Shaking down my wiring issues on my new parts bike 75/76 CB750F #2. Background: Using (trying to) my original harness. I previously had a voltage drop that ran down my battery with my Dyna III, 3 ohm coils and halogen bulb. Used a new harness and new bullet connectors when I rebuilt CB750F #1 and then the drop disappeared with 3ohm coils, halogen and a Dyna 2000. So at least the original harness is suspect. It has some funky #$%* going on in addition to this and will be replaced.
Anyway, one of the easier problems is the headlight isn't working. No high, low or high indicator light. I do not think this is the harness. I've traced out that individual circuit apart from the entire schematic in order to check voltages from beginning to headlight. The HL power seems to begin in the main BLACK line in the front junction box and continue up through the right control. Voltage at the connector box is ~13.5. Coming back FROM the RIGHT CONTROL the black/red has no voltage back at the connector box. SUSPECT! It has one of those fragile brittle plastic boxed starter buttons that was cracked. I tried a 'fix'. Squeezed it together and slathered epoxy over it to try to hold it together. One can only hope haha. All hope is now gone. Worth a try perhaps.....
Looks like I need to start with a new right side control. Easy enough. Honda likes theirs for over a Benjamin. Researching I am finding a replacement on VintageCB750.com for $70. It is originally intended for a 73 - 75 750K. They say it will work on the 75/76 CB750F and the 76 K. AND it has the headlight on/off switch. Both switches show a BK and BK/WH to the red kill switch, the F has BK/R to HL interrupter sharing a BK power with the starter circuit.
OK, here goes. I see the separate on/off HL switch needing it's own separate power. It has the BK/R just as the F switch does that goes through the fuse box and back to the HL. The 'replacement also has a BR/W wire to the HL kill that the F does not have. This is represented on the schematic as TL1 ie tail light. Tail lights are always hot with the key on as far as I know AND there just so happens to be a spare BR connector independent of the tail lights in the HL bucket which shows to be HOT on the schematic.
Anyone still following me? By utilizing the spare BR in the HL bucket for power to the extra BR/W to the HL kill switch which the F does NOT have this would bypass the HL interrupt and provide a true HL kill switch.... A little jumper and it's done??? Maybe??
Thoughts, proofs, denials. etc welcome, hoped for and expected please. Please shake me down. I need to BE SURE that spare brown will supply power to the brown/white and the power flows in the appropriate direction from the spare brown through the switch TO the headlight.
[/b]Now for all those that will inevitably say why?, please don't. I know there is that headlight safety factor and a good one at that but.... another option for a less expensive starter button for under $100 AND a battery saver in case you like the many of us have the need to conserve a few volts to make it home when the charging system goes south.
Bar Switch Assembly ~ Right (Brake) Side - Black.
Replaces OEM#35300-341-671.
Fits: Honda CB750K (1973-75)
PLUS- Also, fits the models below but the original switches for these bikes below did not include the OFF/ON switch on the side like this switch does.
Fits: Honda CB750K (1976),
CB750F (1975-76)
Part #: 12-0301
THEY say it will 'fit' but I still need for them to tell me the pigtail is long enough.
