Topic: Minimalist Vintage Cafe Racer Project - 1978 CB550k

[MacaveliMC]

The bolts heads are starting to strip! even with these JIS bits, I can't get some of them to break clean.....

One if them I used my clamp and clamped the socket wrench down hard on it, and managed to turn it and break it free, but I tried the same thing on the bolt in the last picture, and it just destroyed it.....any ideas??

I usually tap them gently with a small hammer.
If they start to strip, stop. Do not allow the head to strip to the degree show in your photos.
Get a 3/8" extension and hammer (firmly) the now flared JIS head flat.
Insert the correct JIS bit and gently tap to seat it fully before trying again. 
Repeat as necessary. Some of those are so far gone that you might have to drill the heads off.
See if you can get Vise-Grips on them and free them up. Good luck.

Hmmm, ok I'll give it a try.  But if they won't budge, I have a feeling I'll be using screw extractors....which I'm OK with, since I'll be replacing all these bolts anyway.

[Zaipai]

Hmmm, ok I'll give it a try.  But if they won't budge, I have a feeling I'll be using screw extractors....which I'm OK with, since I'll be replacing all these bolts anyway.

Good luck man, I will be watching as I have to do this same thing this winter.

.: Scott :.

[MacaveliMC]

So I have left handed drill bits....but what happens if I get all the way through and it hasn't broken free?

[MacaveliMC]

Haha ok, I'll give it a try, thanks!!!

[FunJimmy]

Just drill the heads off the screwed fasteners.
You'll be able to get Vise-Grips on the protruding screw once the cover is removed. Piece of cake!

[MacaveliMC]

Just drill the heads off the screwed fasteners.
You'll be able to get Vise-Grips on the protruding screw once the cover is removed. Piece of cake!

How do I do that without damaging the head cover?

[FunJimmy]

How do I do that without damaging the head cover?

6mm or 1/4" drill straight down the centre.
You only have to drill about 5mm before the head will spin off with the drill bit.
That leaves a bit of screw shaft to get the Vise-Grips locked on.
Go slow. It's not difficult.

[Zaipai]

6mm or 1/4" drill straight down the centre.
You only have to drill about 5mm before the head will spin off with the drill bit.
That leaves a bit of screw shaft to get the Vise-Grips locked on.
Go slow. It's not difficult.

I actually did that exact thing on my CB750 and it worked like a charm!

.: Scott :.

[MacaveliMC]

Well I apologize for not giving any updates for a while, but you know, the holidays and such...what do u not think I have other things to do?? Family to see?! Friends!?

I won't answer any of those

Anyway, so I DID get the head cover off - I ended up drilling just like what was suggested! 4 or 5 bolts I can't remember, only nicked the head cover on a few of them, but all in all not bad! Then next off came the head, and then the block! And then each individual piston was removed.  Quite a bit of build up on the piston heads themselves, but the cylinder walls looked great!

Last night I soaked the head, breather cover, and engine block in a bucket of pro strength simple green mixed 1:3 with water (highest concentration recommended), and it cleaned up the head cover and breather cover brilliantly.  They're pretty much ready to tape off and paint now! (or I might attempt to make the breather cover shine, we'll see...)

The block however, seemed to take a bit more soaking.  The paint was starting to come off with my brass brush, but I wanted it to sit more than the 3 or so hours the other parts did.  Plus the gasket would't budge.  I'm guessing I'll be using gasket remover with that, and a plastic putty knife, but I refuse to use a blade like so many people suggest on forums.  If I mess up, I know which metal will lose, and I'd rather just take my time and get it off without that risk.

Sorry no pictures, I'll get some up soon!

Oh also next step: figure out how to get these valves and springs out of the head so I can soak that next!

[MacaveliMC]

Well, currently trying to remove gasket material from the bottom of my block......so frustrating.  I absolutely refuse to use something that could scratch the aluminum, I'm shocked how many people actually recommend using a razor blade.  But so far I've soaked the thing in Permatex and all but destroyed my plastic scrapper, and the thing will barely budge....I'm thinking about either just giving my block and head to a shop and just having them remove the gaskets and re-finish the surfaces anyway, or maybe trying to aircraft stripper.....any thoughts?

[754]

 If you take it o shop, they will use a razor blade... Box cutter type knife works even better..

[Retro Rocket]

Well, currently trying to remove gasket material from the bottom of my block......so frustrating.  I absolutely refuse to use something that could scratch the aluminum, I'm shocked how many people actually recommend using a razor blade.  But so far I've soaked the thing in Permatex and all but destroyed my plastic scrapper, and the thing will barely budge....I'm thinking about either just giving my block and head to a shop and just having them remove the gaskets and re-finish the surfaces anyway, or maybe trying to aircraft stripper.....any thoughts?

If you trust yourself, use a nice sharp metal scraper, they work well, and if used PROPERLY won't scratch a thing, A single sided razor blade works too, once again, used properly. The only thing that will scratch the aluminum is yourself.....

[MacaveliMC]

Hahaha exactly, that's the problem.  Trusting myself.  If the shop scratches it, they know they're now liable.  If I scratch it, I just look like an idiot 

I'm gonna try this permatex scraper I just got, but......can anyone tell me, is this a really bad idea?

[Retro Rocket]

I've never used heat to remove a gasket but it shouldn't  hurt, if you keep the flame moving, I've always used sharp scrapers, and I use a little WD40 or something similar to help the blade/scraper slide and not grab....

[MacaveliMC]

Hmmmm, I may try it....I got a tiny bit more off with the Permatex scraper, but the rest of it seems so baked on there, I can't get the edge under it at all, and the edge is already mostly destroyed.

[Retro Rocket]

I have a scraper like the one in the link, its a thin paint type scraper or putty knife, I've had it for about 30 years and I still keep it sharp and use it regularly, Being thin I find its more controllable, use on a shallow angle and don't use too much force, I always use it 2 handed on fiddly jobs like stubborn gaskets... Mine is like the one in this link except I have rounded off the corners a little so its not jagged...

http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-125PC-4-Inch-Flexible/dp/B000OC4YUG

[MacaveliMC]

Hmmmm ok, well I think I'll save that as a sort of last resort, I really don't trust myself not to get frustrated and end up pushing too hard.

What about Aircraft stripper? I've seen that stuff instantly eat paint, any idea what it'll do to this gasket?

[Retro Rocket]

Hmmmm ok, well I think I'll save that as a sort of last resort, I really don't trust myself not to get frustrated and end up pushing too hard.

What about Aircraft stripper? I've seen that stuff instantly eat paint, any idea what it'll do to this gasket?

We don't have, or I haven't seen aircraft stripper in Australia, if it works, try it, you'll still need something to clean the surface with, there's always stubborn bits, try some steel wool, or a scraper....

[754]

I have a gasket scraper, t just does not work for what we need. ( I suspect they may work well n cast iron parts.)
When i was shown how to use the razor knife, I knew it was the answer. Sometimes it gets between gasket and case and just effortlessly removedl huge long pieces ..
 Its a more cutting from the side deal than pushing from the top with the Caveman Scraper.

[MacaveliMC]

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW it has been SOOOOO long since I posted this topic 

sorry about the delay guys! But sometimes, life happens...*cough* marriage *cough*...and you gotta put projects on hold for a little bit. Can I get an amen...

ANYway, here's a QUICK update: I started by tearing the bike absolutely to pieces after riding it home, realized it ran like a complete dog turd, tried doing some basic tuning, and with no luck I gave up completely (read:was really lazy). Every piece now sits individually in my basement either on the floor or in a bag, with the exception of the engine which I promptly put on an engine stand and took of the valve cover, head, and block.  Then I tried to start removing gasket off of the block, which is where I became bogged down as you can see from the last posts on this topic, and after I succeeded in getting most/all the gasket off the block, that is where life stepped in and side-lined the entire project...

But I'm BACK baby! And my resolve is stronger than every! I was disheartened with the prospect of removing all the paint off the finned engine pieces, but I obtained a soda blasting gun for Christmas one year, and I finally decided to try it out! and GOOD LORD that thing is awesome! Cleaned up my block SO fast! So now I have a vision forward....involving these current steps:

1. Finish putting the engine back together, and paint it!  I've already cleaned up the block with the soda blaster, but I'm gonna put it on the engine, and put tape over the cylinder openings, then use the soda blaster on the entire engine to clean it up before prepping for paint. I'm going to do the head separately just because of all the openings on it.  Then I'll put the head on, bolt the head and block down, prep for paint, and then paint!

2. The carbs. Thank goodness for Brian Barnes and his how to for cleaning and rebuilding the PD46A carbs....well, mine are PD46C carbs (printed on side), but I'm hoping it's similar enough that I can kinda follow along and do just as good a job.  Carbs will be disassembled, cleaned, and all gaskets will be replaced, plus float bowl screws because...well, last I checked, they're kinda messed up...like, different screws, lengths, not sure what the PO did...plus, I'll be throwing in a larger pilot jet and main because I'll be building the bike with pods and a 4-into-1 exhaust with the baffle removed - MOAR AIR FLOWS! I've literally spent this whole week reading about tuning carbs, my head is gonna explode...

3. The frame! Got lots of tabs I need to cut off that I won't be using. I'm cutting off the rear end of the frame, and putting a frame hoop on.  Need to pick up seat pan first, and adjust for length, but once I do that, I'm sending it to a dealership nearby who will do some quick welds, and send the whole thing off to get powder coated.

4. I figure after I get the engine, carbs, and frame ready, it's basically a slow roll.  I'll take my time either polishing up or painting suspension and wheel parts. rebuilding things like brake caliper, master cylinder, rear brakes, ect. Slowly putting the bike together.  Eventually I'll get to the point where it's time to build the new wiring harness.  Fortunately this is where it gets easy for me, since I'm an electrical engineer 

So that's basically where I'm at!  I do have one question that I've been pondering lately (read: in the last couple hours)....

Does anyone know how the oil pressure switch works electrically? Is it just a normally on switch that the oil pressure triggers to keep off? Then when/if your oil pressure drops to far, the switch triggers back on and turns on your oil warning light? Just curious, not even sure how/if I'll even wire it yet....probably a good idea tho I suppose 

Edit: Forgot about the gas tank! I just stripped all the paint and currently it's sitting with Metal Rescue in it to get rust out.  Shortly I will be prepping it for paint, then painting it.