There are tons of cam degreeing instructions on this forum.
For CB750:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,98137.0.htmlYou can find information on car forums too. Old V8's use one cam too.
This article is interesting and describe the importance of IN closing.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-9812-secrets-of-camshaft-power/I change and time cam with engine in frame. I do not know if CB500/550 can do that or be modified with frame kit as CB750.
The degree wheel is very small, not as the big ones the experts here use for total control. Small wheel OK for me, maybe 1 degree off.
On the photo below degree wheel with Dyna-S still mounted. I have now points, the entire point plate need to be off hanging in its cable. The points will touch the wheel otherwise.
Note! No plugs in when turning crank with the week ign nut/shaft. It can cause more play to the advancer when that one turn the crank around with its pin into the end of the crank. I guess that's why my advancer has 2-3 degrees in total play and setting the true TDC is a vital part of the procedure. I think Í get correct TDC with advancer unit turned max counterclockwise of its play. With this setting it can move when turning the crank during the timing. I have turned crank with kickstarter to avoid that the advancer moves.
Not only cam timing, set the advancer correct is a part of it too so you can trust the T, F and full advance marks ' '. I check true TDC before mounting the rocker arms so the valves will not move and ev collide with piston stop. Maybe safe anyway. I have larger in valves 34mm, std is 32mm
Guys with Dyna 2000 do not use the advancer.
EDIT: Action Fours cam timing docs I got with my AF cam added.