Topic: Today, I screwed up -- broken head stud...

[drumstyx]

I won't get into how many ways I'm a complete idiot, but I just snapped a head stud. It was 1 of either 1 or 2 I wanted to actually replace, because it was rusty and didn't look too hot.

I've got about 3 or 4 mm above the crankcase. Is this something a machine shop can handle? Am I like...completely boned?

[CBGhia]

a machine shop could do it with no problem, but you might be able to get it.  Can you get some vicegrips on it?  Soak the holy #$%* out of it with PB Blaster and then crank on it a bit. 

[drumstyx]

a machine shop could do it with no problem, but you might be able to get it.  Can you get some vicegrips on it?  Soak the holy #$%* out of it with PB Blaster and then crank on it a bit.

Vice grips catch it a little bit, but I'm certain the torque will just strip the nub. That said I'm having really good luck with the other ones by just double nutting and taking it slow with heat, freeze-out, and liquid wrench. All the while, I go back to the nub and blast it the same as the other studs. I now have reasonably high hopes for the weld-a-nut-on option. Just need someone that can weld....might get my dad over or something maybe.

[drumstyx]

UPDATE: All but one of the rest came out easy, most I heated the surrounding area before even trying, just to be safe, but a few just came out without much force. There is one left that looks fine, but I guess maybe a bit seized. Been heating and liquid wrenching, plus only using the double-nut technique, as I suspect the fact that I used a stud puller made me able to put too much force on it.

[calj737]

Skip the cold, and stick with heat. And heat it until cherry red. Then whack it with a dead blow before attempting to twist it out. If upon twisting, it's still stuck, tweak it clockwise, then counter-clockwise. The heat will help it expand, the whack should un-seize it, the twist should turn it loose.

Even welding it, should produce enough heat to free it right up. The welded on nut should make it quite simple to turn out. Lots of folks have dealt with this even being experienced and careful.

[drumstyx]

Skip the cold, and stick with heat. And heat it until cherry red. Then whack it with a dead blow before attempting to twist it out. If upon twisting, it's still stuck, tweak it clockwise, then counter-clockwise. The heat will help it expand, the whack should un-seize it, the twist should turn it loose.

Even welding it, should produce enough heat to free it right up. The welded on nut should make it quite simple to turn out. Lots of folks have dealt with this even being experienced and careful.

Heat the stud itself? I've been focussing on heating the surrounding area, since I figured expanding the stud would bind it more. I'll give that a shot, particularly with the last full stud that won't give for me. Will a propane torch be enough?

[koendd]

I had one that snapped with nothing left sticking out of the cases.
Welded a nut on and got it out using an air impact wrench...

[PeWe]

My original studs were removed with double nuts. It was easier to make it move when i tightened it even more, just a short twist to get it loose. Then remove it.
Same procedure when remove my HD studs I mounted less then 2 years earlier. Again easier to tighten even more a short twist to hear it klick, then remove it.

[calj737]

Will a propane torch be enough?

Yes, that should do fine. Focus the heat on the base of the stud near the block. You can immediately add some penetrating oil after moving the heat away. But the "whack" jars the stud usually just enough to free it up. Not hard enough to damage the threads, but enough to wake 'er butt up!

[vortexuk]

http://hackaday.com/2015/08/03/dissolve-steel-drill-bits-in-alum-from-the-grocery/

Never done it but have seen a youtube video where a guy removes a stud from an ally head using this technique by using a ali can stuck around the stud and sealed with plasticine.