Topic: Tank dent question

[eigenvector]

For all of those who have successfully removed dents from their tanks, I'm wondering if this can be improved?  Doesn't have to be perfect, just better than this - much better if possible.

This is the tank on my CB700SC, otherwise than the huge dent the tank is in extremely good condition.

PS.  my thought here was to use a C-clamp and a cedar 2x2 to push the dent out as it appears to be fairly uniform.

[70CB750]

I would take it to a body shop, they got the tools to deal with it.  Once they pop it back up, you can fill it up and sand it smooth.

My $0.02 only of course

[754]

 OK slept on it...but still cant think through what you meant with the 2x2 and C clamp...?     ?

[70CB750]

Probably to reach in the tank with one  end of the C clamp?

[eigenvector]

Well I'll chew it over then.

The dent as it is doesn't hurt anything, just looks crappy. 

[Retro Rocket]

I don't like bondo on a tank {at all actually}, so I'd also be inclined to look for another tank, there were lots of those bikes sold in the US so you shouldn't have too much trouble locating one...

[Stev-o]

+1 new tank.   Life's too short.

[Powderman]

A stud gun would be the proper tool to fix it, but as stated, would it end being cost effective? You might find a used tank that has good paint for cheaper than the fix. Or a used tank for less than the cost of repair and then add the cost of repaint.

[754]

 Run it as is, its got stories... new tanks got nothing...

[simon#42]

Run it as is, its got stories... new tanks got nothing...

probably not a very good story by the look of it frank

get another tank, as cal said the only way to fix that properly is to cut out the bottom and beat some sense into it

[Retro Rocket]

new tanks got nothing...

Bigger fuel capacity....?   

[Terry in Australia]

If you can weld, or get it welded afterwards, cut the bottom out an inch or so in from the seams with an angle grinder fitted with a super-thin cutting disc, and tap the dent out from the inside with a soft hammer and a padded dolly, then weld the bottom back in again.

It's not a real hard job, and if you're careful, most of the original paint can be saved. (obviously not the paint around the crease) You may need to use a tank sealant afterwards though, just to make sure there are no pinholes around the welds.

I've had a couple of tanks that were repaired in this fashion back in the day when new tanks were "unobtainium" due to cost, and I repaired my GS1000S tank like this. (a PO had smashed the top of the tank in with his helmet when he was having an argument with his wife, apparently..........) The good thing is, it can't really get any worse..........

[eigenvector]

In any case I have some time to ignore this and get to it later once I've decided on the best course of action.

These tanks are a little funny anyway - there's already a hole in the bottom for the fuel gauge - have no idea how large, might be tiny, plus it's not a saddle tank like the CB750/CB550 tanks - so direct access through the cap is also possible.

I know you all think the paint job is wonderful - it is, I think so, but some of that might be fooling you.  That shiny red portion is a ... sticker.  The actual tank is a solid gloss black, the sides have a sticker on them (red or blue).  And this tank is becoming difficult to find - tough enough that I am for once seriously taking your advice to either leave it alone or take it to a professional.  If I F' this one up I might be stuck with the consolation prize tank - a tank that looks like it took a ride in a cement mixer.

[strynboen]

as terry"s idea.
..cut it open..and eventuell cut the vorst/bend pieses aut..and weld new plate inn...job done....only vay to make /hold the capasity.
..bond vill take/steal more litters of fuel aut.(.you need full kapasity of fuel..)...just fill vater in the tank before cuttint..use the ultra thin disc..