Topic: Alright are these salvageable?

[ChopSticks]

So I've decided to go the wintergreen oil route, but I'll definitely have to order at least one carb boot (#3) due to a tear, just wanted to make sure if I needed to order anymore because shipping can be pricey, or if they're salvageable? I've read most of the threads on the wintergreen soak, the oldest being around 5 years ago, just curious how well have those held up for those that went that route? how long does it take for brand new ones to go rock hard (unsealable)?

And I've found that my bike '74 750 has 3 different set of clamps (airbox>carb, carb>engineboot, and engineboot>header). I've bought these to replace the airbox>carb and carb>engineboot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036R4UDC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But the engineboot>header seem a bit wider and flatter? are these reuseable? what are some signs that the clamps should be replaced?

Also, the clamps appear to have imprinted the rubber, would this cause any issues?

Lastly, couple of the airbox boots and engineboot #4 have a small splice at the end, would this have any negative affects? should I just order new ones?

[Stev-o]

I'd order new ones....

[grcamna2]

I viewed the pics of the boots,it looks like the airbox boots(from what I can see)could be re-used but if it was me I would skip doing the Wintergreen on those and order all 4 new engine to carb. boots.The clamps you can get on Amazon need to be no wider than the area where you clamp them on the boot & they look like good quality clamps.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Order a new set. Don't have to be Honda brand.

[grcamna2]

When removing the carbs it'll help next time to remove the complete airbox first;it looks like someone tried to remove the carbs w/o first removing the airbox and that's a real struggle especially w/ those hard old boots.

[mystic_1]

In my mind there's so much cracking evident there that the whole batch should be considered unsound.

In fact making them softer may cause them to split even more, as now they can move around some and the material strength is clearly compromised.

I bet they've shrunk quite a bit too.

New boots are expensive, but there is NO COMPARISON to using all new rubber here, it makes things SO much easier getting the carbs and airbox on and off.

mystic_1

[madmtnmotors]

In my mind there's so much cracking evident there that the whole batch should be considered unsound.

In fact making them softer may cause them to split even more, as now they can move around some and the material strength is clearly compromised.

I bet they've shrunk quite a bit too.

New boots are expensive, but there is NO COMPARISON to using all new rubber here, it makes things SO much easier getting the carbs and airbox on and off.

mystic_1

+1

If you put the old ones back into service you run the risk of vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can be difficult to detect. If you end up with vacuum leaks you will be chasing your tail trying to get it tuned properly. Very maddening...

[70CB750]

I'd order new ones....

Yes.

[evanphi]

Use all the same clamps on all connections, if you're getting those worm-drive ones (which are what I have).

[jaguar]

They are cheap and easy to get OEM from Honda.
No reason not to replace.

[madmtnmotors]

They are cheap and easy to get OEM from Honda.
No reason not to replace.

The insulators are still available and reasonably priced, but the band clamps through Honda are almost $10 each! Service Honda lists the boots for $20 each and the clamps for $9. The clamps would almost cost more than the rubber boots fer cryin' out loud!

[jaguar]

The clamps damaged?
Clean and reuse.

OR just spend the $80 for new clamps.
Just a drop in the bucket.

[ChopSticks]

Alright so the general consensus appears to be to just buy a new set, which I don't disagree with and probably less trouble down the line. Should I buy BOTH carb>engine AND air filter > carb boots? Also just curious, for future reference why buy a whole new set? is it better for matching purposes? I know some of the comments outlined cracking, but (engine) boots #1 and #2  have no signs of cracking or slicing at all (just looks a little warped compared to OEM pics). Just want to get a better understanding on exactly what to look for if I run into this next time.

Secondly, how long should brand new boots ideally last? (in the Northeast Tri-state area riding 10/12 months or so) Should I be setting aside a budget for new boots, similar to tires every 5 years?

Also I always take off the airbox before removing the carbs, not sure any way else you could do it, but who knows what the previous owners did. 

With that said, now that the carbs and airbox are off is there anything I can do to the bike that would be easier to do now or not really?

[madmtnmotors]

Carb to cylinder head would take priority. Vacuum leaks here would have the most detrimental affect on tuning. Leaks at the airbox boots would have less of an impact depending on the severity of the leak.

[ChopSticks]

The clamps damaged?
Clean and reuse.

What are some signs that they are damaged? they all close when I tighten the screws at least to the rubber, not sure if they tighten beyond that

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Bite the bullet and be done with this.  ALL of the parts of these bikes are old IF NOT ALREADY RECENTLY REPLACED. Better get used to this if you want a reliable bike. Just because you have your bike paid off you will still be making payments on it!! I just replaced my carb boots AND clamps AND air box boots. Why? 40 years old and stiffern my old... pretty damn hardened. No flex at all.

My air box boots had hardened and shrunk up to where they were loose in the air box hole. Both sets of boots were very difficult to work with. The clamps had distended and stretched. The Amazon clamps are great AND cheap.

Now that you've ordered all this we need to determine what's next on your list....   

[mystic_1]

The longevity of new rubber boots is going to depend of course on how the bike is stored, how much exposure you'll get to UV, and so on.

At a guess though I'd say you should expect a good 10 years at least out of a new set that was recently produced.   If they've been setting around in storage for a decade than it's back to depending on how they were stored.

I wouldn't even be surprised to find them in OK condition after 20 years.


Your current boots, however, are likely twice that old.

mystic_1

[grcamna2]

For 'seals' sake replace those current engine to carb. boots