Topic: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650

[Powderman]

Got some meds today to try and help. Pharmacist was looking for something that wouldn't make me drowsy. I said "no, give me the drowsy formula, maybe I can get some shut eye.

[Powderman]

[Retro Rocket]

Nice, I'm assuming thats powder, How would you go about powdering a word if it was raised lettering inside a cavity..?

[Powderman]

Nice, I'm assuming thats powder, How would you go about powdering a word if it was raised lettering inside a cavity..?

You mean "instead" of cavity?. Basically the same way , just reverse the order of the colors. This was coated black and cured and then the Gold was just poured into the recess and a damp finger wipe over it will remove all the powder except that which is below the surface.  If the letters were raised I would shoot and cure the Gold and then shoot the black, finger wipe the tops of the letters revealing the gold, and then cure it.

[Powderman]

My color combination has given me every issue I can. think of. There is actually some gold "overspray" visible. How do I get rid of it? If both colors were a gloss, no biggie, I would wet sand the black to remove the gold overspray and then clear coat the whole thing bringing back the gloss. Sanding the Matte will turn it gray and I can't clear it if I want it Matte. The gold here really needs to be clear coated which means another fill and finger wipe step that I don't want to do until I get rid of the gold haze left now. I have an option I haven't tried yet and that is a Matte Clear over a Matte Black. If it looks the same with the Matte Clear then I can wet sand, Matte Clear, gloss clear the letters and be done.  I'll shoot some samples and see tomorrow. It could be that a Gloss Black with a Matte Clear is the same as Matte Black. Hopefully I can fix the small cover so I don't have to redo the other covers to match.

Or I forgot about the piece of equipment I have here that the powder coating forum named after me, The Marcuum. I took a 2" pvc cap, a 1/2" brass barb fitting and a standard air blow gun with nozzles as small the needle valve used to blow up sports balls. I drill a hole in the center of the cap and screw in the 1/2 brass barb, connect 8'-10' of clear 1/2" hose to it and the air gun to the other end. I turn on the shop vac, pop the cap over the end of the vac hose and I now have a mini vacuum. I can shoot the whole cover in Matte Black again and then carefully vacuum out the recessed letters. It takes a steady hand and i'm not getting any younger though.

[Stev-o]

Looks great, PM.

[Retro Rocket]

Nice, I'm assuming thats powder, How would you go about powdering a word if it was raised lettering inside a cavity..?

You mean "instead" of cavity?. Basically the same way , just reverse the order of the colors. This was coated black and cured and then the Gold was just poured into the recess and a damp finger wipe over it will remove all the powder except that which is below the surface.  If the letters were raised I would shoot and cure the Gold and then shoot the black, finger wipe the tops of the letters revealing the gold, and then cure it.

I have a yoshimura points cover that has a rectangular cavity or recess, inside that recess is the raised Yoshi symbols.  I wanted the cover black, the cavity white and the letters red {top and sides}, do you think thats possible..?



I can discuss this in a PM if you'd prefer..?

[Powderman]

Nice, I'm assuming thats powder, How would you go about powdering a word if it was raised lettering inside a cavity..?

You mean "instead" of cavity?. Basically the same way , just reverse the order of the colors. This was coated black and cured and then the Gold was just poured into the recess and a damp finger wipe over it will remove all the powder except that which is below the surface.  If the letters were raised I would shoot and cure the Gold and then shoot the black, finger wipe the tops of the letters revealing the gold, and then cure it.

I have a yoshimura points cover that has a rectangular cavity or recess, inside that recess is the raised Yoshi symbols.  I wanted the cover black, the cavity white and the letters red {top and sides}, do you think thats possible..?



I can discuss this in a PM if you'd prefer..?

Yes, it is possible, and I've done stuff like that. But yours brings up more issues. You know what you get when you mix red and white? Yup, PINK. In this case you could shoot the whole thing black, fully cure. Then mask off the black and shoot the rectangle and letters red. Then you really have no option but to use my mini vacuum to remove all the red from the recess, then cure the red. Now mask the tops of the red letter and shoot recess white. I would charge you around $75US to do that with those colors. Darker colors that don't bleed are a lot easier to work with.

[Powderman]

 Getting the rotor carrier design down. Hope to have it soon so I can finish up the rear swap. Engine reassembly is in progress.

[Powderman]

Have most of the bottom end back together. Slow and methodical as I only want to do it once. I already had a brain fart after taking the crank to be polished. long story short the machinist pulled off a main bearing to polish the crank and then reinstalled it on the wrong side. I got home and dropped the crank in it's main bearing race and glued the case halves back together and called it a day. When I started fresh the next day and started to try and assemble the next bits nothing seemed to be right. That's when I noticed I had the crank in backwards and had to split the cases and start over, fun.

[grcamna2]

I hope you were able to save that new bearing

[MoMo]

Like your connecting rod holders ..Larry

[Powderman]

Like your connecting rod holders ..Larry

I keep scraps of 1/4 Lexan plate around. I use it to make patterns for brackets and such because it is strong enough to bolt stuff to and changes in shape or clearance can be made easily before transferring the pattern to metal for final part. I figured a rod protector was an easy part to make and it works nicely to keep big trash from falling in and the rods from getting beat up from slamming against the bores.

[Powderman]

Slikwilli is about finished with my rear rotor carrier. Should have it back early this week and then all I need is to make a brace bar and slotted tab for the swing arm to tie up the rear modifications.
 Minimal in design and done that way for function and as small as needed. I'll probably polish it to match the front chrome rotors carriers.

[Powderman]

A little more progress. Got the custom made rotor carrier back, thanks to Slikwilli for knocking that out for me.






I don't like the routing of the brake line with the 90° fitting on the caliper, so I might have the custom brake line made with another 90° fitting to lessen the exposure of the brake line.



The space between the caliper bracket and the caliper itself on the caliper bolt will be filled with a Heim joint for the brake stay rod.

[grcamna2]

That caliper bracket,is that made from billet ?

[Powderman]

That caliper bracket,is that made from billet ?

5/16" aluminum plate

[754]

Hang the caliber down, end of brake line problem. The calibers should come in left and right, looks like a 41 mm Brembo.

[Powderman]

Hang the caliber down, end of brake line problem. The calibers should come in left and right, looks like a 41 mm Brembo.

There's 3 reasons I'm against hanging it down. 1) I don't like the look of it down there, sticks out more than I want. 2) Not saying it will ever happen to moi, but if you go down on that side, the caliper and bracket will take massive damage. It won't if it's high mounted. 3)Bleeding would require extra work.

I put a mock up brake stay arm on there tonight and realized I could just route the brake line along the stay arm and hide it.I like the compactness of the shocks and brakes together so it leaves more of the profile of the wheel visible. The brake stay arm will be an aluminum tube with left and right him joints on the ends. At the other end of the stay the fore and aft adjustment plate will be welded on adjacent the tire so as not to hide the wheel again. Minimal, functional and will end up aesthetically pleasing also. Winning

[Powderman]

Wow, as luck would have it I was searching around because I thought I had a 12" piece of solid 1/2 alloy rod around. Couldn't find it now that I need it. So I went searching in the brake parts I had in surplus from the XR build. Lo and behold I find a 10" piece already drilled for a 3/8" heim. I scrounge in the box some more and get lucky again and find a single 3/8" heim, cross my fingers and try it in the rod and it's the right thread. That's when I look at the other end of the rod and find it has a 5/16" hole bored  1/4" deep. Perfect again because the helm on the caliper needs to be 5/16". So now all I need is a 5/16"LH heim and drill and tap that end. Tie wrap the brake line and done.




The 90° 90° works perfect.

[754]

I wouldn't worry too much about LH threads in that application,  not like it needs constant adjusting for length.
I liked the heim rod on my stock 750 rear brake, just turn it 90 degree to the side when. Changing the wheel.

[Powderman]

I wouldn't worry too much about LH threads in that application,  not like it needs constant adjusting for length.
I liked the heim rod on my stock 750 rear brake, just turn it 90 degree to the side when. Changing the wheel.

If I use a slotted plate welded to the swing arm at the pivot end, then you're right, I don't need adjustment from the rod. I'll go that route to save the cost of a LH tap. I can get the Heims for $6, already have a RH tap. How does yours turn 90°?
Now I just need to tie up the mounting of the m/c and reservoir on the other side.

[754]

Loosen the jam nut or leave it loose, then when you drop the caliber, you just turn it (heim joint in its thread).
But since yours is on top you may have to pull the bolt out of one of the heims.

[Powderman]

Doing a 6-1/2 plate clutch mod. It requires gluing down a 1/16" cork pad in the clutch housing itself and then adding one extra steel plate. This is suppose to remedy possible clutch slippage issues. Less than $10 mod so I figured might as well do it while it's apart.

[grcamna2]

That's the first time I saw that clutch mod PM,does the cork act as friction material or a damper?