Topic: Oh no, another rattlecan paint related question

[jaycox]

Princess Auto has polishing stuff also.

[76400F]

Thanks jaycox. I'm going to give the rattlecan one more try today.

Ok, as usual, there's a grey area. It says that the engine enamel is "dry to the touch in one hour and can be handled in 3 hours. Bake at 300 degrees for 2 hours." Does that mean I have to wait for 3 hours to bake it or can I bake it after an hour? I feel like a total moron, but painting is one of the things I know little or nothing about.

[76400F]

And can I just go straight from the silver to the clear? Damn I hate painting...

[DohcBikes]

And can I just go straight from the silver to the clear?

Yes just be sure to let the base coat tack up

engine enamel can be cured anytime after it dries enough to handle. I let mine dry quite a bit first.

[76400F]

Thanks Dohcbikes!

OK, so I sanded after letting the second light coat of primer dry for a half hour. I've now let the 3rd and last coat of primer dry for a half hour and I'm going to start my first coat of paint. I'll do 2 light coats of paint with 10 minutes in between, then 1 final medium coat like the can says. then I'm going to wait 10 minutes and start the clear, repeating the same process as the paint. Then wait an hour or so and try to slip it into the oven without buggering it up and let it cure for 2 hours. If anyone sees anything wrong with this, I'd appreciate your feedback. Once I can get this process to work once, I promise never to bring the subject up again.

[grcamna2]

I would just add that with that many coats it could help it to cure overnight+ before putting it into the oven & when you do put it in the oven try to 'hang' it from the top so it won't touch your paint;I'm just not sure you need too many coats of primer..  imo

[76400F]

It's in the oven now. I waited a bit more tan an hour. It looked really good going in. I have an hour and a half before pulling it out. Hoping for the best.

[76400F]

WTF. I give up. Going to PC them. Followed the directions to a tee.

[itsahonda4]

If you decide to polish, rather than painting, Princess Auto has a pile of polishing gear, wheels, different colour compound sticks etc and they are dirt cheap...
Havne t ever seen the stuff at Lowes here in the frozen west....
Al

[mystic_1]

If you put on three coats of primer, three coats of base, and three coats of clear, out of rattle cans, and then force dried them in an oven, then imho you are laying down too much paint and trying to dry it too quickly.  I think that's why your paint wrinkled up like that, the top coat dried first and tried to shrink while the underlying coats were still wet.

Me I would have let the three coats of primer dry overnight, then baked them,  and then sanded them back down before applying the base, then the same before applying clear. 

Non-catylized paints dry from contact with air, and if you put on too many coats too soon then the underlying coats won't fully dry at all.

Keep in mind that even when it's dry to the touch and safe to handle, the paint is still not fully dry.

mystic_1

[grcamna2]

I myself personally need to apprentice(offer free labor to help do masking,whatever..) under a good painter who Knows and is willing to teach me what stuff to mix with what brand paint,etc. because rattle can paint just won't hold up under hard use,not enough hardener so it chips too easy.

[CycleRanger]

If you put on three coats of primer, three coats of base, and three coats of clear, out of rattle cans, and then force dried them in an oven, then imho you are laying down too much paint and trying to dry it too quickly.  I think that's why your paint wrinkled up like that, the top coat dried first and tried to shrink while the underlying coats were still wet.

Me I would have let the three coats of primer dry overnight, then baked them,  and then sanded them back down before applying the base, then the same before applying clear. 

Non-catylized paints dry from contact with air, and if you put on too many coats too soon then the underlying coats won't fully dry at all.

Keep in mind that even when it's dry to the touch and safe to handle, the paint is still not fully dry.

mystic_1

Pretty much this, imho.  I'd skip the baking altogether and just add a day between primer/base/clear.

[Kenzo]

 “paint film too high, flash times too short.”

http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/let-me-out-solvent-popping/

[76400F]

Thanks for all your input guys. All of that makes sense. I was also thinking that if I'm using a self etching primer that's not heat resistant, that's definitely NOT going to help. I've got them blasted this morning and am hoping third time's the charm. I'm going to skip the entire baking process this time and just let them air cure. I don't remember the old girl ever going fast enough to heat the forks up.

As luck would have it, we just hired a new painter here at work. We've been without one since I started this build. Talking with him this morning, it looks like my painting problems are over...

I appreciate all the feedback.

[mystic_1]

Excellent, just to hedge your bets you may want to come up with some sort of offering to the gods of speed before you start spraying.  This usually takes care of itself when doing sheet metal work and turning wrenches as the project tends to yield its own blood sacrifices.

It's possible that they also respond well to drinking Guinness and Jagermeister, but that may simply be wishful thinking on my part.

mystic_1

[76400F]

Haha, I think that's a great idea, mystic_1. The Gods will have to settle for a good IPA.

The funny part of this whole fiasco is that I've worked as a certified welder, machinist, millwright, and have been formally trained in the art of metal shaping by Cal Davis at Metalcraft Tools. But I can't paint a couple of fork tubes to save my life. Very frustrating...