Author Topic: 1974 CB 550 Build Thread - "Resto-mod" (Read 13225 times)

strynboen · « **Reply #25 on:** January 04, 2016, 11:57:54 AM »

you cant remove all oilseales in the block...some have cast dots.
.vho fits on grooves in the cast engine block..so thek up!!! before brake them aut...often they dont leakes. so dont hurry to thange any of them
.. oilpump and pressure sensor are more common to leak..
just make the head cylender..pistons and cam thain and tensioner..and all oilseals in the top end..and leave the bottom end..

Stev-o · « **Reply #26 on:** January 04, 2016, 02:16:08 PM »

Quote from: flatlander on January 04, 2016, 09:05:52 AM

yes, that's k3 and f2 models. also, in the parts list you see what engine numbers had the new type covers.
when buying have a picture sent to you (or inspect in person) as years can be misleading and covers may have been replaced on the same engine.

FL - do you have a pic of the pinned cover? You changed yours, right??

flatlander · « **Reply #27 on:** January 04, 2016, 11:15:42 PM »

yes i changed mine. here are some pics of the newer style cover with the pins.
under the breather cover, old style has 4 holes for bolts and new style has 8 holes for bolts and pins. that's the only difference.

i see you put up a wanted ad for a cover. wish you luck finding one!

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 07, 2016, 06:28:42 PM »

Stev-o

I got the cylinder head today. Thanks again for sending it over. It's so nice to see non-stripped plug threads!

This is our wedding anniversary weekend, so I won't get much garage time until Sunday afternoon. I'll keep you posted.

I should get the pinned cover early next week.

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Stev-o · « **Reply #29 on:** January 08, 2016, 06:02:17 PM »

Quote from: Jeffro93 on January 07, 2016, 06:28:42 PM

Stev-o

I got the cylinder head today. Thanks again for sending it over. It's so nice to see non-stripped plug threads!

This is our wedding anniversary weekend, so I won't get much garage time until Sunday afternoon. I'll keep you posted.

I should get the pinned cover early next week.

Ok, glad you got it. Sounds like you found a pinned head cover, great. Turns out my motor is a late K model, so I'm good too.

Remember the other Steve (Pecantree)? Stooped by his house the other day, he was cleaning out his shed and sold me a spare 550 motor for $40. I have no need for it now but couldn't turn that deal down.

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #30 on:** January 08, 2016, 06:31:25 PM »

I would have bought it too! Tell him I said hello.

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Jeffro93 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 03, 2016, 07:16:08 PM »

I haven't been posting, but I have been working. I haven't been getting as much done as I'd like, though. I've finally got a useable head and cam cover combination. I sent the top end parts, hubs and several other items to Nils for vapor blasting on Monday and should get the frame, swing arm and associated parts back from the powder coater next Monday.

I tore into the forks this weekend and that's the source of my current question. When I took them apart, I didn't find the parts that I expected to see. The picture from my Haynes manual shows a damper rod. When I got mine apart, they didn't have damper rods. At first, I thought that the damper rod setup may be for the 500's, with a different setup for the 550's, but I haven't been able to confirm that.

Nils has the fork lowers and I'm hoping to order a new set of fork tubes tomorrow - mine are just way too rusted out.

Manual Image

What I found

Tastey Fork Seal

Stev-o · « **Reply #32 on:** February 03, 2016, 07:58:32 PM »

Hey Jeff.....you have a late model fork. Must have been changed out at some time.

Look at the fiche here for a '78 model....

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2451803&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1978&fveh=131104

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 04, 2016, 01:47:38 AM »

Thanks, Steve. This "dirty but original" bike has turned out to be more dirty than anything. Oh, well. That's all part of the fun, right?

Stev-o · « **Reply #34 on:** February 04, 2016, 05:27:58 AM »

Quote from: Jeffro93 on February 04, 2016, 01:47:38 AM

Thanks, Steve. This "dirty but original" bike has turned out to be more dirty than anything. Oh, well. That's all part of the fun, right?

absolutely! The bike is 40 years old and had at least a few owners, no telling what it's been through.
BTW - what is the plan for the front end? New springs??

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 04, 2016, 06:14:29 AM »

Probably just a stock soaring replacement. I may just use the ones I've got and see what I think. I haven't really researched it yet, though, so I'm open to suggestions and opinions.

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Stev-o · « **Reply #36 on:** February 04, 2016, 06:19:18 AM »

Quote from: Jeffro93 on February 04, 2016, 06:14:29 AM

Probably just a stock soaring replacement. I may just use the ones I've got and see what I think. I haven't really researched it yet, though, so I'm open to suggestions and opinions.

I installed Progressive springs in my K4 two years ago, and honestly, I didn't notice a big difference. And as you know, I ride fairly aggressive.

Def put good shocks on the back, Hagons and Ikon (was Koni) are a good shock and reasonable priced.

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 06, 2016, 07:26:01 AM »

No updates today - think I'll just be hanging out in the garage and cleaning/polishing parts. Hope to order new rims and spokes, though.

I do have a question, though. Steve-O was kind enough to send me a head to use since mine had some stripped plug threads. The valves were bent, however. Though I've got all of this worked out for the project, I'm trying to figure out how the valves got bent. Since I only have the head, I couldn't check the pistons for damage, but the valves don't show evidence of contact with the pistons. It's kind of a head scratcher for me...

Jeff

Stev-o · « **Reply #38 on:** February 06, 2016, 08:29:59 AM »

The PO did not follow proper procedure for installing the head cover. The valves must be loose and use use the "rubber band trick" to prevent bent valves.
Page 59 of the Clymer shows this, the tappet adjuster must be loose so it comes into proper contact with the valve stem. Once you see the pic, you will understand.
Are you ready to install the head cover.

One other thing: did you install new "pucks" to prevent oil leaks?

strynboen · « **Reply #39 on:** February 06, 2016, 08:32:26 AM »

yes ..there is 100% bend valvets ,,if you just clask the cover on and teigten Down...its need some att to Mount it korrekt

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 06, 2016, 11:16:49 AM »

Thx guys. I'm not ready to put it back together. The top end is at Nils shop. It was just something to think about while cleaning parts.

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flatlander · « **Reply #41 on:** February 06, 2016, 12:10:42 PM »

make sure the tappet adjust screws are backed off completely, and when installing the cover pop up each rocker arm with a finger so the screws naturally fall into their position on top of the valve stem. this works for me, i never used the rubber band trick.

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #42 on:** February 11, 2016, 06:19:20 PM »

I've made a lot of progress this week without really doing anything (except keeping my credit card warm...). I got the frame and associated parts back from the powder coater on Monday (looks great - much better than in my crappy pictures). I got the top end, fork lowers, hubs, etc. back from Nil's vapor blasting shop (Restocycle.com) and the new rear rim was delivered today as well. I've got a large order from 4into1 on the way, too. Whew!!!

This weekend, I hope to complete the engine cover polishing and get started on stripping the engine case to prep for paint. Once the engine is done, it's back into the frame. Then lacing wheels, rebuilding the front end (after I get new fork tubes) and then I'll be done, right? $:-\$

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #43 on:** February 11, 2016, 10:02:13 PM »

Quote from: Jeffro93 on February 11, 2016, 06:19:20 PM

I've made a lot of progress this week without really doing anything (except keeping my credit card warm...). I got the frame and associated parts back from the powder coater on Monday (looks great - much better than in my crappy pictures). I got the top end, fork lowers, hubs, etc. back from Nil's vapor blasting shop (Restocycle.com) and the new rear rim was delivered today as well. I've got a large order from 4into1 on the way, too. Whew!!!

This weekend, I hope to complete the engine cover polishing and get started on stripping the engine case to prep for paint. Once the engine is done, it's back into the frame. Then lacing wheels, rebuilding the front end (after I get new fork tubes) and then I'll be done, right? $:-\$

I probably missed this but what's going on with your VIN stamp?

calj737 · « **Reply #44 on:** February 12, 2016, 01:44:30 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on February 11, 2016, 10:02:13 PM

I probably missed this but what's going on with your VIN stamp?

Looks like it was masked off from powder coating and has been left raw? If so, it will rust right there without some protection. Frame and blasted parts look really beautiful.

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #45 on:** February 12, 2016, 04:25:40 AM »

They wanted to make sure that the VIN wasn't obscured by the powder coat. It's taped over for now, but I'll tape the powdercoat off and spray the VIN with a few coats of clear.

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2016, 12:51:09 PM »

That's the first time I've seen that done. PC usually shows through - I've never seen it caked on so thick that it completely obscures the stamp. With clear, it will look cool.

Stev-o · « **Reply #47 on:** February 25, 2016, 05:07:22 AM »

Great looking parts there, Jeff. Should keep you busy for awhile.

Jeffro93 · « **Reply #48 on:** February 29, 2016, 06:39:16 PM »

Quick picture-less update:

The engine cases are painted and the clutch cover, drive cover, etc. are polished. I will hone the cylinders, lap the valves and put the head back together this weekend. I don't expect the new rings to arrive until early next week.

In preparation for having the rings on hand, I would appreciate a few pointers regarding installing the cylinder block onto the cases after a top-end rebuild. This would be a much simpler step with the cases open... I think I've seen a few threads where this was discussed, but I can't seem to find them. Since there's I can't use a sleeve for the rings and need to be able to do two pistons at a time, I really want to know what I'm doing instead of making it up as I go.

Thanks,
Jeff

RAFster122s · « **Reply #49 on:** February 29, 2016, 10:44:27 PM »

the rings have to be compressed to slide into the bores and two at a time... Just be patient and compress them with a sleeve that can be parted and pulled away. Even a hose clamp can do it if you take the time to unscrew the worm drive all the way...just more fiddly.
supporting cylinders on both ends with a board to keep them from making it harder with weight from them pressing down on your work... before it is ready.
Shouldn't need any hammers unless a deadblow plastic as you don't want to force anything and cause more issues with broken ring or worse...

I'm not sure of a good thread to direct you too either off hand...

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Author Topic: 1974 CB 550 Build Thread - "Resto-mod" (Read 13225 times)