Topic: Pilot screw caps

[eigenvector]

I have the carbs on my 700SC completely rebuilt, but the last step before I put the bowls on is to put in the pilot screws.

Question is though, how do you remove the caps without destroying the very delicate pilot screw?

I've hunted around the web and the consensus appears to be 'Dremel' but that's awfully harsh and I don't see how I could grip the screw sufficiently without marring the brass or worse breaking the tip or bending the shaft.

Can you heat the pilot screws to the point where it will pop off - or freeze it for that matter?  The shop manual indicates the use of Loctite to secure a new cap to replacement pilot screws.  So I would imagine that's what's holding it on.

What are your thoughts here. 

[grcamna2]

I'm used to seeing oem Keihin Honda carb. pilot screws that have the alloy limiter caps attached to them w/ the little 'peg' as part of the alloy 'cap';I never have tried removing those caps.I've always taken the pilot screw out of the carb.(w/ the carbs off the bike and inverted so I have to unscrew the pilot screw up and out)taking care not to lose the small o-ring,small(tiny)steel washer and spring when I remove the screw,the tiny o-ring & washer will most likely stay inside the pilot screw hole if you have the screws facing up toward you w/ the carb. rack on the bench.I remove each screw and put the limiter cap part of it in a very small bench vise and lightly tighten it down just enough to use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut the 'peg' part right off clean and then using a small hand file just dress-up the screw so it doesn't have the sharp,cut edges on it anymore.I will then carefully re-install the pilot screw/s and set them all to about 1.5-2 turns out evenly across the board. This is something I do when I install a Jet kit and then you can fine-tune each carb. w/ the synch gauges and pilot screws(if you have the time and it's your bike anyway  )and cause it to idle down slow so it's smooth and then bring the idle back up to stock setting.

[eigenvector]

That was my first approach, cutting them off with a hacksaw.  I'm a bit too ham-fisted for that.

I did see a video on Youtube where a guy did a rather detailed clip of how to remove them using a soldering iron and screwdriver.  Actually quite a good video - stumbled upon it after posting this question.

I have a spare carb body, so I was thinking of giving this a try tomorrow morning on one of them.  Otherwise I'm limited to essentially 2 1/2 turns out - fairly close, but 3 is typically better for the vacuum carbs from what I've experienced.

[grcamna2]

That was my first approach, cutting them off with a hacksaw.  I'm a bit too ham-fisted for that.

I did see a video on Youtube where a guy did a rather detailed clip of how to remove them using a soldering iron and screwdriver.  Actually quite a good video - stumbled upon it after posting this question.

I have a spare carb body, so I was thinking of giving this a try tomorrow morning on one of them.  Otherwise I'm limited to essentially 2 1/2 turns out - fairly close, but 3 is typically better for the vacuum carbs from what I've experienced.

You may be able to remove them w/ each screw removed first and insulated from the cold steel of the vise w/ a(they may just be soldered onto the brass screw anyway..) powerful soldering iron;I'm not sure if I'd try it while they're still in the carbs.. ,I've always carefully and slowly cut off the 'peg' w/ a fine tooth hack saw blade myself.

[cb650]

On the cv's on my 650 I leave the caps on  but grind back the casting on the bowl that limits it.

[eigenvector]

Well in my attempts at being elegant I came up with a more expedient solution.

I gripped the pilot screw shaft with channel locks, then cut the flag off with a pair of linesman pliers.  Its just cheap metal, nothing the cutter on the pliers couldn't handle with moderate force.  <shrug>

[grcamna2]

Well in my attempts at being elegant I came up with a more expedient solution.

I gripped the pilot screw shaft with channel locks, then cut the flag off with a pair of linesman pliers.  Its just cheap metal, nothing the cutter on the pliers couldn't handle with moderate force.  <shrug>

That sounds nice and quick 

[eigenvector]

Those pilot screws are, I think, designed to prevent tampering like that.  The shaft immediately after the head is really really thin, then it flares out to the threads, then necks down for the spring to fit around it.

I was seriously concerned about that thin portion bending or breaking - but no big deal after all.  Shouldn't overthink things I guess.

[grcamna2]

Good thing they didn't snap off,you must have some strong cutters.

[irish44395]

I just seen on a fourm were you use a good hot soldering iron heat it up and then pull it. off.
not sure if on this board or the honda 650,If here it would be in the tricks under carbs
Pete