Topic: '77 CB550 Rectifier Inquiry

[cocinero196]

Hi, my '77 CB550k is not charging and my mechanic said that my oem 5-wire rectifier like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-77-Honda-CB550K-CB-550-K-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator-/271576984651?hash=item3f3b3fec4b:g:ZOwAAOxyOlhSztjf&vxp=mtr is broken and suggested that I see an electrician.

When I brought it to the electrician, he suggested that we use a 7-wire rectifier/regulator instead, saying that the extra 2 wires are for the stator which is better than the 5-wire rectifier/regulator. He was suggesting something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290644872204 or the Rick's rectifier/regulator.

I would assume that my oem 5-wire rectifier/regulator also has wiring for the stator.
My question is, what are the differences of the 74-78 CB550 rectifier/regulators? Can it be interchanged w/ all CB550 models? Why do some oem units have 5 and others have 7 wires? Which one should I get?

[calj737]

The stock unit has 2 Yellows, 1 White and 1 Green. These are the only wires involved in charging. The "other 2" wires in stock loom from under the left side cover are BLU/RED (OIL Pressure) and GRN/RED (NEUTRAL Switch).

You need to use a multimeter and test the outbound wires from your stator and check for resistance between the YELLOWS and the WHITE. This will tell you first whether or not your sending a charge. Then, evaluate whether the Rectifier (converts AC to DC) is functioning, then whether the Regulator (recharges the battery) is sending a proper voltage to the battery. The latter stages of this depend upon a known good, functioning battery.

If you grab a meter, follow this diagram for troubleshooting:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide

[cocinero196]

The stock unit has 2 Yellows, 1 White and 1 Green. These are the only wires involved in charging. The "other 2" wires in stock loom from under the left side cover are BLU/RED (OIL Pressure) and GRN/RED (NEUTRAL Switch).

You need to use a multimeter and test the outbound wires from your stator and check for resistance between the YELLOWS and the WHITE. This will tell you first whether or not your sending a charge. Then, evaluate whether the Rectifier (converts AC to DC) is functioning, then whether the Regulator (recharges the battery) is sending a proper voltage to the battery. The latter stages of this depend upon a known good, functioning battery.

If you grab a meter, follow this diagram for troubleshooting:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide

Hi cal,
My stock unit has only 5 wires, 3 yellow, 1 red & 1 blue like the link i posted on top and like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB550-CB-550-500-k-1978-78-regulator-rectifier-reg-rec-/351568992288?hash=item51db251820:g:iywAAOSwo6lWONOO

[calj737]

The unit you posted a link to has a GREEN not a BLUE. The GREEN is a ground. This is the correct unit and wiring for stock. The other unit you posted is a combo Reg/Rec and they're 8-wire units; 3 YELLOW, GREEN, RED in a plug, then loose WHITE, GREEN (and depending upon vendor) loose BLACK. For the 550, I'd encourage a combo unit if indeed your stock unit(s) are bad. But to determine that, some troubleshooting is encouraged.

[cocinero196]

The unit you posted a link to has a GREEN not a BLUE. The GREEN is a ground. This is the correct unit and wiring for stock. The other unit you posted is a combo Reg/Rec and they're 8-wire units; 3 YELLOW, GREEN, RED in a plug, then loose WHITE, GREEN (and depending upon vendor) loose BLACK. For the 550, I'd encourage a combo unit if indeed your stock unit(s) are bad. But to determine that, some troubleshooting is encouraged.

Got it. Planning to get a Reg/Rec combo, undecided though if i'll get the $100 Rick's combo or throw the dice on a $20 caltric combo then get a Shorai LFX14A2-BS12 and a motogadget m-unit to free up the triangle space under the seat.  Will put all those in a tray under my seat, hope it all fits Did I miss anything? Will I still need anything from that oem clutter that i'll be removing if I follow my plan?

[calj737]

Yes, you'll need to retain your stock solenoid for the starter. Otherwise, nope, bin it. I encourage free air around the Reg/Rec though if you can find a means to pass some circulation across it to aide in cooling.

[cocinero196]

Yes, you'll need to retain your stock solenoid for the starter. Otherwise, nope, bin it. I encourage free air around the Reg/Rec though if you can find a means to pass some circulation across it to aide in cooling.

Roger that, cal there's a bigger "solenoid" looking part in the back of the starter solenoid, what is that? Can i ditch that too? I can also ditch the big rectangular regulator at the back when I get the reg/rec combo right?

[calj737]

I think you are referring to the Flasher Relay? You can ditch that as its built into the m-unit. Ditch the stock regulator and stock rectifier.

You mentioned in a different thread about toying with the idea of a $20 Reg/Rec combo unit. Then you mentioned a Shorai LFX. It would be my advice not to play with a cheap R/R if you are spending the money on an m-unit and a Shorai. The Shorai could be damaged by an improperly adjusted R/R. If so, thats $150+. Do yourself a favor, suck it up, and swallow the $100 for a Ricks combo unit (#10-100). We can find you other areas to save the $80 delta.

[cocinero196]

I think you are referring to the Flasher Relay? You can ditch that as its built into the m-unit. Ditch the stock regulator and stock rectifier.

You mentioned in a different thread about toying with the idea of a $20 Reg/Rec combo unit. Then you mentioned a Shorai LFX. It would be my advice not to play with a cheap R/R if you are spending the money on an m-unit and a Shorai. The Shorai could be damaged by an improperly adjusted R/R. If so, thats $150+. Do yourself a favor, suck it up, and swallow the $100 for a Ricks combo unit (#10-100). We can find you other areas to save the $80 delta.

Deep down inside I knew that was the right thing to do, thanks, I needed to hear that...well, "read" that in this case I can be a real cheapskate sometimes btw, I've also read that you've shared to other members a copy of your wiring diagram for the rick's rec/reg - Shorai - M-unit. I would love to have a copy of that also if you don't mind :-)

[scottly]

I think you are referring to the Flasher Relay? You can ditch that as its built into the m-unit. Ditch the stock regulator and stock rectifier.

You mentioned in a different thread about toying with the idea of a $20 Reg/Rec combo unit. Then you mentioned a Shorai LFX. It would be my advice not to play with a cheap R/R if you are spending the money on an m-unit and a Shorai. The Shorai could be damaged by an improperly adjusted R/R. If so, thats $150+. Do yourself a favor, suck it up, and swallow the $100 for a Ricks combo unit (#10-100). We can find you other areas to save the $80 delta.

Deep down inside I knew that was the right thing to do, thanks, I needed to hear that...well, "read" that in this case I can be a real cheapskate sometimes btw, I've also read that you've shared to other members a copy of your wiring diagram for the rick's rec/reg - Shorai - M-unit. I would love to have a copy of that also if you don't mind :-)

In my opinion, the M-unit is a waste of money.

[cocinero196]

I think you are referring to the Flasher Relay? You can ditch that as its built into the m-unit. Ditch the stock regulator and stock rectifier.
You mentioned in a different thread about toying with the idea of a $20 Reg/Rec combo unit. Then you mentioned a Shorai LFX. It would be my advice not to play with a cheap R/R if you are spending the money on an m-unit and a Shorai. The Shorai could be damaged by an improperly adjusted R/R. If so, thats $150+. Do yourself a favor, suck it up, and swallow the $100 for a Ricks combo unit (#10-100). We can find you other areas to save the $80 delta.

In my opinion, the M-unit is a waste of money.

To each his own, i guess
If you think it's a waste of money, what would be your alternative/solution then? If you were to clean up all that clutter in that triangle space below the seat.

[calj737]

I've also read that you've shared to other members a copy of your wiring diagram for the rick's rec/reg - Shorai - M-unit. I would love to have a copy of that also if you don't mind :-)

I have made wiring diagrams for members using MotoG products where they have either grafted the products into a stock bike, or completely re-wired their bikes. And I'd be happy to do so for you too if you opt to go that route. I have 2 I need to right now in fact, so it just takes a little depending upon what components you ultimately use for switches, gauges, lights, etc. Just let me know via PM.

"Scottly" doesn't like many of the newer electronic products as he believes (and I'm paraphrasing from many threads) "They're unnecessary as these bikes are so simple electrically" and "he doesn't want modern electronics running his 40 year old bike". Or something to that effect. So its more of a personal/ideology for him I gather. But as you said, to each their own.

There are heaps of advantages to them, yet they are not truly required. You can achieve what you want with relocating the electrics, but you'll need to amend your stock harness to support the new locations. If your stock harness is chewed up and hacked up, and you're switching from stock controls and gauges, then an m-unit can prove very wise, especially if you want smaller, simpler components. Your choice. Either way, be happy to help you with whichever route you choose.

[cocinero196]

I've also read that you've shared to other members a copy of your wiring diagram for the rick's rec/reg - Shorai - M-unit. I would love to have a copy of that also if you don't mind :-)

I have made wiring diagrams for members using MotoG products where they have either grafted the products into a stock bike, or completely re-wired their bikes. And I'd be happy to do so for you too if you opt to go that route. I have 2 I need to right now in fact, so it just takes a little depending upon what components you ultimately use for switches, gauges, lights, etc. Just let me know via PM.

"Scottly" doesn't like many of the newer electronic products as he believes (and I'm paraphrasing from many threads) "They're unnecessary as these bikes are so simple electrically" and "he doesn't want modern electronics running his 40 year old bike". Or something to that effect. So its more of a personal/ideology for him I gather. But as you said, to each their own.

There are heaps of advantages to them, yet they are not truly required. You can achieve what you want with relocating the electrics, but you'll need to amend your stock harness to support the new locations. If your stock harness is chewed up and hacked up, and you're switching from stock controls and gauges, then an m-unit can prove very wise, especially if you want smaller, simpler components. Your choice. Either way, be happy to help you with whichever route you choose.

Thanks, cal! Sent you a pm

[scottly]

"Scottly" doesn't like many of the newer electronic products as he believes (and I'm paraphrasing from many threads) "They're unnecessary as these bikes are so simple electrically" and "he doesn't want modern electronics running his 40 year old bike". Or something to that effect. So its more of a personal/ideology for him I gather. But as you said, to each their own.

Cal, I simply can't see any advantage to the M-unit. It's a high tech solution to a nonexistent problem, and an expensive one at that. I prefer the K.I.S.S. approach myself.

There is no dispute that the broad range of electronic features on these bikes creates a terrible likelihood for reliability problems.

[Airborne 82nd]

"Scottly" doesn't like many of the newer electronic products as he believes (and I'm paraphrasing from many threads) "They're unnecessary as these bikes are so simple electrically" and "he doesn't want modern electronics running his 40 year old bike". Or something to that effect. So its more of a personal/ideology for him I gather. But as you said, to each their own.

Cal, I simply can't see any advantage to the M-unit. It's a high tech solution to a nonexistent problem, and an expensive one at that. I prefer the K.I.S.S. approach myself.

I agree my bike is just a every day driver and does just fine for my needs. Just a personal preference plus I feel more comfortable fixing it if any thing were to go wrong at home or on the road. I do use a Hondaman box so I guess I use both old and new tech.

[calj737]

"Scottly" doesn't like many of the newer electronic products as he believes (and I'm paraphrasing from many threads) "They're unnecessary as these bikes are so simple electrically" and "he doesn't want modern electronics running his 40 year old bike". Or something to that effect. So its more of a personal/ideology for him I gather. But as you said, to each their own.

Cal, I simply can't see any advantage to the M-unit. It's a high tech solution to a nonexistent problem, and an expensive one at that. I prefer the K.I.S.S. approach myself.

There must be an echo in here?