Topic: Want to Change Out Handlebars on 1972/3 CB500/Four

[whitjonw]

I just acquired a CB500 Four and according to the data plate says 8/1972, so not sure if it is a 1972 model or 1973 model but for this particular inquiry, most likely doesn't matter.

The problem is, that the wires run through the handlebars to both switch housings and I want to know the best way or procedure to undo the wires running through the handlebars without cutting them ? The bars on it now, are narrow type high bars and I want European type, flat bar.....low style handlebars on it. Please help this Honda newb !

[carnivorous chicken]

Disconnect the wires in the headlight bucket, don't cut them.
Pull the bars, unscrew the controls.
Lube (heavily) the inside of the bars along the wires and gently push them through the center hole in the bars, then gently tug from the control side (grabbing the wires, not the controls). Move them 1/4" or so at a time until the wire leads disappear through the center holes, then pull gently.
Spray more lube if you need to. It will clean up later.
Then decide if you want to either notch the controls and run the wiring externally (easier) or try to thread them in your new bars. If the latter, drill appropriate sized hole for wiring, make sure you file the inside lip smooth (otherwise it will cut the housing on your wiring and you will have shorts), tie fishing line (or something equivalent) around the end of the wiring with a weight (a nut, e.g.) on the far end, and dangle the thread until you see the nut in the hole in the center of the bars. Pull it through, then slowly push/pull the wiring through the hole until your control is seated.
No need to redrill the hole for the peg inside the control -- I delete them and have never had a problem with my control twisting on the handlebar as long as it is tightened down enough.
If you are notching the controls, hold the control in a vice, get the wiring out of the way, and have at it with an angle grinder until you have enough room to run the wiring on the bottom side of the control. File that down as well so it won't bite into the wiring.
Piece of cake!

[Don R]

 I'd get bars that are drilled already, otherwise what CC said. you may need to remove the old hard wire shroud and replace with shrink tube or new wire shrouding. It takes lube, pushing, pulling and patience to feed the wires back in. I tape the ends where the pull wire (string) attaches and try to make them tapered by staggering the ends and folding one or two back.

 Check out cb400F handlebars too.
 Flat drag bars make things on the bars hit the gas tank sometimes be aware of that too.

[Stev-o]

Will look so much better with super bars.  I would not bother with putting the wires in the new bars.
Your going to need new cables (throttle and clutch) and a brake line too. 

[dhall57]

Whitjonw, your CB500 looks to be in a similar state of needing plenty of loving  like my 10/71 CB500 that I picked up a few weeks ago. Looking forward to seeing your bike come back to life

[MoMo]

Here you go as Don mentioned http://www.dimecitycycles.com/7-8-inch-chrome-pre-dilled-supermoto-style-handlebars.html.  And already predrilled for  the switch wires.  I disconnect the old switches with the handlebars still attached to the holders. Having the bars locked in place makes removal much easier.   After disconnecting all switch wiring the the h/l shell, loosed the clamp bolts, rotate the bars so the hole is up and retighten, then lots of lube(wd-40 or silcon spray) with gentle pushing and pulling makes removal easy...Larry

[Chachi]

The bars MoMo linked are a good choice. They are 400F replica bars. I've heard good reviews of the replicas DCC sells, I believe they are made by EMGO. You can also search/post here or eBay and find a used set of actual 400F bars, but the repros should be fine. The 400F bars work well on a 500, I had a set on mine. They are pre-drilled to run wires and to install left and right hand controls, etc. Start planning on where to source throttle cables (A and B), clutch cable and upper brake hose - you will ideally need shorter lengths of all. There are ways to reroute stock length, but shorter will work better. There might be some posts on here about it. I can't remember how I did my 500 cables. For my 750 there was a good guide on here with part numbers from Euro spec models that used lower bars and shorter cables.

This is the 400F bar part number:
53100-377-000
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_5157/

Some posts:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,112250.msg1260931.html#msg1260931
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,101285.msg1131425.html#msg1131425

[Duanob]

I put 400F bars on my 550F and they ended up being too small. Made my shoulders sore from riding. Went back to 32" dyna-wide bars (500/550 bars are 32") and all is better.

[whitjonw]

Thank you all so much for the very detailed and very informative replies ! I like the idea of those 400 bars and may go that route, many thanks for the links and part number. I did order a set of 32" wide Euro Superbike type bars made by EMGO a few days ago, so will try that out first. dhall57, I will definitely take pics and such throughout the process and my goal is to have it ready to ride in the spring along with my '74 CB750.

[Scott S]

 I find it helps to wrap up all the bullet connectors into a point or....bullet...so that they don't snag on anything inside the bars while you're pulling them out. Sorta taper the tape and connectors down to a point. I usually use blue painters tape.

[Chachi]

The width on the bars that DCC sells says 27". I think stock 500 bars are maybe 29.5". So they are a little narrower than than stock and definitely lower rise. I got a used set of 400F bars and I think they were 24" wide. It didn't bother me on a 500, but I wouldn't do it on a 750. Renthal makes really nice 7/8" bars in different rises, but they are not drilled.

http://road.renthal.com/shop/road-products/road-handlebars/road-se-bars

Just something else to look at.

[whitjonw]

Looks like the 400 bars are out as 27" is way too narrow for me.

[Stev-o]

Jusr slap on some super bars and and be done with it!

[whitjonw]

That's what I have on the way !

Jusr slap on some super bars and and be done with it!

[Deltarider]

The lower bars are the ones you want and will give you the feeling you are riding a bike. You're more in it and not on it. I suppose it was a marketing thing to let the US Honda's have the higher bars. Honda knew their markets and that in the US motorcycles were more of an extra plaything next to the car everybody owned. Moreover, it was dead easy for US citizens to get a licence and ride a motorcycle. In those days bikes were cheap, Americans were loaded with money, craving for toys and Honda wanted to make their bikes as accessible as possible, meaning to all kinds of people, including those that actually were a bit afraid of riding (women maybe?) and preferred to sit upright (the 'sit up and beg position' as a British Motorcycle magazine commented). The result of this sit up and beg position is that all the weight is undivided on the bum. You can't ride long with your back upright, all the weight concentrated on your bottom and the upper half of your body fully catching the wind.
It's probably because of the film Easy Rider  that thousands have wrongly concluded that that must be the right riding position for long distances. But, hey, in spite of what the film is about, those two (Hopper and Fonda) were never longer on their bikes than the minute it took to complete the take. When watching the film I can almost feel the pain. Especially Hopper must have suffered even when the shots were short. Maybe Honda also calculated there were more fat bellies than elsewhere or that bikes were more used for shorter rides like around town than in other markets. If you're not obesed, I strongly recommend to have the lower bars and ride the bike as it was ment. Better for your butt too. Anyway, the pic below shows what Honda ment to be the riding position, but in my opinion even that is too upright.

[whitjonw]

Right on Deltarider. I have low bars on all of my bikes. The new bars came in last night, so will start on getting the CB500 bars changed out today and will post pics.

[whitjonw]

Okay, got the bars changed out and only feeling semi victorious ! That is because the switch housings cannot be mounted as they are currently. Of course, that is because they are designed to have the wires running through the handlebars. I am grateful to you guys for the advice and direction on how to pull the wires out without cutting. Worked like a charm for the most part. Just a few squirts of WD-40 here and there and not to bad. Hardest part was fighting the now hardened plastic sheath of a wiring cover....but got through it. New bars are mounted, they look good and feel good when sitting on the bike. Now, to conquer the switch housing fitment dilemma and to get all of those wires hooked back up and the headlight housing back in place !!!!

[carnivorous chicken]

Be careful if you are going to try to thread the wiring through the bars -- see previous comment.
You can notch the controls and run it externally as well. Some people grouse about this, but later Hondas had external wiring stock.

[whitjonw]

Cool man, can you expand on this notching out process ? Pics would be great as well. Thanks for your help so far !

[MoMo]

For future reference, when feeding hardened sheathing through the  handlebars soften it first with a heat gun-works like a charm...Larry

[carnivorous chicken]

I use an angle grinder with a wide wheel. Clamp the control in a vise, tape the wiring out of the way, and grind a small notch on the bottom side of the controls. Obviously be very careful not to touch the wiring with the wheel. And use a small file or sandpaper to finish it so the wiring doesn't get damaged by the notch. You want your notch to be as small as possible -- just enough to get the wiring through.

[whitjonw]

Great, I will give that a try. Thanks

[Stev-o]

Cool man, can you expand on this notching out process ?

I used a hacksaw to make two cuts and then a pair of pliers to break out the piece and create the notch. 

[whitjonw]

I purchased a die grinder to do the job and will get to it next weekend. Can't wait !

I used a hacksaw to make two cuts and then a pair of pliers to break out the piece and create the notch.