Author Topic: glassing technique  (Read 1583 times)

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Offline hymodyne

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glassing technique
« on: November 08, 2006, 06:10:01 AM »
I've built up a plug for a lower fairing for my 500, usinig spray foam, thick plastic sheeting and tape. I've sprayed the plug with a thick coat of primer, which should aid the release of the glass from the form. This first layer of glass and resin are showing all the imperfections of the foam core and the pllastic overlay; I'm Ok with that, I know this isn't the final layering. I got good results with this method on my seat, but there the foam was going to remain.

The question is this, I plan to put a single layer of resin and glass mat over the entire plug, showing imperfections all over. should I bondo (I'm using the stranded compound) after this first layer of glass, get a smooth consistent finish with bondo, and then apply my final layering of glass mat and resin, or do the reverse, lay two coats of glass and resin on top of one another, and then create a final surface suitable for painitng from the bondo?


glass             bondo     
bondo           glass
glass       OR   glass
plug              plug



anyone's suggestions based on their past experiences would be appreciated.

hym
"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline dusterdude

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2006, 01:41:48 PM »
if you want to coat with a product like bondo,use evercoat has a polyester coating that i cant think of the name at the moment,it comes in a green labeled plastic container.good stuff
mark
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Offline hymodyne

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2006, 03:55:56 AM »
update:

plastic sheeting and polyvinyl resin don't mix...after adhereing the glassmat to my sheeted and primed cover of my foam mold, the resin began to soften and warp the plastic, seeping through in places to contact the foam below. The foam held up pretty good, but wherever it had been in contact with the resin/hardner, it had hardened too, and lost some of its sponginess.

so now, I have to touch up the foam mold with more foam, trim it down again, and this time, I'm using aluminium tape over the whole mold.  I'll let you know how it comes out.

hym
"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline forwheeldrift

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2006, 09:59:00 AM »
maybe you can cover your foam mold with bondo, sand smooth,  and paint, i use WD-40 as a release agent works good

use as littel bondo as possible in your finished fairing
cause it will crack & chip in time even stranded kitty hair bondo.

yet another good use for WD-40

Offline merc2dogs

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #4 on: November 10, 2006, 04:21:44 PM »

  use a rairly heavy mat near the last coat, and a finer mat to finish, it doesn't print through as easily.

  Should actualy have the mold/core as smooth as possible.
 
 Test your foam with the resin alone, most of the time the resin doesn't effect the foam, for a permanant core/mold you want the resin to soak into the foam's pores for a mechanical bond, that way it will never 'fall' out. if you plan to remove the mold, you want it to be as smooth as possible and heavily waxed.   The reason your foam lost it's sponginess is because the resin impregnated the foam, and bonded to it, which if you want it as a permanant core is what it should do.  (spray foam is very porous)
 
    If you want it as a mold where you pop off the finished project, you want to coat the foam with something like plaster, bondo, or tons of varnish coats, wax it up good, then lay your fiberglass over that. when you get  all the layers you want on it,  work the fiberglass off with wooden pry bars etc.

  If you use styrofoam and carve it to shape,  apply a coat of plaster of paris to that, sand smooth and varnish/wax etc, then lay the fiberglass on it. use gasoline to dissolve the foam, then a rubber hammer to break up the plaster and pop it loose by smacking the front of the fiberglass, then take a putty knife and gring it so it's rounded instead of square and scrape off whatever didn't pop off.
 
 if you want the fiberglass to lay down as smooth as possible, lay it out on the mold dry, and stretch or cut any wrinkles out, cutting it in the best shape to lay as flast as possible first,   then use "T" headed straight pins from a fabric store and pin the glass in place, then apply the resin to the cloth, when it just starts to set, pull the pins out,  that avoids lumps from thick cloth folds and wrinkles, and makes it a LOT easier to start your first couple layers, after them, if you used the righ laminating resin, the old coats will still be tacky and hold the next layers in place untill set, laminating resin doesn't totaly dry in air for a LONG time, they sell a wax to mix in on your final layer to sheild it from the air so it will fully cure. .
 
 Bondo is polyester resin with fillers mixed in, fiberglass is polyester resin  (cheaper) or an epoxy base (not cheap but much stronger than poly) Gel coat is polyester resin mixed with talc (and dye when colored)  check west marine's website, they have a lot of info on fiberglass through links etc (have a 29ft sailboat, so have become pretty familiar with west marine and boaters world etc.)

 
ken
 

Offline hymodyne

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2006, 08:06:54 AM »
ah, a fellow sailor, (cape dory 22)

I've got it almost done. actually, I have to go back and replace a piece I cut off for a better fit to the upper fairing.

Process:

re-applied foam in areas that had become saturated and shrunk in size, cut foam mold  back to desired size. sanded  foam with 100, then 220 grit paper on a jitterbug sander, tack clothed the foam mold.

attached heavy duty aluminium foil to the whole lower fiaring with strips of aluminium tape, forcing the foil to crease and create blisters for points cover and dyno.  put glass mat down in three pieces with the bike now upside down; bottom piece over belly, two side pieces. attached to foil with spray adhesive. made plenty of cuts all around so that the glass pieces would adhere properly to the foil covered form.

next day, i started with the bike upside down, putting resin and hardner on the belly glass, then turned the bike twice, to glass each side on a plane parallel with the floor. when finished, I rough sanded all sides and wiped down with acetone. next I put a 1/4 inch layer of bondo over the whole lower fairing, and sanded it to as close to finished look as I could. there's an imperfection in the symmetry of the opening for the jugs and oil cooler, but by cutting the upper part of the glass bondo skin, I will be able to re-attach it and continue.

I test fitted the half fairing to the lower fairing, marking on the lower where it will mate to the bottom portion of the upper  fairing. where the two pieces will meet, I'll add a 2" flange to the uppermost portion of the lower fairing and drill so this will be the joining point on each side for the two fairing pieces. I'll test fit the two fairings together bolting them like they will be on the finished project.

when I get the fit I want, I will finish sand the lower fairing and prep for a final coat of aircraft grade woven fiberglass cloth, which I'll apply to the bondo covered skin.

The foil makes a good release barrier I've discovered, so after marking the center of the bellypan and cutting the whole lower fairing in half, I'll split them and move on to anchoring fasteners and mounting points on the inside of each fariing half.

I hope to use stainless steel mesh like i've seen on the grilles of some imported cars as a frontspiece/rock barrier for the fins and oilcooler.
I have 3/4 inch wide 1/8 thick bar steel to cut for use as internal fairing supports as well as muffler supports.

I'll post a pic when the dusst settles.

hym
"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline merc2dogs

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #6 on: November 11, 2006, 02:11:27 PM »

 Very nice boat, the cape dory 22, same designer as my pearson triton, The man realy knew his boats.

 Sounds like you have a grip on it.
 Look forward to seeing the finished product!

 

Ken.

   

Offline Ernie

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Re: glassing technique
« Reply #7 on: November 11, 2006, 04:37:17 PM »
I allways use epoxy resin.......might be worth a try on your project  :)
Its all happening !
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