Topic: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650

[754]

Ahh that is what I meant , i was looking at the alloy bit under the red bolt head.!

[Powderman]

Ahh that is what I meant , i was looking at the alloy bit under the red bolt head.!

That's just the spacer I made yesterday to try and move the bracket away from the caliper to locate the bracket onto the center of the fork tube and not so close to the side of the tube. Ultimately I want it centered on the leg and could go another 1/4" to the outside to accomplish this , but don't want to add leverage from the caliper on the bracket by making the spacer too long. I think what I have will work just fine and exceed the requirements needed.

[grcamna2]

Ahh that is what I meant , i was looking at the alloy bit under the red bolt head.!

That's just the spacer I made yesterday to try and move the bracket away from the caliper to locate the bracket onto the center of the fork tube and not so close to the side of the tube. Ultimately I want it centered on the leg and could go another 1/4" to the outside to accomplish this , but don't want to add leverage from the caliper on the bracket by making the spacer too long. I think what I have will work just fine and exceed the requirements needed.

PM, Do you feel those spacers are wide enough to support the force on the calipers ?

[Powderman]

Ahh that is what I meant , i was looking at the alloy bit under the red bolt head.!

That's just the spacer I made yesterday to try and move the bracket away from the caliper to locate the bracket onto the center of the fork tube and not so close to the side of the tube. Ultimately I want it centered on the leg and could go another 1/4" to the outside to accomplish this , but don't want to add leverage from the caliper on the bracket by making the spacer too long. I think what I have will work just fine and exceed the requirements needed.

PM, Do you feel those spacers are wide enough to support the force on the calipers ?

They exceed or equal the width of the bolt tang on the caliper bracket, so I see no issue there.

[Powderman]

Got the brake caliper brackets and the brake stay bracket welded on today. Bolted everything up and with brake pads in and both sides rotate freely. Glad that is all done because now I can move forward with a good bit of assembly.

Nice bit of TIG welding should do it:



Almost looks factory:





Everything rotates freely with pads installed:








Tomorrow I start with the bare frame and the forks and go from there with full assembly.

[Retro Rocket]

Are the lower fork legs steel...? 

[Powderman]

Obviously, yes.

[Retro Rocket]

Obviously, yes.

Well, obviously for you, I'm not into these old bikes and have never seen all steel lowers, was just making sure, they would be heavy as F@%k....

[simon#42]

they are not that heavy , the steel is pretty thin .  i have seen them tig welded before but it has always distorted unfortunately .

[grcamna2]

Very nice welding work.  The tig was just the thing to use there.

[Powderman]

they are not that heavy , the steel is pretty thin .  i have seen them tig welded before but it has always distorted unfortunately .

I'll be honing them today.

[754]

If there is a hole in the bottom you can make a piloted counterbore. Use a bushing up top,and have a reduced diameter tip on the far end of the bar , this fits lower hole. Set a toolbit in the bar with a micrometer,. Then slowly feed thru. , this would cut out the shrunk area, rather than make the whole diameter bigger/looser where you need it on size the most..

[Powderman]

If there is a hole in the bottom you can make a piloted counterbore. Use a bushing up top,and have a reduced diameter tip on the far end of the bar , this fits lower hole. Set a toolbit in the bar with a micrometer,. Then slowly feed thru. , this would cut out the shrunk area, rather than make the whole diameter bigger/looser where you need it on size the most..

I know right where it's binding so I won't be honing the whole inside tube, just where its a bit tight.
You machine process sounds expensive having to make up a bushings and all.

[754]

Naw you can make it in under an hour on the lathe.
If you polish on one side where the weld is you will be ok, but if you go full circle, it will be oversize where you need it to be tight.. Hone. Wont do well in an out of round hole.

[Powderman]

Once I cleaned and lubed it all up they slide on fine. No warpage or shrinking to deal with. Time to blast and coat and start reassembly.

[simon#42]

dont think a hone will work , it will remove metal from both sides not just the affected side . there will also be part of the leg which will need metal adding as it will have distorted outwards . this is why people usually dont bother doing it . if you think sliding up and down is ok for you then thats fine 

[754]

 I tend to think it tightens up in the weld area..

[simon#42]

i found i rippled the length of the weld . when i did it i had to make a sleeve for the slider , it was a lot of messing round and not something i would bother doing again .

[Powderman]

Everything went together fine and is working properly.

[Stev-o]

Nice job PM, looks great

[edwardmorris]

Looks great! What about those gaiters, new ones going on?

[grcamna2]

Nice job PM, looks great

+1 

[Powderman]

Looks great! What about those gaiters, new ones going on?

Those are brand new ones, looks like some ArmorAll is needed on them.

[grcamna2]

Looks great! What about those gaiters, new ones going on?

Those are brand new ones, looks like some ArmorAll is needed on them.

Silicone will look nice also.

[Powderman]

Looks great! What about those gaiters, new ones going on?

Those are brand new ones, looks like some ArmorAll is needed on them.

Silicone will look nice also.

Maybe silicone on the seat cover also to bring that gray back to the black it was,