Topic: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650

[grcamna2]

still planning to drill the rear sprocket PM? ...Larry

I'm looking at options. The price I was quoted to put 10 holes in this one is about twice what I can buy a new one for. So I'm looking at replacing it if I can't get the cost down to do mine. SS should have a chart to input the dimensions to relate to part numbers they have.
grcamna2, I'd love to see a pic of yours.

OK,
I'll grab a few pics of the SS one today.

[slikwilli420]

still planning to drill the rear sprocket PM? ...Larry

I'm looking at options. The price I was quoted to put 10 holes in this one is about twice what I can buy a new one for. So I'm looking at replacing it if I can't get the cost down to do mine. SS should have a chart to input the dimensions to relate to part numbers they have.
grcamna2, I'd love to see a pic of yours.

Sorry brother, machine shop time ain't cheap. Might get a local machinist to do it on a rotary table for a bit cheaper, but not by a wide margin.

[Powderman]

No worries. It's just that I'm on a tight budget with this build and $80 can go far in other areas. I'm not so dissatisfied with the sprocket at this point to put out $80 for holes. If I had a pulley for the top of my drill press i would drill holes in it myself.

[slikwilli420]

Very good. Keeping an eye on this one. Really liking the little touches you are putting everywhere.

[754]

Buy the damn pulley, transfer punch from the rotor if need be..
 Lits of them been drilled a drill press..

[Powderman]

Buy the damn pulley, transfer punch from the rotor if need be..
 Lits of them been drilled a drill press..

Can't find a proper pulley, 5/8" taper shaft, 4 groove.

[grcamna2]

Powderman,
I just got back from looking in my storage(I'm slowly packing stuff and putting it into smaller boxes to move shortly)in the last place i had those Sprocket Specialist 'Titan Tough' sprockets but couldn't find them yet;I just had my hands on them last week!
sorry,wanted to get you a few pics. 

I know you can go to their website: sprocketspecialists.com and they should have images of their rear 'Titan Tough' process color,it makes it a type of gold which is nice and they do have holes in them too.
They're very nice folks over in Oroville,CA. and their ph. is 1800.782.8200

[Powderman]

I just had a thought, the set screw bolt hole broke on the back side. I can try and drill another hole 180° opposite the old one and maybe get a few more jobs done before it breaks.

[Powderman]

Starting to look like a bike, yet so far from completion.

[edwardmorris]

Its the 80-20 rule, last 20% takes 80% of the time. Looks great though!

[Powderman]

Its the 80-20 rule, last 20% takes 80% of the time. Looks great though!

Dang, that means it's another year and a half. Lol

[754]

Shrink a collar over the setscew area, make it stronger...easy if you have the old piece.
Or take the lip off make a steel washer with same id, then bolt it to sheave... Hope the taper is not in that part.

[Powderman]

Shrink a collar over the setscew area, make it stronger...easy if you have the old piece.
Or take the lip off make a steel washer with same id, then bolt it to sheave... Hope the taper is not in that part.

Elaborate more please.

[754]

Measure the outer diameter of the shoulder where the broken threads are, then subtract ..002
 Then make a ring with that ID and 1/4 inch wall, same height as the part sticking up.
 Bevel on one inner edge so it can sit flat.
 Then when pressed in place , drill and tap.

Or if its the straight part of bore. Make a washer, that fits inside the pulley, and same ID as the hole. Drill and tap the washer, then drill 3 holes@tap drill size.. evenly spaced on the sides . Bout 1/2 way between od and id. ( check that the bolts wont break thru into the next lower pulley)
You place that in the pulley with a dummy shaft or plug, then transfer the three holes into the pulley and drill and tap them.
 Then drill the three holes to bolt size and bolt on.  Now you have an unbreakable steel  washer holding the torque,not the pulley.
 I guess I might need to make a diagram..

[Powderman]

The machinist said the easiest fix would be to just bore it and put a sleeve in it. I don't think it is a taper fit. It's a 5/8" shaft, with a flat  to capture the set screw.

[Powderman]

Wow, my rear banjo brake light switch arrived today. Ordered on the 11th and only 4 days from China.



This is about as neat, tidy, and unobtrusive as I could have asked for in this application.



Now lets see how long it takes the brake lines to get here from China also, ordered the same day.

[Powderman]

Well I lucked out again. I was looking for another part in my stash and came upon this vintage Tommasselli 1/4 turn throttle. I don't particularly like the looks of the body compared to the stock unit, but I'm seeking function more so than form at this point. I've dealt with 1/2 and more throttles and they are not good for the wrist.

[Powderman]

I want to use these gaiter clamps to secure the lower lip of the gaiter and locate the brake line. I had to take pliers and open the cable loop to install the brake line in it. As soon as I started to bend it it chipped all the chrome plating off it. So I will probably strip them and powder coat them black and buy a couple more brake lines that are a bit longer and then cut off the ends, feed the hose through the clip loops and then install my own reusable banjo ends in the correct position. Part of the wrong brake line issue is mine as these lines are suppose to have the ends the same on both ends, but mine need to be opposed by 90°.


When I received the lines I was impressed with their quality for inexpensive ($5.99 shipped) Chinese brake lines. They are DOT approved and sheathed in clear plastic.Unfortunately they didn't pay attention during assembly and one of the ends is clocked 45° from the other end and the line can't be twisted to mount it.
When one end is in this position.


The other end is in this position.


Actually, as mentioned above, they need to be clocked 90° from each other for my application. So I will need to cut one end off each line and replace the end with a $15 fitting on my $6 line.

[Powderman]

Sold the front end off the 73 CB750 today, so $100 for more parts for the Triumph.

[Powderman]

 I made some changes to the rear caliper set up to finally complete it's modification once my brake line straight end comes in the mail tomorrow. I noticed the caliper was mounted about an 1/8"too far inward. So I chucked it up the mill and took an 1/8" off the upper left and bottom bolt holes on the face of the caliper and took off a bit more than that on the upper right caliper bolt hole surface to make room between the caliper and caliper bracket to mount the Heim joint on the caliper stay rod in that space. Well the spacing for moving the caliper outward came out perfect, but I couldn't take enough material out the stay bar bolt hole of the caliper to accommodate the thickness of the Heim joint. So I looked around my parts stash and found that the stock brake drum stay bar was an almost perfect fit. It was the correct length to bolt to the caliper and be at the front of the slotted bracket at the front of the swingarm. I needed only to put a thin shim in-between the bar and the caliper to have a tight fit at that end, and a slight massaging on the sander of that end of the bar to clear around the bolt hole. Unfortunately the bracket at the other end is about 3/8" right of the bar. So I will take it to the machine shop and have them put it in their massive hydraulic metal bending machine and put a kink in it to solve that issue. I could just put a spacer at that connection but right now the bar has only about 1/4" clearance on the tire, so the bend will help that issue. I still think the Heim jointed rod would have worked sufficiently, but I didn't have a rod long enough or room for the Heim at the caliper so made do with what I had to work with. In the end, I'm satisfied with the set up.
I will, at some point, pull the swing arm and cut off the slotted bracket and replace it with a single hole tab instead.

[grcamna2]

Nice that you could use another original part and have it work w/ that mod. Those disc's are going to excel at stopping that bike 

[Powderman]

Nice that you could use another original part and have it work w/ that mod. Those disc's are going to excel at stopping that bike 

The part that really disappoints me is I was hoping with the Kimtab Magnesium wheels and the disc brake I would be adding improvements in 3 areas, better braking and lighter unsprung weight and better look. It turns out the front wheel with the extra brake parts is within 1lb of what the spoke front wheel weighed. I'll settle for better looks and better braking. As my buddy Meatloaf said, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.
I did try and utilize as many parts as I could from the original bike and some of the added parts are from late model Triumphs. I would have used late model 4 piston Triumph brake calipers, but they were too wide on the back side. I could have easily swapped a set of disc brake efforts from another brand, but only needed to mill a flat spot on the lower tube to locate the wheel spacer. Swing arm, axles, etc. are all factory 70 parts. I only want the wheels and brakes to be the difference

[Powderman]

One step forward and two steps back, or so I thought. I take the new brake line fitting and go to install it. I cut off the banjo fitting on the new hose and, WTF is this? I've never seen a teflon hose lined with another metal lining. I'm now thinking I just wasted a hose that I can no longer use and will need to order some -3 line and another fitting to just make a new hose.




Put this one aside for a few and go to install the new shorter rocker box inspection caps, they are still too tall to clear the carb. So I will look for a pair of carb spacers. I then go back to the brake hose brake line and grab a pick and see what's up with that lining. As I pry on it the end of it pops out, leaving a standard looking teflon lined braided line.



Apparently I cut the old fitting off so close to the base that I actually cut off the tip of the steel tube that goes inside the teflon hose and was now able to complete the install of the new fitting. Move 2 sets forward again.

[MoMo]

2 for the good guys

[Powderman]

Powder coat the stay bar today and I think I'm done with the rear brake.