also heard the 15 tooth sprocket was on the earliest bikes and contributed to the chain snapping problems that they had which also cracked the cases. I've also heard of battery acid leaking on the chain. I'd stick to the 17 or even an 18.

pipeguy · « **Reply #67 on:** January 05, 2016, 05:38:04 AM »

thanks, do I have to block hole? That screw at end looks like an adjuster? Can it be put to 0oil coming out? Thanks, Fred.

Stev-o · « **Reply #68 on:** January 05, 2016, 06:53:03 AM »

Quote from: pipeguy on January 05, 2016, 05:38:04 AM

thanks, do I have to block hole? That screw at end looks like an adjuster? Can it be put to 0oil coming out? Thanks, Fred.

Yes, it is an adjuster..., just close it off.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #69 on:** January 05, 2016, 08:43:40 AM »

If you haven't already done the painting, a thin coat of a zinc based primer is a good idea. VHT makes one I think, I got a can from JEGS and did a very light coat first. This is a dark green color primer, so easy to spot any missed spots. Then I used their aluminum color, which again, was easy to spray over the dark green and not miss any spots. There are some nice pointers on the painting stuff in my K2 thread, I can dig up some links if you need.

IINM, K0 engines weren't painted from the factory (maybe just a clear coat), so just a bead blasted or better yet, vapor blasted look might be cool too.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #70 on:** January 05, 2016, 09:03:29 AM »

Pretty much did this on my K2 http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,126735.msg1584311.html#msg1584311

pipeguy · « **Reply #71 on:** January 23, 2016, 08:56:13 AM »

So now getting ready to start assembling transition, just bolted lower case to engine stand.

754 · « **Reply #72 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:49:51 AM »

Put everything into upside down upper case, then install lower..shift forks may need a bit of fiddling.

pipeguy · « **Reply #73 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:00:37 AM »

But I would still have to assemble some parts in this case correct? One set of gears and the forks no?

754 · « **Reply #74 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:16:44 AM »

Yes but most goes in upper case..manual wil, show you the order..

News:

Author Topic: KO basket, i think? YUP! Gonna bring back to life...... (Read 22658 times)

Swoop

Swoop

Swoop