Topic: Are these points still good? and how important is static timing?

[flybox1]

I am right at this same point with my CB550 and I do believe the shaft is bent.  Someone mentioned earlier that it could be straightened by double nutting it.  I am not familiar with this technique. How do I go about doing this.
thanks

double nutting it will remove it.
check the video i posed on pg 1 for checking for straightness

[yellowjacket]

OK.  I understand for removal.  If bent is it possible to straighten or should I purchase a new one?

[flybox1]

Try to straighten it, but know NOS are scarce.
Took me a month to find one.  Yamiya might have some in stock

[yellowjacket]

OK Thanks

[PeWe]

Yamiya has new bolt with o-ring
http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=246_21_250_55&products_id=2877

[mystic_1]

Nice, only 3000 Yen, too.

mystic_1

[PeWe]

As so often when looking for parts for the CB750, just pay and forget... David Silver can get it too, but not cheaper this time
 Part no. 30231-300-010
O-ring 91301-300-000  6X2.3mm

[ChopSticks]

Alright so I tried to set the static timing, but couldn't get the continuity meter to sound off at the F mark there was literally no more room to turn unless I took out one of the mounting bolts, same thing for 2-3 points... Does this mean I have to get a whole new points plate? Pics attached is the closest I could get

Also it's ridiculously difficult to set the static timing via the kick pedal idk how you guys do it without throwing tools across the room because its passed the marker

[grcamna2]

Do you know how many miles you have on those points? I can't see the fiber blocks in the pics but those may be worn too much.

[ChopSticks]

the tach and title say ~14k but it's a k4 frame with a F3 engine so who knows... how long does it usually take for the points to be worn?

[jonda500]

you could just file the offending slot longer with a chainsaw file?
John

[rotortiller]

Maybe your advancer is assembled incorrectly?

[grcamna2]

the tach and title say ~14k but it's a k4 frame with a F3 engine so who knows... how long does it usually take for the points to be worn?

What do the points fiber blocks look like when compared w/ a set of new points? when it takes too much 'slot' to adjust the timing on the advance adjusters that's when i start looking at the wear on the fiber blocks;new points are a good idea depending on how far gone your contacts and fiber blocks are worn.. the little fiber blocks wear fast when someone hasn't lubed them at the 3K regular full tune-up intervals.

[ChopSticks]

you could just file the offending slot longer with a chainsaw file?
John

What about the 2-3 stay plate?

Maybe you advancer is assembled incorrectly?

Anyway to check this without pulling the shaft?

[ChopSticks]

the tach and title say ~14k but it's a k4 frame with a F3 engine so who knows... how long does it usually take for the points to be worn?

What do the points fiber blocks look like when compared w/ a set of new points? when it takes too much 'slot' to adjust the timing on the advance adjusters that's when i start looking at the wear on the fiber blocks;new points are a good idea depending on how far gone your contacts and fiber blocks are worn.. the little fiber blocks wear fast when someone hasn't lubed them at the 3K regular full tune-up intervals.

Got a pic of the fiber blocks? Not sure compared to a new set of points since this is my first set ever... Would the easiest solution just to order new points? And if so should I just order condensers while I'm at it?

[grcamna2]

the tach and title say ~14k but it's a k4 frame with a F3 engine so who knows... how long does it usually take for the points to be worn?

What do the points fiber blocks look like when compared w/ a set of new points? when it takes too much 'slot' to adjust the timing on the advance adjusters that's when i start looking at the wear on the fiber blocks;new points are a good idea depending on how far gone your contacts and fiber blocks are worn.. the little fiber blocks wear fast when someone hasn't lubed them at the 3K regular full tune-up intervals.

Got a pic of the fiber blocks? Not sure compared to a new set of points since this is my first set ever... Would the easiest solution just to order new points? And if so should I just order condensers while I'm at it?

I would replace the points and condensers if they are old or if there is any doubt as to their integrity  You should still be able to get orig. Honda points(I like the ND brand the best)which are great along w/ Fresh condensers;don't use Daichi brand china-points ...

[ChopSticks]

I would replace the points and condensers if they are old or if there is any doubt as to their integrity  You should still be able to get orig. Honda points(I like the ND brand the best)which are great along w/ Fresh condensers;don't use Daichi brand china-points ...

Any idea if the points are the same for the F and K models? Never heard of ND brand, does it stand for something? could you provide a link if possible? eBay is only returning NOS brand

[grcamna2]

I would replace the points and condensers if they are old or if there is any doubt as to their integrity  You should still be able to get orig. Honda points(I like the ND brand the best)which are great along w/ Fresh condensers;don't use Daichi brand china-points ...

Any idea if the points are the same for the F and K models? Never heard of ND brand, does it stand form something? could you provide a link? eBay is only returning NOS brand

I go online at motogrid.com(or similar online parts ordering store)and look up the model/yr. of your Honda and look up ignition and the ones they have are good quality. They're online oem Honda,etc. parts dealers

[mystic_1]

ND = Nippondenso = Nippon Denso = Denso

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denso

mystic_1

[ChopSticks]

I would replace the points and condensers if they are old or if there is any doubt as to their integrity  You should still be able to get orig. Honda points(I like the ND brand the best)which are great along w/ Fresh condensers;don't use Daichi brand china-points ...

Any idea if the points are the same for the F and K models? Never heard of ND brand, does it stand form something? could you provide a link? eBay is only returning NOS brand

I go online at motogrid.com(or similar online parts ordering store)and look up the model/yr. of your Honda and look up ignition and the ones they have are good quality. They're online oem Honda,etc. parts dealers

Great thanks. A new plate assembly looks like its just a bit under $100. Is it worth just getting it brand new? Or would a used OEM one off eBay also suffice? If the latter is fine anything I should be looking for to make sure its still good?

[grcamna2]

I think for your first points/cond. replacement, a new oem Honda complete points plate(the one with the quality points on it,not Daichi)assembly which includes all the parts on it w/ new screws,etc. is a Very good choice. A used one off ebay will bring you right back to your same present situation 

[jonda500]

you could just file the offending slot longer with a chainsaw file?
John

What about the 2-3 stay plate?

Retarding 1.4 by turning the whole plate clockwise will retard 2.3 by the same amount also. Filing the slots is something I have had to do once in the past, it did work, I got my timing spot on! - of course if you're not financially challenged like me new oem parts would obviously be the better option.
Recently (before I read all the warnings not to) I replaced the points/condensers/&plate on two of my bikes with the super cheap Daichi brand ones and I have had no problems with them - I have done over 5000k's since then on one of them! - but I am not the gambling type, so I wont be buying them again after all I've read here!
John

[ChopSticks]

ND = Nippondenso = Nippon Denso = Denso

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denso

mystic_1

Thanks, does ND even make points anymore? All I'm finding is TEC/TOYO

[ChopSticks]

you could just file the offending slot longer with a chainsaw file?
John

What about the 2-3 stay plate?

Retarding 1.4 by turning the whole plate clockwise will retard 2.3 by the same amount also. Filing the slots is something I have had to do once in the past, it did work, I got my timing spot on! - of course if you're not financially challenged like me new oem parts would obviously be the better option.
Recently (before I read all the warnings not to) I replaced the points/condensers/&plate on two of my bikes with the super cheap Daichi brand ones and I have had no problems with them - I have done over 5000k's since then on one of them! - but I am not the gambling type, so I wont be buying them again after all I've read here!
John

Ah that makes sense, so I'd prob have to file both plates. Not necessarily financially challenged, but def going over budget so far.. Not to mention an OEM plate is almost as expensive as a dyna s, sucks cause I want to get the HMI which is making this an expensive part  . But on the same hand, filing two plates when I'm not exactly sure what perfect timing supposed to sound/feel like is probably not worth the headache at this point

[mystic_1]

IF you go this route, you'd only need to file the slots in the main plate, is what Jonda was saying.  Teh 2-3 subplate is mounted to the main plate, so rotating the main plate also rotates the 2-3 sub plate by the same amount.

mystic_1