Author Topic: From Sh*tty to Shiny: Sbeckman7's CB350F Cafe Resto (Read 64982 times)

MoMo · « **Reply #325 on:** May 13, 2016, 08:09:28 PM »

agree on the 3 piece as opposed to one. I broke a single oil ring whilst installing the cylinder onto a 90cc. It was a hecho en china special...Larry

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #326 on:** May 24, 2016, 11:20:58 AM »

Another annoying update.. I was ready to finish up the engine yesterday and button it all up when I couldn't find 2 of the brass washers required by the head studs! I will check if a local hardware store has these but as they are somewhat specialized I can see having to order them online as a real possibility

So yesterday became a day to work on my car instead. If anyone has some of these washers laying around they wouldn't mind shipping on my dime please let me know!

zammykoo · « **Reply #327 on:** May 24, 2016, 11:53:55 AM »

Quote from: sbeckman7 on May 24, 2016, 11:20:58 AM

Another annoying update.. I was ready to finish up the engine yesterday and button it all up when I couldn't find 2 of the brass washers required by the head studs! I will check if a local hardware store has these but as they are somewhat specialized I can see having to order them online as a real possibility So yesterday became a day to work on my car instead. If anyone has some of these washers laying around they wouldn't mind shipping on my dime please let me know!

Are you refering to part #90441-422-000? You should be able to find it at the hardware store, if not try auto parts store.

If you're not finding any luck, I'm planning to make a trip out to the next town this weekend to pick up some spare parts from a guy that rebuilt a couple cb350f's. I'll keep an eye out for that for ya!

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #328 on:** May 24, 2016, 03:07:47 PM »

Quote from: zammykoo on May 24, 2016, 11:53:55 AM

Are you refering to part #90441-422-000? You should be able to find it at the hardware store, if not try auto parts store.

If you're not finding any luck, I'm planning to make a trip out to the next town this weekend to pick up some spare parts from a guy that rebuilt a couple cb350f's. I'll keep an eye out for that for ya!

That's the one! I'll let you know when I get back from the shops today, thanks for the thought!

MoMo · « **Reply #329 on:** May 24, 2016, 08:15:27 PM »

I have a couple extra, I can slip two into an envelope and send your way if necessary...Larry

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #330 on:** May 25, 2016, 12:45:24 PM »

Larry to the rescue!

Today seems like the day to start tearing apart my old wheels.. Let's see how that goes!

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #331 on:** May 31, 2016, 04:58:54 PM »

A sincere and heartfelt thanks to MoMo (Larry) for sending me the last two washers needed to button up the top end of my refreshed motor. That's the kind of action that takes this website from being a forum to a community, and I hope I can pass the favor on one day to another member in need. With that said, I've just finished torquing the head studs down to 15 lb-ft and will check them again in a few minutes

Good thing I took pictures when I took it apart or I would not have guessed that the longer double-threaded nuts go where they do!

calj737 · « **Reply #332 on:** May 31, 2016, 05:32:58 PM »

You need to wait longer than a few minutes. More like overnight. Then release all the stud nuts, then re-torque to final spec.

MoMo is top shelf!

MoMo · « **Reply #333 on:** May 31, 2016, 05:38:25 PM »

Thanks for the kudos guys. It has taken me quite a few years to learn that "it is better to give than receive"...Larry

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #334 on:** May 31, 2016, 06:02:46 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 31, 2016, 05:32:58 PM

You need to wait longer than a few minutes. More like overnight. Then release all the stud nuts, then re-torque to final spec.

MoMo is top shelf!

Cal, you're saying to keep everything torqued down overnight, then release and do it all over again tomorrow? Does this apply for used head studs as well or just new ones?

While I'm here, I'm having a very difficult time getting the cam back in with the sprocket and timing chain... Seems like there is not enough slack in the chain! My method is to put the sprocket on the chain and then slide the camshaft in, but I can't get past the lobes on cylinder 2 as the thicker flange of the cam hits the head and won't budge. What am I doing wrong?

MoMo · « **Reply #335 on:** May 31, 2016, 06:06:53 PM »

Chain off sprocket, sprocket and cam in place and then slip chain into place...Larry

Bootsey · « **Reply #336 on:** May 31, 2016, 06:52:57 PM »

If they are the same sort of sprocket setup to the 550's, there is a great post in the FAQ's on how to fit the camshaft and sprocket. Reply #7.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,369.0.html

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #337 on:** May 31, 2016, 07:02:49 PM »

Quote from: Bootsey on May 31, 2016, 06:52:57 PM

If they are the same sort of sprocket setup to the 550's, there is a great post in the FAQ's on how to fit the camshaft and sprocket. Reply #7.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,369.0.html

Thanks for the great link Bootsey, wish I had seen that 10 minutes earlier

It's finally back on but put a little gouge in one of the head nuts and side of the head. Finally got it into place with a loud snap and accompanying "smoke" which was probably oil. Scared me though, I rolled the assembly a few times to make sure no teeth had broken off!! I will happily not do that again.

calj737 · « **Reply #338 on:** May 31, 2016, 07:07:39 PM »

Regarding the torque process, you understand correctly. It's not just the studs that stretch, but the head gasket and base gasket compress. Once they fully compress, the nuts may lose their tension. So best to undo all of them, then step back thru yur torque sequence to insure they're properly torqued.

Undo them in reverse to how you torqued them.

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #339 on:** May 31, 2016, 07:31:07 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 31, 2016, 07:07:39 PM

Regarding the torque process, you understand correctly. It's not just the studs that stretch, but the head gasket and base gasket compress. Once they fully compress, the nuts may lose their tension. So best to undo all of them, then step back thru yur torque sequence to insure they're properly torqued.

Undo them in reverse to how you torqued them.

Got it. Why undo all of them first? Why not just re torque in the morning?

calj737 · « **Reply #340 on:** June 01, 2016, 03:37:54 AM »

For uniformity. You don't know what tension any of them are under now. If you attempt to simply "torque" them from where they are, they run the risk of being unequal. Undo, start anew. Then they are all the same, exactly the same.

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #341 on:** June 01, 2016, 09:47:26 PM »

Well the cylinders are back on... But I encountered a crazy amount of stripped screws when reinstalling the valve cover

There must have been 5 or 6 that wouldn't torque down to the specified 5-7 lb. ft and three of those remain hand loose (the others I at least couldn't turn with a screw driver socket). One of them had no threads at all and looked like it had been drilled out... Pretty upset about that but I am hoping by some miracle they don't leak oil, as optimistic as that may be. Not placing any bets especially as the stripped bolts are on the downward end of the head... $:-\$

calj737 · « **Reply #342 on:** June 02, 2016, 04:34:57 AM »

Buy a set of tap and dies in metric. Every screw needs to be threaded and holding. You WILL LEAK OIL unless you repair them.

If the stock size tap will not properly re-thread those holes, you'll either have to heli-coil them or timesert them.

To properly tap, get the tool centered on the hole, and still. Spray the tap with some cutting fluid or dip into Marvel Mystery Oil. Turn in 180*. Turn back 90*. Turn in 360* from there, turn back 90*. This in-and-back helps pull any cut debris up and out of the hole along the tap. These holes are into aluminum, so it won't take much force. Don't screw it in straight away to the bottom and try to be quick.

Turn in, turn back, turn in, turn back. You'll be cutting near perfect threads and preventing any oil leaks.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #343 on:** June 02, 2016, 08:32:12 AM »

Hoping it will not leak without repairing/rethreading those holes will be shorthand for leaking oil all over the front of the motor, onto the exhaust headers, all over your legs and possibly worse (onto your back tire). Fix it now and get peace of mind.

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #344 on:** June 02, 2016, 08:50:02 AM »

Alright... Time to thread

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #345 on:** June 02, 2016, 10:09:39 AM »

Quote from: sbeckman7 on June 02, 2016, 08:50:02 AM

Alright... Time to thread

Good decision. Then you can remove the "glutton for punishment" title from your profile!

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #346 on:** June 09, 2016, 09:51:54 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 02, 2016, 10:09:39 AM

Good decision. Then you can remove the "glutton for punishment" title from your profile!

Things like this are the exact reason I have to keep that descriptor!

sbeckman7 · « **Reply #347 on:** June 21, 2016, 12:47:56 AM »

Finally got some time to work on the 350F again. This evening I removed the bottom race from the triple tree, cleaning the triples up as best I could in the process. I also finally managed to get the fork disassembled and found a looot of nasty surface rust. Wire wheeled it for now, will be covered with rubber gaiters when the bike goes back together I think. Lastly, I cut the hubs out of the original rims. The hubs will have to be completely torn apart next, so thats what I'll be starting tomorrow hopefully. I will also order the helicoils to get the valve cover properly installed.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #348 on:** June 21, 2016, 07:42:31 AM »

S,
You might consider getting 'Timeserts' for the valve cover thread repair job,the kit is pricey but those inserts will last you for a long time

jon baker · « **Reply #349 on:** June 21, 2016, 10:14:08 AM »

Loving this work so far! keep up the good work! Just a thought with the rusted fork legs, do you have time/facility to soak them for a couple of days in a bath of white vinegar? this will remove most of the rust and make the remainder quite shiny.

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Author Topic: From Sh*tty to Shiny: Sbeckman7's CB350F Cafe Resto (Read 64982 times)