Topic: dual front disc clarification of correct mounting

[DH]

See pics..Has anyone done a right side caliper this way? Look at the spacers, fender bracket and caliper mounting
and how that is used to center caliper bracket over rotor. Will this work? Notice how the shim stack includes the
fender brace. It only took a slight nudge inward of the brace, then arranged everything in the order shown and
everything lined up centered. No filing required, and alignment of all parts was accomplished with the two top
caliper bracket bolts only.  The lower caliper mount was shimmed to fit securely to the leg and did not affect
anything else. This seems too easy, but the thing seems to work. haven't ridden it yet, but brakes don't stick
and master cycl working well. Thoughts anyone? This is just a mock up. second pic is deceptive, camera was held at an angle.

[HondaMan]

That's entirely acceptable: does it leave enough room for the metal brake line to pass between the fender brace and the fork leg, without pressing hard up against the fork leg? If it is trapped in between, it will slowly dent the fork leg. While this is not apparent: when the forks are running over lots of bumps, they get warm, even hot, and expand, when this happens, the hard brake line causes a small dent into the fork leg because it won't "give".

The flip side (downside) of mounting the fender brace on the other side (wheel side) of the Tee bracket is: it's real hard to get the wheel out of the front then, maybe even requiring removal of the 2 little 6mm bolts to get it out (along with possibly deflating the tire). This will be less likely with your setup, as you are using the Tee bracket: on those bikes using the right-hand "C" mount it may even require removing all 3 bolts just to get the front wheel free, if you have K0-K2 type forks. 

[Terry in Australia]

All you need to do to remove your wheel is undo the two caliper half bolts, or at least, that's all I do. Way easier than removing the caliper mounting bolts from the forks. Cheers, Terry.

[70CB750]

I had the same setup for RH caliper on the K0.

[DH]

That's good news ...And the fender is near perfect, centered between the fork legs. No interference
problems with the line as well. All I need to do now is to secure the steel line to the upper fender brace. You guys are
correct about wheel removal tho, as it won't be as easy as with a single disc..I took the calipers in half, and the top
bracket mounting bolts do interfere
a little, but a little wiggle will get it out.  Now if I can get by without any other problems
(headshake etc.) I will be a happy boy On a related note, has anyone shimmed the caliper hinge joint to eliminate
the clunking noise? Reason I ask is, I don't know what kind of shims to use or where to get them. Or can they be fabricated?
I did a search, but couldn't find a lot about that particular thing, other than that Honda used to supply select size washers
but they are unobtanum now. A re-sleeved version of the hinge joint would be nice, made from the same material as
Hondaman's swing arm bushings wonder if he'll read this...
Thank you to all who have posted to this. Information like this from folks who have been there really helps.

[flybox1]

Mine is similarly shimmed.
As long as the face of the rotor is parallel to the face of the caliper arm, the caliper should function without the piston and pads binding.
Two small straight edges are really helpful in seeing this.

[01Thomas]

On the early calipers these bolts are inward-facing and that's fine if you only have a left caliper but with dual brakes they obstruct one-another. It is somewhat easier if you have a long ball-end allen key for the cap (allen) screws.

All you need to do to remove your wheel is undo the two caliper half bolts, or at least, that's all I do. Way easier than removing the caliper mounting bolts from the forks. Cheers, Terry.

[scottly]

The easiest way to check caliper alignment is to loosen the mounting bolts on the fork legs and apply the brakes; if the mount gets squeezed up tight against the leg, material needs to be removed. If the mount pulls away from the leg, shims are needed. With stock pistons, there is a very slight amount of wiggle room, but with open-ended pistons there is much less. The caliper needs to be aligned with the B pad sitting flat against the rotor, and this will vary with the thickness of the pad if new, or the angle of the wear if used. The idea is to start out with the pad sitting flat, rather than hitting at the front or back, or top or bottom, which can cause a rather long break-in period. If the B pad sits flat, the A pad will follow.

[DH]

The easiest way to check caliper alignment is to loosen the mounting bolts on the fork legs and apply the brakes; if the mount gets squeezed up tight against the leg, material needs to be removed. If the mount pulls away from the leg, shims are needed. With stock pistons, there is a very slight amount of wiggle room, but with open-ended pistons there is much less. The caliper needs to be aligned with the B pad sitting flat against the rotor, and this will vary with the thickness of the pad if new, or the angle of the wear if used. The idea is to start out with the pad sitting flat, rather than hitting at the front or back, or top or bottom, which can cause a rather long break-in period. If the B pad sits flat, the A pad will follow.

My first objective was to establish correct fitment of pad B against the rotor. For that to happen, all I needed was to add shims
to the top 2 mounting points. After that, a gap ahd resulted on the bottom mounting point, so I filled the gap with appropriate
shims to close it, then bolted it tight.  It turned out pretty close as far as I can tell. I kind of went backwards, but if it gives me any trouble I will do as you have suggested. thanks for the advice

[DaveBarbier]

The easiest way to check caliper alignment is to loosen the mounting bolts on the fork legs and apply the brakes; if the mount gets squeezed up tight against the leg, material needs to be removed. If the mount pulls away from the leg, shims are needed. With stock pistons, there is a very slight amount of wiggle room, but with open-ended pistons there is much less. The caliper needs to be aligned with the B pad sitting flat against the rotor, and this will vary with the thickness of the pad if new, or the angle of the wear if used. The idea is to start out with the pad sitting flat, rather than hitting at the front or back, or top or bottom, which can cause a rather long break-in period. If the B pad sits flat, the A pad will follow.

+1 This is pretty much how I did mine*. Although I like this exact method better. In my opinion it's best to start with both pads already square on the disc and work from there for your measurements.

*I started with the caliper assembly squeezed on the disk but rotated in front of the fork...not mounted at all, just held on the disc by the brake lever squeezing. If it's off the fork completely it's easy to tell how far you need to go and which direction.

[PeWe]

Brake lines to right hand caliper.
- Is the OEM brake pipe a must to use from caliper and up where the hose is connected. Or is it space enough for steel braided line all the way to the caliper?

I have SS lines today, upper and one lower direct to caliper without OEM pipe. The line is a little bit tight between fork and fender bracket that is bent for the brake.
On right side however, the fender bracket has no bend for brake line.

Brake lines for CB750 F1 with dual discs will fit a CB750 K6 too with dual brakes front?
Anyone know any important difference?
Like this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOODRIDGE-STAINLESS-STD-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSES-FOR-HONDA-CB750-F1-TWIN-DISC-1976-/400849973771?hash=item5d5485320b:g:tbQAAOSw-W5UxGl3

[DH]

The easiest way to check caliper alignment is to loosen the mounting bolts on the fork legs and apply the brakes; if the mount gets squeezed up tight against the leg, material needs to be removed. If the mount pulls away from the leg, shims are needed. With stock pistons, there is a very slight amount of wiggle room, but with open-ended pistons there is much less. The caliper needs to be aligned with the B pad sitting flat against the rotor, and this will vary with the thickness of the pad if new, or the angle of the wear if used. The idea is to start out with the pad sitting flat, rather than hitting at the front or back, or top or bottom, which can cause a rather long break-in period. If the B pad sits flat, the A pad will follow.

+1 This is pretty much how I did mine*. Although I like this exact method better. In my opinion it's best to start with both pads already square on the disc and work from there for your measurements.

*I started with the caliper assembly squeezed on the disk but rotated in front of the fork...not mounted at all, just held on the disc by the brake lever squeezing. If it's off the fork completely it's easy to tell how far you need to go and which direction.

I have to agree on that. Thinking about it, the caliper on the rotor, under brake pressure is probably best way to square it all up. I do think I got lucky with mine too    time will tell.

[seanbarney41]

Brake lines to right hand caliper.
- Is the OEM brake pipe a must to use from caliper and up where the hose is connected. Or is it space enough for steel braided line all the way to the caliper?

I have SS lines today, upper and one lower direct to caliper without OEM pipe. The line is a little bit tight between fork and fender bracket that is bent for the brake.
On right side however, the fender bracket has no bend for brake line.

Brake lines for CB750 F1 with dual discs will fit a CB750 K6 too with dual brakes front?
Anyone know any important difference?
Like this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOODRIDGE-STAINLESS-STD-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSES-FOR-HONDA-CB750-F1-TWIN-DISC-1976-/400849973771?hash=item5d5485320b:g:tbQAAOSw-W5UxGl3

PeWe, watch out there!...the F1 did have dual disks...one in the front and one in the back, not 2 in front like we are talking about here.  F2/3 had dual front disks.  Front fender and fork mounts were totally different and will not work on earlier forks.

[PeWe]

Brake lines to right hand caliper.
- Is the OEM brake pipe a must to use from caliper and up where the hose is connected. Or is it space enough for steel braided line all the way to the caliper?

I have SS lines today, upper and one lower direct to caliper without OEM pipe. The line is a little bit tight between fork and fender bracket that is bent for the brake.
On right side however, the fender bracket has no bend for brake line.

Brake lines for CB750 F1 with dual discs will fit a CB750 K6 too with dual brakes front?
Anyone know any important difference?
Like this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOODRIDGE-STAINLESS-STD-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSES-FOR-HONDA-CB750-F1-TWIN-DISC-1976-/400849973771?hash=item5d5485320b:g:tbQAAOSw-W5UxGl3

PeWe, watch out there!...the F1 did have dual disks...one in the front and one in the back, not 2 in front like we are talking about here.  F2/3 had dual front disks.  Front fender and fork mounts were totally different and will not work on earlier forks.

Thanks seanbarney41!
Yes, I missed that very obvious fact
- Best brake line concept? Use the OEM design metal pipes from calipers + hose A+ hose B. Or skip the metal pipe and let the lower (hose A) be longer and connect direct to caliper?

I have no metal pipe today, SS line all the way to caliper. But that is with 1 disc only, different on the other side so I think I'll use metal pipes on both sides.

[Wobbly]

I have no metal pipe today, SS line all the way to caliper. But that is with 1 disc only, different on the other side so I think I'll use metal pipes on both sides.

Would this be for religious reasons? 

[Restoration Fan]

Wobbly, what type of rotors are you running there?  Gorgeous bike, btw.

[Wobbly]

Wobbly, what type of rotors are you running there?  Gorgeous bike, btw.

Thank you. EBCs. If you cannot get the neutral pattern--which was out there briefly, you need to special order the second one for the wing pattern. EBC did make one for me in no time. However, you need to contact them directly. Below a pic of neutral pattern (I don't have a better pic). I was not able to get a second neutral one and they all have the same part number (MD 1062LS). And the retailers cannot help either, are usually clueless (i.e. "there is no such thing"--yeah, right). I have no idea why EBC changed the neutral pattern. Oh well. At least, they were able to quickly help me.

[PeWe]

There is less space for brake lines on my bike. Left one is OK when the fender bracket is bent for brake line. The other side howeer, is different. I need to bend it a little for the caliper holder.

[Wobbly]

Wobbly, what type of rotors are you running there?  Gorgeous bike, btw.

Actually, you already knew the answer: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,74547.400.html

[Wobbly]

There is less space for brake lines on my bike. Left one is OK when the fender bracket is bent for brake line. The other side howeer, is different. I need to bend it a little for the caliper holder.

That does not look good--on neither side.